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I've been running 0/40 in everything for years, year-round. block heater failures are usually just the plug or cord, not usually the heating iron... North western Canadian prairies..

No. Not even close. Treating a farm tractor like a piece of industrial dirt/logging equipment will get you that result. Every time. Though I will say I noticed additional factory steel welded (small patches or gussets on both sides) on the px9020 frame vs the DK90 frame right where a stress...

Obvious abuse. Using a little farm tractor as a piece of heavy equipment. That grapple is ridiculous mounted on that loader/tractor. Anyway, 30 pages of discussion, phew!

You did it the hard way. Simply shut the tractor off. Wiggle the remote lever that you are hooked into a few times stop-to-stop. (Once back and forth probably does it)..anyway, just flop the lever back and forth a bit, voila! Pressure released/equalized. Hook-up as usual..then restart tractor.

That loader on the Branson is exactly the same loader as on the DK90. Good loader. No issues whatsoever. OP is going about his mod ideas all the wrong way, imo. modify the bucket and the spear if need be. Don't screw around with a well designed loader. Duh.

My dk90 OEM bucket rolls back way further and still hangs vertical to past vertical when dumping/shaking. My HLA double tine bale fork will roll back adequately to go down pretty steep hills. When the bale is picked up near the very bottom and the loader kept as low as possible, I could go...

Lol. well it's a word here, and I didn't invent it so idk..

Rammy means operating with undo care and attention. expecting that something can take abuse over and above reasonability

I've had a DK90 since new in 2013. it's my primary chore tractor and haying tractor. There's about 2400 hours on it now. good machine the only known issue that I'm aware of is that the tie-rod ends were breaking. Mine didn't, but I know of a rammy guy in Saskatchewan that broke two. The part...

DK90 2400hrs+ no issues. Runs better than new.

Good to know that Kioti glass is reasonably priced. I would have expected a lot more.

Yes, you need a cutting edge. The stock bucket does not even have a proper, replaceable "cutting edge". Unless you want to ruin the edge of your bucket, that is. The true cutting edge also goes a long way to stiffening the bucket to prevent bowing of the bottom edge. ps, welded is best, but...

I's and O's are usually eliminated from most registries.

"N" is 2013. Just a confirmation of that table.

My Kioti has the latch. My tractor never sits long enough to worry about it, but the latch will be handy if it ever does.

Dont know how to remove the heat exchanger, but high pressure air can bend the fins to smitherenes. Just so you know. I prefer to use low pressure water from a garden hose with a smaller, more flexible hose on the end. If you can use hot, soapy water, then that is ideal, but a pressure washer...

Normal. Ok, that seems slightly sloppy, but I wouldn't worry about it. No issue.

It's best to blow air into the valves at maximum pressure to clear them before letting air out, imo. Calcium rots the valves eventually. This minimizes calcium from contaminating the sealing surface of the valves. I also blow clean water into the valves as the last procedure. Lots of times the...

I was more than pleasantly surprised when I saw my first Kioti. They are very nice, well thought-out machines. You should really find a lot to look around in. You'll likely feel the same.

Most likely the freeplay was not correct

Sounds like a bargain to me. is that the cast-centre rears? if you are going to change wheels and you are doing tillage there's no reason to not get the cast rears. And fill the rears. And possibly even front weights... anyway, good day to you!

Well there you go. like I said, my Kioti wheels are Chinese and exactly like Kubotas. (Not measured tho..) Get the cast-centres... You may find some at a wreckers?

Just curious; why do you think you need r1's? what you are proposing sounds like a very expensive proposition you will have to properly match the fronts and rears (to prevent undo drivetrain strain), so you probably have to buy all 4 new wheels/tires my DK90 has exactly the same wheels as...

I got one at the local Princess Auto up here in Canada. They might be similar to your Harbour Freight?? Anyway, it wasn't a kit per-se, but all the parts were available off the shelf to make a tidy install for my DK90. I bought a cat1 ram and used bronze bushings to adapt my cat2 setup.Every...

There is absolutely no reason whatsoever to NOT have a block-heater. Just cause it WILL start doesn't mean it's good for it. "0" weight oil is a good idea too. Maybe even more important than a block heater...

My dk90 has that lever. sorry no pic, but there's gotta pics on the net somewhere, is it's a "feature"

I have often wondered the same thing about my DK90 almost anything mounted to those would interfere with the back window opening. Kioti's designers are smarter than that. certainly one use for those is to hoist the cab.

Try Wix. they are listing hydraulic filters for many Kiotis now.

Rumour has it that there will be a 115hp Kioti coming... power reverser; de-clutch button and hi-lo on the shifter. The perfect haying tractor. It should run most modern haying equipment (except the really high capacity stuff). unfortunately it will have a tier 4 Doosan engine. Which is...

Hi all! First post here for me :) I am seriously considering a DK90 for the farm chore tractor (haying, feeding, etc). This would be a 20hp downsize for me. I am currently running a Deutz 7110 for this purpose. At 9000 hrs, it is getting tired and I need to "semi-retire" it, LOL. Do these...