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Check out WD40. Often works well. I lay on a paper towel and wet it with WD and give it 10-15m to soak.

I use an 8 or 12 foot 4x4 endwise as a battering ram to ram it from the back side. Usually successful within 3 rotationally spaced hits. Treated ones are better because they are heavier.

That tractor has separate pedals for forward and reverse, right? Sounds like something slipped loose on the forward pedal. Check the pedal linkage.

If you find that fuel stoppage happening again in the tank, try a small screw turned very gently up thru the nipple. Only up 1/4 to 1/2" past where the screw tip enters the tank - I think there is a protective "baffle" up there meant to discourage clogs .. wouldnt want to damage that. When in...

I would make it rather than pay that if I had a sample piece to go from. But Iv got all the stuff + experience on hand to do it. I doubt the OP does, so for him it would be out of the question. Even for us, w/o a good drawing you are familiar with, or the sample, or (preferably) both, it would...

No, but what difference could that make in the case of a person paying, maybe $100, for a part he could make in a hour, only if he had pertinent experience, prepaid overhead, and time?

Grinding : Lathe tools for groove and chamfer. Boring : Counterbore with chamfer. Charts : Research. Expensive: Overhead - How much does a CNC machine with automated accoutrements cost? Even a good standard lathe is $thousands from china. Time : Yeah I could too, starting from a...

Lots of dimensions missing. Need skill in grinding tools. Boring. Knowledge of gland sizing and compression. IOW, experience.

Ya-ay! Even crazy prices are usually cheaper than making it yourself. Theres often a whole lotta overhead needed, + knowledge, skill, and time. If you got that, copying a simple sample part can be pretty easy.

Because Progress Integrated over Time = Zero. We are currently well into the downswing of the sine wave. But since Nimco is American maybe theres hope. Call their corporate office, 262-8840950. You ought to be able to shame them into helping you. That is IF you can reach a pertinent human.

Hi. The shaft that runs the fan on the old Ls is driven from a flex plate on the water pump pulley. The shaft extends forward about 8" to a bearing and the fan. That bearing on my L3450 is shot. Does anybody have that bearing number?? I tried to buy from kubota but the bearing is no longer...

Youre right. A roll pin is a really bad choice for a torque limiter for several reasons; > it is an open section with spring temper (very hard), > it undergoes significant continuously varying torque in either direction actively working the section, > correct orientation of the pin relative to...

Providing a container sufficient for someone to give you over 100 million 1$ bills is opportunistic indeed.

Greedy! ;)

May be a spot of water down by the main jet. Rev it up and jam the choke on a time or two. That can suck the water through

We have a Samurai Sabre. Similar, low gpm. You dont want it running fast as it can push flexible branches ahead of it. Nice that the one you show will tilt. If you have an HST that will travel ok at low rpm that would be best. Speed and steering finesse is good. Easy to damage the bar with a...

Growth of squirm losses within the contact patch.

Nah. Mine quit straining when I turned the fuel up a bit

I had the same type of problem on mine when I bought it. I found plastic shavings and "crap" in the fuel line fitting at the filter AND at least one debris in the tank intermittently blocking the nipple output. I lucked out and got the piece out of the tank by grafting in a 1/4 turn petcock at...

If you have a bushog put it on semi permanent. Theres 600#+ and leverage. Add some weight on top of deck when you need it. Weight on the 3ph has no effect on lift capacity of the loader -- just gives stability and eases loading on front end components.

You may want to take a look at Carlisle Versa Turfs, mix or match to get desired front lead. Im having trouble seeing rolling circumference specs on a wide selection of tires. You almost are stuck at buy em and try em.

Only you can be sure of this by the indications you get. But I would favor feathering the PTO clutch starting at the 1300 RPM free speed, letting the engine lug down and the mower spin up for about a second, and then just getting off the clutch. It would probably nearly stall as the engine fully...

McCarr #1190K35. -- I have two. Fairly low volume per stroke. Trouble free. If you have an extremely strong grip you can bend the handle on a plugged nipple.

Not having a grease gun with a sock on it.

:sick: Sad situation. That is like flood damage. Good pics of the t/o. I was able to make a tool to regrease the t/o in our L3450 through that breather port. It was dry and you could hear it spin. Glad you are able to move the tractor. -- Not that it will rejuvenate it, but notice that you...

All good, but full descriptive info, several posts back, indicates that the bearing wont slide as needed to operate the pressure plate. The clutch pedal cannot be depressed. The lever in pic 6560 will not move. The clutch plate may be stuck to the flywheel some too, but our actuation inputs are...

Save as buck making it. Get a million$ selling parts and working on it.

Your pushing on the pedal would have been good to know upfront, and that it wouldnt move. You mentioned back a ways that it grinds when you try to put in gear, so you have been able to start it. My 2550 requires the clutch pushed all the way in to be able to crank it. -- Good that you can crank...

Yes, Thanks for the follow through. I think youre right. The t/o bearing will not slide on its pilot stub. I wonder how hard it is stuck. Do you have a PTO generator or something you could run to make the tractor warm up? Sometimes a thermal cycle can do wonders, especially when something isnt...

The borescope is a good idea if you need to visualize in the breather port. You can actually look in but you need to get light inside so you have the illumination only where needed. Side reflected light is confusing. Once you get the lay of it with a bore light youll be able to just use a pen...

Yes. Heavy implements will crash to the ground if you dont set it to damp their fall. Of course you can also lock the implement from falling from a position you choose -- if you raise it from there though it will assume the new position. Some care is needed due this as you adjust damping on a...

In image 6560 the lever shown to the left of the clutch pedal should be moved forward by the linkage element when you press the pedal.-- Does that happen?-- That levers motion rotates the shaft it is welded to, entering the case behind the lever, and operates the the throwout. Can you depress...

Best Iv found. Slick. Sticks. Does not evaporate. Amazon.com

Overnight pretty much. Fumes.

Clothe your grease gun in an old cotton sock. Change as needed.

Hurry. A stuck clutch can be fixed from outside usually. But the longer it sits the more tenacious it sticks. --- Im doing hay right now but Ill take a hard look at the suspected area on my L2550 tonite.

From memory, I think that shaft only acts as a pivot for the clutch pedal and the righthand split brake pedal. The shaft is only rotated by the left split brake pedal. Linkage handles getting the pedal motions to their respective places. I think you have a stuck clutch - much better news than a...

I cannot decipher your post. Does the clutch pedal move normally? What doesnt? Does the linkage move?

Not sure the name, but it is used for 3 point hitch ground engagement control. It senses compression on the top link and makes adjustment to lift arm position in response. The lever sets sensitivity and intensity of response. OOPS. Wrong lever. I think economy setting for the little one

Torch.

The issue is due diligence by the field owner. The field should be kept short by frequent mowing and perhaps tedding until you till. It should be the owners problem to work around the preparation challenges, not yours.

Yes. I noted that the subject of covering the full tire track came up though. This introduces a problem with cut of the grass flattened on the righthand side. Bushog "suction" is not normally sufficient to bring this back up enough to get a full cut. You could say that the situation really sux!

Best quality cutting I ever got with a bushog was 5' on a JD2010 tricycle. The hog didnt cover any wheel but the front. Mashed grass always stood back up before you came around again.

Hmm. I have a Woods HC-60 that came used "like new" with a 1/2" Gr5 shearbolt. We have sheared 2 of them. -- Not myself. I only did the replacing. The shank crosses the 2nd shearline comfortably. I dont know the circumstances that sheared them. Im surprised that much torque can be applied to 5'...

Im thinking eshered is a convoluted typo of sheared. Probably AI involved.

Every double shear situation calls for having the bolt shank across both shear lines.

True. But no danger with the instructions you gave. Just the chance of interpreting very high ohms as a fault in this low voltage condition.

Maybe the original is metric; 75 or 76mm?

Dont use one of the sensitive/hi ohm scales. A resistance of ~10K or so, while truly a resistance, should be viewed as an open circuit/infinite in this situation.

Then there is unwanted height added to a top heavy item. McCarr has some ~2" that you only lower to contact when you want to roll. Ive had no problem just sweeping/blowing the floor before moving.

Yeah, you only get one brief use from the rubber plunger unless you disassemble and clean and silicone grease it quick; even then a problem. I have saved all mine, and on several been able to substitute an oring. More chemical resistant AND replaceable.

At night, take a big hypo with 1 or 2 oz gas. Hold your breath. Insert needle in the top of the nest and inject. Leave. Go as far away as you can before you breathe. There are sentries. They can follow a CO2 trail. The nest will die. Only the sentries will survive and theyll leave.

It really doesnt take more than a few months in the summer to come real close to screwing up the carb if you leave the gas on. I came back to my mower after such and it wouldnt start. Drained the bowl and dumped it on concrete. It smelled like lacquer; couldnt light it with a propane torch. Ran...

Linkage from the actuator pedal. Maybe bent or disconnected?

we dont know that it has an alternator. May be just a dynamo coil behind the flywheel, and a single inline diode, somewhere, providing unregulated half wave charging. This component could be whats failing.

Particularly necessary in aluminum heads. The Al/Fe differential expansion "works" the joint. A little piece of aluminum cracks loose from fatigue and follows the plug out, mashing and galling as it goes. Copper bearing antiseize is the best insurance I know of to prevent any Al from bonding to...

Yes.

Thats aluminum right? Take a new or unaffected plug and see if it will thread in by hand at least a thread or two. If you get resistance wiggle it a little and see if that will allow a good start and/or a little more progress. If you are successful in getting a couple turns by hand it is...

https://www.forneyind.com/site/PDPs/PDPs/D-1006E-to-D-1062E-Engine-Driven-Generators.pdf This may be a ~ 100 yr old engine. Go down thru the link pdf and see if you recognize anything. Wisconsin manual starts around page 5. We need a historical Wisconsin guru!

Check the voltage at the battery terminals while running above idle. It should be as I described above. If not we will explore further.

--- or the new battery was not well charged to start with. After running the machine for awhile with the new battery in, would it restart ok? Are you monitoring Voltage during running? It should go up to 12.8 nearly right away and then climb into the 13s, even eventually go as high as Lo/mid 14s...

Pls clarify.-- The new and fully charged battery cranks the engine weakly??

Math.

Electro magnetic clutch. -- That probably means a solenoid. This solenoid may have 2 coils; a pull in, and a hold. Both work to move the mechanism but one shuts off afterward. The "hold" coil draws little current. Maybe youre not getting full movement, leaving BOTH coils activated. The switch is...

If jinma will not supply the part, get the material spec, or a reason in writing why not, before you make one. Otherwise, throwing away the tractor may be the only option.

Simple enough if you attach a dremel to the toolpost and grind it.

Yup. The problem is fatigue at the stress riser in the thread root. - The longer bolt should do it.

I dont think he has ever sheared the longer bolt he put in that has a shank spanning both shear points. ???

That kind of stabilizer is easily damaged if not adjusted as a pair such that neither ever supports a compression load. Once youve put an implement on get to a level area before you put the adjustment pins in. Now, to start, assure that each lift arm ball is outward against the linchpin on its...

OK. - I dont seem to wax mine enough to notice before they are lost naturally somehow.

Throw away society.

Put several bags of the mulch on the bushog and youll be good to go. Filled tires (ballast) is good, but counterweight, carried low, behind the axle is more effective when using the loader.

Ya-ay-y-y! I like your rig up. Glad to be of help.

If you were there you could say that, but a single pic, slightly off axis with bucket doing what?, could steer you wrong. Loaders on the tractor they are designed for arent easy to tweak. My wife managed, taking off in 3rd downhill on the 7520 with forks parked straight down in the ground. Iv...

Im going to guess, that if you arranged to pull the forward part of each front tire toward each other the wheels would come into alignment gradually by hydraulic leakage through the steering circuit. Im talking engine OFF and a moderate pull force of 2 or 3 hundred pounds with a come along.

I dont have a CK30 so I would need pics to diagnose. Cant you block the steered wheel in a position and then move the free wheel to match it? ... Then afterward fine adjust.

I have gotten sinus infection at times I was using chemicals - particularly if there was also some airborne particulate associated. Never from just dust. Your chemical link may be real. I have found that Bayberry Bark tea is highly effective to the point that antibiotics are unneeded. You snort...

What I have always done is use an old JD 127 5ft bushog I have. Driven by 45ptohp it does a pretty good job chomping up 10' diameter man hand assembled piles almost instantly. Material up to 3" or reconsolidate and go again for bigger stuff. No stump jumper on this old mower, just a 40" bar with...

Unless you unfortunately happen to use #620, which is strong up to 232C. This formulation is one of the strongest to start with, and gets stronger as it ages at mild heat. Youll be melting seals and blueing bearings to get this one off. -- #638 would be a good choice. Highest strength but...

Bad connection somewhere. Battery terminals, ground, etc. Probably corrosion at the ground where your negative cable bolts to the chassis. Also check fuses and then the fusible link.

A bucket moves forward as it lifts for the 1st foot or so. If youre pushing it makes it much harder to lift.

This suggests that the input shaft is wallowed to a "bellmouth" and the bolt is continually flexing at the root of the bell ... or-r the thread being in the stressed region is causing a similar problem favoring fatigue failure. From pics I see you are only getting single shear. Then I presume...

Are you aware of the "valve guide migration" problem that many B&S engines have shown? Essentially the guides - usually exhaust - move toward the rocker arms, eventually interfering with the ability to fully open the valve. Many clever fixes have been devised posted online. But you will have to...

During the intake and compression of a gas engine the atomized intake mixture evaporates cooling everything it touches; valves, piston, and the combustion chamber. A leaner charge means less cooling. Further, when the burn happens it burns slower and doesnt complete before the ex valve opens...

Should be fine as long as it doesnt ever end up straight in. Youll have to free that instance by hand. I dont think you need to take any special remedial action other than assuring the joint isnt caked with debris. A little wear should ease the pinch over a short time in normal bushog type use...

Full power mowing work, with some lugging down. Also a plugging fuel filter slow to be identified. It was running fine and smooth when I heard such a clatter. One of the suspension struts (leftward) holding the weight fatigued and broke right at the point it was bolted to the weight. I unbolted...

My weight broke off its mounts early. The tractor works fine without it. Over 2Khrs at this point.

Ive bought by the piece from McCarr. If you only need 2 or 3 its not bad. Except shipping ~$12 on small order.

I think its a bearing cage gone bad and the balls get bunched up when it sits. I am surprised it totally clears up when you get it to rotate. :confused:

Those jaws might be reversible, with serrated on other side. Mine are. Have you checked?

Youre right. I missed that in the pics, 1st pic. I wonder what the thread size is.

I think that is an O Ring Face Seal fitting. You could go to a JIC hose and adapt the ends with jic to orfs.

Same for my 8". The Yosts are ductile iron and have a deep throat and good hard sharp replaceable jaws and pipe jaws. Nice action. Huge clamping range. Strong enough that you dont have to baby it, but I wouldnt be waling directly on it with a two handed hammer or using long pry bars or...

Have you tried BoeShield T-9? Leaves a light wax residue.

If youre going to hit it use a "battering ram" made from a 4x4 or 6x6. Give it a good bump.

Sure could be. Turn it up a bit.

Yes. That backtip resultant (a torque) is transmitted by Tension and Compression in the 3ph links acting on the tractor body at their forward ball positions. The supported cantilevered load (implement) only pushes downward on the hydraulics with its weight, but if that weight is centered far...

Thatll do it to get the fractional change at the end lift point. But to find the actual lift force you have to start with the actual lift force available at the pins. The lift spec is commonly given at 24" rearward from the pins and is conservative to boot.

Im not familiar, but the term prying makes me think of leverage, which doesnt fit well. A parallelogram linkage acts to transmit and use an available force undiminished for a significant distance. It does this by action reaction of forces on its active geometry. These forces stem from the...

Check out four bar linkage. Lift force does not diminish beyond the articulation point. This arrangement is widely used; lab scales, lift gates, suspensions etc. Even tractor 3ph ... although here, not dimensioned optimally for the full effect.

Engine mounting bolts? Blades loose?

Wrong.

Excellent for slow leaks everywhere. Rim, bead, sidewall porosity, tread - it will find it. Seems a true long term fix.

Hi rScotty Unfortunately the 3pt is not a perfect //ogram linkage so the difference between simple leverage and the result from its articulated action is not as clear. Its there though. > Heres an experiential puzzle that will leave you scratching your head 'til you get it. -- Try lifting a...

Yes. The 3ph is essentially an imperfect four bar linkage. When perfect this lifts a weight without pivoting it. Distance of the weight outward from the lifting force is immaterial except its effect on backtip. Yours still had >850 lb at the boompole lift point. Something is wrong now. That...

(y) Impressed at the amount of ingenuity wasted in subsequent posts magnifying the difficulty or posing the impossibility of this ploy.

Good. They will have enough direct knowledge to talk you through. That solenoid likely is to operate a valve to stop fuel delivery when you want to cut the engine off. Good luck! - Pls post back when resolved.

That setup is alien to me. Are the fuel lines rubber- you can pull off the nipple or reconnect at will? If so pull off the line leaving the big filter. Does fuel flow? Turn on ignition to run the "pump". Any change?

Understood. The problem is I dont know your machine. I do have some kubotas but no reason to think theyre all the same. Mine have the tank at higher level than the filter and fuel flows by gravity through the filter to a lift pump. Can you ID the fuel line going tank to filter? If so disconnect...

Sure sounds like a fuel problem. Could be a blockage in the tank, or the filter, or water. See if the line from the tank to the filter flows well.

That sounds good. Thats a 12v/3or2 = 4 to 6A. You should get a visible spark.

The GP draw should be a few amps so a spark should be visible pretty easy IF you get out of the dazzling sunlight. The easiest thing would be to wait for twilight when you have just enough light to see what youre doing. Remember to have the key in the proper position and "strike" the wire across...

Throat depth may be important to you.

I have the 880-D2 (8")Yost. Used it since 2016. Good hard reversible jaws and reversible movement. I like the large flat work surface presented when the jaws are closed...

You need to find out if the GPs are taking current. Can you disconnect the wire feeding them and see if it sparks when you touch it back. The GPs may be burnt out.

Just tighten it up extremely tight! It wont move. It wont loosen.

Me too. As for shipping, I havent paid enough attention. I usually order about $100 worth or up. Maybe $26 is sort of a minimum S/H charge, and it just edges up slowly from there?

Im not sure I have a full picture. What has the NPT?

How bout getting the M14x1.5 - JIC and then to SC hose and dont look back?

Have you looked into Surplus Center? They have pre made JIC hoses with choice of nominal or 1+ end connections. Also lots of adapters to choose from. Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

If no cracks yet you can probably get away with adequate clamping to "freeze" the joint. -- The good bolts and washers, TIGHT, will do that.

Joint movement from under tightened bolts. Replace w/Gr8 bolts and Gr8 washers. Tighten to FULL bolt spec. -- Depending on size, probably 200ft-lb or more.

Around 40%. Certainly enuf to clear the shelves.

Is the motor getting hot? Does it have a thermal switch that perhaps auto resets? Check input voltage while running.

Check with Hercules Hydraulics.

Similar to the symptoms I had with my BX1500. The mechanic said it was a failure in the bearing cradle that varies the displacement of the hyd drive pump as you push the go pedal. For me it was 6/6 replace trans. For your much larger trans I think it would be replace the internal failed component.

Yeah. I have one. As I recall those are 1/2" Gr5 bolts. After failure I replaced mine with Gr8 tightened to full Gr8 torque spec. Its been trouble free since.

The force at the balls on the lift arms, as opposed to lift links, is what is important. The inward/outward force of the cantilevered implement is important also, and constant with a //ogram. No real point in resolving it into a Torque. It all just resolves into forces at angles and the...

[[[ What does this mean?]]] [No.]

No. The // system is instantly reactive to angle changes ensuring that the sum of all forces in the articulated linkage remains the implements weight acting downward on the lift arm balls. The effect is driven by the angles of the elements and the forces of the cantilevered weight. -- Using the...

Plus, in all cases of 3ph implement use, the ball ends are connected and articulate on a vertical plane established by the implement. The plane sees tensive or compressive loads when the // form moves above or below its neutral/horizontal position.

Depends on the synthetic line. Spectra Fiber is extremely strong and very little stretch.

I though it might be interesting to link a grope we did on this a dozen or so yrs ago. Different perspectives may help things click with everybody. Conversion Factor for 3PH load capacity

Incidental contact maybe.

Your table finger is the load/lift point. The COM of the container/load extends out beyond this lift point. That extension is a lever that must be overcome by pulling on the top to lift COM. Your top finger works on a different lever (container height). So the pull, tension, there will be...

Could you just make a collared bushing from Gr8 steel to hold the 5/16 centered?

Can you clamp and use the e track as a guide pattern?

Interesting. Were they constructed equally, or did the proto have a heavier throat?

They always spread. The best "spring" back. The elastic modulus of steel is what it is; good steels or bad. The good will just endure more distortion, building higher force before it bends.

Reading your post gave me an idea. Open ended wrenches at extremis on a hex tend to spread enough to start rounding the nut corners and that small "slippage" quickly worsens the situation as more torque is applied. I think that a small pre mod to the wrench end will allow adding impact torque...

Looking at TerryR diagram you can see that the top link supports no load - only tension. When above or below the position shown the vertical line at front of implement comes into play causing forces to interact on all links because of the cantilevered weight of the implement COM. The sum of...

Also note that this shows a true 4 bar system. The 1000# lift/holding force would be the only unchanging value as the load was moved in or out.

The lift arms support all the weight. The top link tension and active angle relation during lift causes the implement to rise almost straight up rather than rotating with the lift arms. This amounts to an imperfect parallelogram lift system allowing a long implement close to the limit of lift...

There is a product called Liquid Electrical Tape.

Go hotter without boil off yes. But OP isnt reporting losing any coolant. Water moves the heat best up til it cant stay bubble free at system pressure.

Either one is fuel delivery when you think about it. Is the lift pump part of, or intimate with, the injector pump?

An overheated injector pump can do this. The reason I know is that my L3450 has a separate output from the bottom tank on the radiator leading directly through the pump. The tractor developed a symptom of losing power and missing when the temp registered about 2/3scale and up. Turns out the...

Yipes! Guy was lucky to only have some extra work, no injury. Must have been very porous soil to have the oxygen to support such a fast burn/explosion.

No, unless pure spectacle is your aim. The fire will burn off the fumes and only a few jackets. An ounce worth of fumes will virtually exterminate a nest.

How frustrating. There are a lot of stories on 8N spark problems, but no notable solution Ive been able to dig up. I wonder If the igniton switches go flakey. ... There must be some key common issue that eludes. Good luck.

How frustrating. There are a lot of stories on 8N spark problems, but no notable solution Ive been able to dig up. I wonder If the igniton switches go flakey. ... There must be some key common issue that eludes. Good luck with it, and your knee.

Did you ever change out for a new distributor cap?

Have you replaced the distributor cap? If it spits and pops any the cap is probably it.

Did you get your 8N running ok?

Save your money - you only need a couple oz of gas. Take some plastic and a rim out there at night. Slap the plastic over the nest and plop the rim on top. Inject the gas through a small hole in the plastic. The fumes will kill them overnight.

Overfilled?

Pats go on the lift arms only. This means the implement governs the arm spacing. The lift arms can slip off the implement pins unless a lynch pin is used. Normally, with just the lift arms, the ball end encircles the implement pin, thus ensuring the lynch pin is stressed evenly. With Pats the...

Looks like youre safe.😌

Im guessing this is a high profit item. The question: "Does its quality justify it?"

I believe its going to turn out to be the distributor cap though. Pops and spits are a symptom of sparks getting to the wrong time/place.

I have yet to see any valid reason for having a PTO brake. I find them more problem than benefit. Once destroyed what would be the problem?

Old ones get fine internal cracks, absorb moisture. May be ok cold but warmth brings out the moisture, and sparks from the rotor start following the cracks every which way. The hint is the spitting and popping. Id get a new rotor too if you didnt already.

In that case I think it is the distributor cap.

Have you replaced the condenser?

I dont have tym, but have experienced the "knock" on my Mahindra 7520 when in very tight turns while in 4WD. The limited slip front diff causes it. Since, I think, you said yours did it 4wd or not I discounted that as being your issue.

OP and 0 pressure indicate flow w/o resistance. But a blockage before the pressure sensor would just be relieved w/o notice. Makes sense.

Well, ya-ay! But I dont get it. Where was the oil flowing? Where was the open path?

Cool. Pls update in a while.

If the hole or ground around the stump is fairly "clean" you can augment your pop out force by forcing the boom down and curling simultaneously. Its prying.

Could be, but valves are definitely steel, and steel on steel is not a good sliding bearing combination. Thats why I think the guides are cast iron.

Im not sure that the guides are ductile. They may be cast iron.

A knurl would result in high spots that are sharp. These would file the metal the guide gets pressed into. Cutting a very shallow spiral in the guide on a lathe will guarantee success. You will need to identify the portion of the guide that will be fully enclosed in the head and have a machine...

Some copper sulfate strategically placed will repel roots.

You can run the 6' cutter easily through light to medium duty work. If you really need to do much of the rough stuff work that a heavy duty bushog can do youre going to need a bigger tractor that can deliver near 10HP per foot mower width.

Oil pump plugged on suction side?

Are you able to find out your surfactant type and post it? I have lilypads. Thanks!

PPP

Who cares?

Careful: PEXALPEX will hold shape. Bad if you need to unclamp a connection to change, move, etc. The metal bends every time. A dent will not reform to round thus degrades the pressure capability. Poly will be cheaper, easier, more forgiving, more versatile, and present no metal fatigue issues.

I have a 200' 3/4" ID black poly pipe running 150PSI underground from house to barn. Virtually no pressure drop at 20CFM. No problems, 24yrs.

I think that might be a spark gap plug. These resist fouling by putting a "clean" spark gap up in the ceramic. This clean gap forces the spark up to the voltage level that will instantly jump both gaps. This ploy prevents a dirty plug from bleeding off the the voltage through the fouling and in...

I use sections salvaged from a Craftsman premium rubber water hose that got mowed for lower coolant lines of that size. I think they are actually superior to OEM, and FREE.

Hi. Welcome to the forum. It requires a tractor split and replacement of a part. They replaced some other parts that they may have messed up getting it apart. Cost for parts and new hydraulic fluid was $620. Total cost incl labor was $2K. If you have a shop do it make sure you insist on SUDT hyd...

Yes. No problem. Use 12-3 romex in a conduit. The wire itself in much easier to work with than direct burial 12-3 UF. Just make sure the cable is protected from damage where it transits the wall. If youre talking running the wire above ground you can protect it well using the ballistic nylon...

The righthand loader frame upright bolts directly over the access port for adjusting the 2stage clutch, displacing the original cover. It is a major structural mounting point. Fortunately 2stage adjustment is very seldom needed. And In my case that port is not what leads to a view of the...

It may have been. But with him using the technique of tapping on it and tightening he probably has the joint socked up tight. Still, drawing it in with proper tension would yield a slightly different, elastically stretched, loaded zone. Proper tension, torque, is not speced though. Who knows...

I finished haying for the moment and this freed some time for the tractor and me. Ive gotten the righthand loader mount out of the way uncovering the 2 stage adjustment port, and also removed the clutch case breather next to it. The throwout bearing is visible through the breather port. Im...

Fuel issue. Quick try: If it has a true choke, NOT the enrichener type, start the engine and give it a minute to warm. Then pull it wide open. Before it over revs slam the choke shut. Reopen before it flood stalls. Repeat several times. -- You may have a water bead that has collected right...

The fluid entrained glinty metal is a real worry. Good luck. Pls report back. :confused:

I use Loctite retaining compound #638 usually. It is very strong at below 100F but weakens a lot up around boiling and above. You can get a nut or whatever off without heat damaging a nearby seal. As far as using a threadlocker on a torque locked joint, its really just insurance. A real...

Probably there are different sizes. The taper angle may be standard. Ive only encountered them a few times and never needed a replacement. - - Cant you get the part from the stump grinder maker?

Yes. Do not do away with the conical bolt fastening if it immobilizes the joint. Its meant to immobilize the joint. An immobile joint does not wear. It is permanent and unchanging. If the bolt is worn so much as to prevent this get another bolt. If that doesnt result in a stable situation then...

I have an L3450 - no backhoe. I doubt a problem with the transmission ... gear drive shuttle shift, right? At those hours Im surprised at any problem actually. Maybe the hydraulic oil pump or its internal drive is failing and about to lock up, hence the stall and bucking. The seeming...

Is there a resister in the wire leading to the coil. It should be near the coil. These go bad or lose connection sometimes. If you find a resister put a clip lead end to end and try spark. If it works just run the tractor momentarily - replace the resister. Your coil or points would fail w/o it.

Any black smoke? Is engine running on all cylinders. Using more fuel and losing power indicates something is really wrong, unless its just the air filter or something in the intake. Mice could have built a nest there or something. 🤔

Nothing is fool proof. Finding a genuine fool is sobering and extremely alarming. :eek:

Typically no down pressure is available on the 3ph. Youve tried angle of attack w/o success. try adding a couple hundred pounds to the implement.

[[Yeah. I think rScotty interpreted my concerns, as originally stated, a little different than I meant.]] Good word; hack. Several would be pretty easy if this were not a 2 stage clutch. That bearing has to put up with brief "feathering" and elevated rpm on occasion to start a heavy implement...

The bearing definitely has clearance with the clutch out. The audible freewheel coast to a stop is really just the happenstance indicating the adequate clearance and the sound the dryness. Yeah, If there was only a grease fitting. The shop manual linked by Alan W. refers to "change or...