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Pull back on the pedal, then push down on the lock knob on the dash.

Doe yours have a control panel o the handle? Behind that if so. THE TORO COMPANY

They were reasonably stout tractors, built by AYP > Husqvarna. They don't handle like butter, but for 600$ if it runs up good, steers decent and you aren't dealing with deck rot- I'd consider it.

Try also just jacking up 1 side. Then turn the other tire. Repeat the other side. You're verifying that both wheel keys are in. It can be possible with no load IE both wheels in the air, that the wheel rolls w/o the key in place.

Meaning did visibly was there a sign of burning on the belt sides, or other signs that the belt was damaged.

Did the old belt tell a story? You have the belt on the inside of the rear belt guide?

Doing some cleaning up projects where I'll be working near and across a smallish creek, in snags and brambles and such. A material that is more snag resistant maybe? TIA

Is it a plastic disc type switch? I've put extra padding above the disc to make it less sensitive but still works if you get tipped off the seat. I get having a bypass switch is helpful when you run the PTO off tractor, if it won't stay going with the brake set.

I don't have enough info to say that. I don't really think there are many around by me. Just what I pick up from the occasional call about wanting a different option than the local dealer, who people tend to like BTW. Aren't they like at least 20 years old? It always seems to be an intermittent...

Maybe it's that the local Kubota dealer doesn't care for them by me. I get a call every so often on these for service- intermittent this or that. I send them away.

They are unique. You would probably find the Kubota dealer is the only game in town for repairs. Maybe run it by them.

To test for a draw, remove the negative battery cable and set your meter to DCV and put the two ends between the battery and the ground. A fraction of a volt isn't abnormal in this basic test. If you have more, reassemble then run the machine and repeat.

Put your part numbers into a search. Stens Rotary or even Amazon. When someone has a HD machine, I really like to use the OEM. That said, I've gotten big aftermarket spindles for Husqvarna and Gravely that worked out well. Couldn't make it happen any other way.

I'm not really familiar with your unit, but have you pulled the starter to see if it stayed engaged at last run and is now stuck in the ring gear? Or possibly something external? Pulling for you here.

The LX280 is a nice tractor. X3 series is close enough in chassis toughness. Your LX has a nicer transaxle and larger tires than the base models. Do you have the 42" deck or the 48"? Honestly the new decks, the construction and the belt drive of the 48" is much better IMO.

You wouldn't want to use an adapter on a chipper shaft. What you could do is check that model and see if certain ones were built with the impeller that fits and use that. I dunno if that is worth your will on a small chipper. I've run into this before on motorized assist baggers.

Looking a tanker of Red n Tacky as we speak. ;) What's the chances anyone here has a rail car full?

I have Adblock + on both Edge and Chrome. Generally I'm happy with it. Been with me for years. Good old Youtube says they're gonna block me now though....

It's cold now by me right now. We have an insulated ish type hive and bees that were late arrivals, but stayed active. On some of the warmer days though, we've seen nothing. The wife says bad news will wait. We'll be watching, but half expect yellow jackets to be the first sign of activity.

I saw Stens had that big barrel on sale. I have carts and carts on backorder. I suppose you could fill grease guns and sell cups of grease at flea markets, farm shows and such...

So there are gear oil pumps that range from the size that will fit on a quart container on up. Mainly for installing new oil. It would be a bit tedious , but for a few quarts certainly doable.

I've got say that this is great accessory that you're getting. With my bar today, it made my driveway work go quite well. We had a hard week long freeze and then lots of rain. I'd never seen my drive get that bad. I didn't see any base in that section of drive-it must of gotten built up over...

Hmm, I don't have a manual. There were bulletins regarding some switch changes that don't apply to RCC's though. What is known: Both seat switch functions are shown as NC. The brake switch is the usual NO/NC. It didn't show a PTO relay in the schematic, but it won't be the first time that it is...

Welcome. Could post the product number from below the seat? I've not had that issue. The only issue that I've had with those switches were on the tractors and were for a no crank. Prior to this, if you set the brake- would it crank w/o being on the seat?

I've seen just about all in fuel lines. Personally, I use mostly the Briggs low permeable line. It doesn't rot, get brittle plus holds its shape for pumping etc. These diaphragm pumps are effective enough, but not overly strong to begin with. Maybe a 2' foot lift or so. Flimsy line can and does...

I might of done a head once, but never anything otherwise internal on these. Awesome, but getting old and I understand the need for caution here. Replacing the lines with the proper one and a $10 shut off valve is all I see here. Tygon belongs on saws. You need a fuel line that seals and...

So your issue isn't going to be improved with the fuel line that was used. For starters it is the wrong size. You noted that your fuel is drawn from the top of the tank. Anything that prevents a perfect seal will allow the line to drain back into the tank. Me, I would get a good braided 1/4"...

Captain Obvious here. The newer ones at least had 2 tags. Would it come up in your search history if you started to type it out?

Well, their original bolts on the edges of the bucket only. The rest of the bar is held securely by brackets that slide over your existing edge. Here's my version, albeit when it was first done. This was just a fun project for me. I guess the bolts above the edge wouldn't be a big deal. I just...

It's the first that I looked at the PRO version. I've used my edge quite a bit and there isn't damage to speak of. Mine is just mild steel. Bolted on across the bucket to me is a negative , but that's what makes it reversable.

FWIW I have a Piranha style bar on my bucket (homemade plasma project) . I can't think of a reason that I would have switched to a straight edge. What's the purpose of the reversable bar? Anyways, welcome to the group!

I read what I could of the bill. It doesn't really bother me that they want to encourage purchasing battery powered equipment with tax incentives. I repair OPE and there are certainly folks out there who are good candidates for battery equipment. We all know the EPA cans are a mess, but not...

Proposed Washington state bill HB 1168 . The EPA seems to think that OPE users spilled SEVENTEEN MILLION GALLONS. So pretty much a bill much like California has been proposed...

My thought is that it would be more like an idler pulley bearing. At least hopefully. To my knowledge, these transmissions are still serviceable, though a nasty clean up job goes with due to the Bentonite lube.

Good deal. By me, no. If they don't currently sell it, it doesn't seem to exist in their parts system. Actually both the Kubota and Deere dealers won't touch anything else. You will see an odd trade every so often though at least at the Deere dealer for sale.

These were nice tractors.

I've seen a clothespin tied to to piece of twine for said purpose....

That video reminded me of a rather parched yard that I saw ~ 10 years back when I went to a customer's house. I guess 2- FIVE GALLON gas cans worth of fuel were dumped down the mole holes in order to send them packing. A match was involved there too.

A guy told me he uses carbide pellets. When damp it produces acetylene gas I guess. He said it will kill them w/o lighting, but it isn't half as fun.

I didn't read through this. Years back I had a guy in facilities maintenance give me a pail of Drive up? It was specifically to clean drive throughs and approaches. Did real well.

On your starter you likely have what they call a piggyback solenoid. If that is the case, the solenoid is mounted on starter itself. Your + lead goes to the starter lug direct and then when the key is turned, a smaller trigger wire (right next to it) should have 12 volts when the key is turned...

George, I know that you are frustrated and this has been dragging on for you. Reposting multiple threads will get you nowhere. Myself and others have posted some things to check out, yet from here we don't know if you have followed these troubleshooting thoughts or not. That would be a good...

Interesting people's thoughts. I'll be watching how Progressive treats you. Back in my Progressive claim, I was towing a trailer at the time. They flat out said we don't deal with repairing trailers. Pick out one you like kind of thing and they paid me for it. The truck had some damage in the...

Welcome. Hopefully your guy comes through with it. For the Craftsman to work, it would obviously need to be the right version of the chassis. 247. is the start of MTD built Craftsman products BTW. I would maybe start by looking for what compares to the OEM # of the one you have.

John Deere builds everything from light duty 200 series models up through the knarly built 900 series that I know of. A more particular one or two catch your eye or a more specific ??

I had Progressive and was rear ended a few years back by another Progressive driver. Claims were paid w/o question. Their contact wasn't in a hurry to see me sign off for medical issues either. A good experience for me.

I would probably use some furnace or exhaust cement type thing. Lots of vibration there.

If the bore of the mounting hole is the same, and your deck doesn't have a special holder or stiffener - than they very likely would. I've put the wider blades on ZTR decks and they cleared fine.

Welcome. A good inspection is in order as Randy pointed out. You didn't say how many hours it has. Should also look for broken spindles or one of the blade spindles binding- so see that they turn freely. Tension is adjustable as well on these if I recall.

Are you able to turn the engine by hand?

I supposed that she named hers too?!

Good deal. I read the thread title and thought to myself, why did he take a machine that sized to the park and how on earth did he get it stuck! Glade it worked out!

You didn't say if this is a Kohler as well. But typically the anti- backfire solenoid blocks the fuel pipe that goes to the venturi. Because carburetor bowls also need another vent, your fuel likely flooded via the vent passage. Low speed circuits can draw from the bowl area as well.

The wife's new tool box!

My XJ allows either 32 or 46 viscosity hydro oil. It does sound like maybe they used 46 at the last service.

Sure . It's only here that I get these. It might be easiest to download MB as they are reputable. Here's what it shows in the log. They show as blocked as their website is compromised. billecox.com (from 10/16), read-download-books.com (from 10/18, 10/21,10/23) hrhkmstlb.puzztake.com (from...

Welcome. This happens when either the lock knob on the dash is up or if the rear arms of the deck are adjusted too high. The lock won't release if it is too high, it needs 1/4 -3/8 of an inch travel before it hits the frame.

For a few days now several of the ads show as coming from a compromised website. As an FYI.

You will see the switch for the drive pedals underneath the body near the pedals if'n you want to have a look. Cycle the PTO switch. Maybe you will luck out,

I wouldn't think so. Maybe a drive position switch. I can always start mine off the seat, but touch a drive pedal it dies because the seat is unoccupied. You didn't really say, but you've had this running after fuse replacement- correct? If I've ever had a no crank, it goes back to the PTO...

Reading what you have replaced, it wasn't clear if you had replaced the stump jumper. It obviously had gotten some good use. Worth a shot? Maybe in the nature of goodwill, they'd cut a deal seeing as though you've had a CAC open.

Beats me. I just use GL4 if it's called for. No one on here is gonna pay the bill for you if it doesn't work out.

"My symptoms now are: Engine will try and stall with the PTO switch in the ON position, with either (1) me getting off the seat, or (2) releasing the parking brake." Those aren't symptoms, that's the way it is supposed to be. It wasn't clear where you checked your voltage. Your clutch should...

You'll have to see that the trigger wire is being powered at the starter solenoid. If not, your brake switch is also in the crank circuit. A look at the terminals behind the switch could be in order as well.

They are quite dependable really. It won't need cleaning. Any pump issues you would replace the diaphragm. If you do take it apart, do so cautiously. Couple of little springs to lose.

Basically look for wear on the float valve whilst it is apart. The little holes in the body, kinda three in a row - the tiniest has to be cleaned. A wire from a brush is fine. The main is through the bowl nut. Just use whatever jet spray you have and it will be fine. 3 screw fuel pump or 4?

Too bad there is no resolution on this. Best of luck moving forward.

Good deal. You thinking a loose connection or rather a contact in the switch itself?

Wow. That's a beauty! You can't touch anything even close to that for that $.

Let us know what you find out.

In the manual the only correlation between the 3 is the instrument panel itself or a chassis ground.

There isn't a mechanical compression release. Really whatever happens to be there is how the cam is ground. Me, I'd clean the carbon out of the heads if you think that it is excessive or just buy a new Briggs starter and life goes on. You are correct that there are certain parts that are NLA...

Yes. New gaskets. Head gaskets are different L to R

The shrouds, heads will get you to the top of the valves. The covers for the spring ends is under the intake.

Adjusting the valves are a bit more involved here. They require removal to adjust the gap. These aren't the source of an inoperative compression release as there isn't one. Lots of carbon on the head can be an issue though. You are correct on the starter, the flywheel can stay. I spray of lube...

Yes, I would agree with the starter and a possible solenoid. These starters did get tired and new one is frequently the fix. 497596 If you determine that it's a oil burner, you may have to go a little further.

It has too many springs if you are using this with an electric clutch. First off, remove the brake arms, hardware and their springs. Next remove the spring that hooks of the front of the idler cam. The actual tensioner spring that pulls back on the idler cam is not as designed, but I'm sure you...

No, these solenoids should not get hot. Are you experiencing this issue when the starter is attempting to crank over the engine? You didn't say what engine you had. IE if it is a Briggs OHV, you could have a compression release issue.

So are you installing a tension spring on this? 174883 was the belt that the 42" inch used w/ the electric clutch along with a spring. 2002 and up?

Be sure and let us know what you all had done.

Next time you have the deck off, snap a pic of the top of the deck.

Welcome. You'd might do well matching at an OPE dealer if you could compare the chute diameter to something in for repair or something. Those parts may not be in the dealer's parts bins to compare. 40-8150 is an example of a Toro retainer for an older 24" model. 25-5450 for a 32". Printable?

It might end up being something like that. This has a pair of thin, roundish steel something or others that hold against the glass, gasketing goes inside and then retained with heavier angled steel. At first I though I could seal the glass to the metal, but then thought better of it. Figured it...

Funny thing. I called the Osburn stove co thinking I would get the window gasket kit complete as certain other parts had deteriorated. She texted me a proper number for parts. When I pressed 9 for English, it said something to the effect of FBI agent something or other.

I think in my case the gasketing around the glass was a big offender. I too had some sticky grunge. I know around the glass the gasket leaked. I think of the wood we burned had to have been seasoned. I'll see if the flue build up is normal when I get to it. Traditionally it stays pretty clean as...

I am a member of the razor blade club. Usually flakes right off. This stuff wouldn't budge, dunno why. We burn normally dry fir and some cherry.

I found a solution for cleaning the glass in the door. Purple Power degreaser. I'm probably in the last group people on the planet that knows this, but the stubborn soot washed off without effort. I have the door off getting ready to reseal the glass and door. Here's my share.

Sure, you wouldn't have to fill it. Her's is the small chassis and wheel package too. The only thing I noted on my customer's was the self threading shoulder bolts that attached the bracket - 1 was pulling loose. The others were holding so I just put a nut on the one whilst I was there.

I've kept various versions of stabilizers for customers over the years. For the most part they work fine for simple off season storage or keeping their fuel fresh for the season in these households with small yards. I point to the back of the bottle and tell them the "keeps fuel fresh for two...

That would make sense. You'd think the exhaust pipe would be glowing if you had a sheared flywheel key.

Maybe repost what is happening in the repair section also linking this discussion. Someone with good experience might not be perusing the LS section. Parts/Repairs

No, it should start w/o being in the seat. Set your park brake. Did the J1 go away?

My point was more that it is a short, odd sized belt that is difficult to install. There isn't lots of room to make up for a half sized belt if off the shelf is full sized. There's lots that I do that I know that needs an OEM belt to work right and there is lots that it is Ok to use an aftermarket.

Well, it certainly isn't an even sized belt nor is it pricey. John Deere Fan Belt - M800313

That's a nice looking machine. Seeing as though it is new to you, you may want to run it just to confirm that you didn't have an oil spill from the last guy. Or can you actually see the source of the leak?

Toro puts 10W40 or 15W50 in these pumps. This manual may help: https://www.toro.com/getpub/29738

Belt slippage causes a weak left wheel issue more often than one would think. It is just the way the torque is delivered through the belt drive. Best advice is to replace the idler, put a new OEM belt on it and give it a try.

Hmm. I don't see any info on there being trouble codes at all in the manual. I'll keep my thinking cap on.

Lifters are assembled w/ lube. It is a good practice and easy to do. Me, I have a C clamp set up. You could use a vice w/ a pad and a small socket.

I saw what he did there in regards to locating the rocker and securing it. That looks fine to me. There's give there but I suppose one could get a thin straight edge across the square base of the pivots and they should be aligned. I looked down for a bit and then noticed he was using RTV, kinda...

So, you never found the reason why your pushrod bent? If that is the case, a set of lifters would be in order I'd think.

If you are jumping the big lugs of the solenoid and get nothing, that takes the solenoid, fuse and the switches out of the equation. That leaves the battery, starter, cable in between, ground or an engine that won't turn. So to start with, try and turn the engine via the screen on top.

I got a look at the piece I made again this last week. It was pretty much what I thought it was. The top frame didn't have reinforcement, just had some sheet attached for the base. What was happening though is one of the 4 shoulder bolts that the base slid on was pulled through. Dunno what if...

It is good to know that Swisher is still hands on with consumer issues. For me it's been along time, but they were responsive a couple decades ago as a dealer. Not a lot of corporate crap to slice through. Pretty much like you were talking with your uncle Ernie on the other line.

Can you tell what pulley it launches from? Me I would double check that the front of the deck isn't pitched way too low. You could bore another hole an inch out further for the spring to hook into which would give the belt a touch more tension.

Welcome Al. If the lines are good, no need to prime. You could drop the line before the fuel pump and with very light pressure bring some fuel through to the pump lessening the amount of cranking. Or a burst of carb spray into the carb before you crank to get it to run up.

Really those little single Inteks used to be an OK engine. Cams were built different on them years back. When they stretched them to 33" , there were noticeably more head gasket and cam problems with the newer versions. There twins aren't perfect but at least what seemed to be problematic they...

I can see the menu board above the service desk now. "Ask about our $499.00 surge and purge special. Includes biscuits and free charging system test." It is weird how many times it's the same combo platter...

The compression release arm breaks off. They are all metal, but hopefully yours is good for the duration. Just a poor attempt of a gentle ribbing. Sometimes the best the best laid plans don't go as they should!

Yes. No need to pull the sump or the engine to do the seal. Wait for that when you do the cam!

They are built both ways. Welcome to TBN!

Ah. Maybe I should change that to any Kohler head that I'VE ever needed didn't come loaded. (Just the bare head) (y)

They must have been boom brackets I made that were adjustable...

I think weight wise you're OK. Think the usable weight of the sprayer would be comparable to two bags full of heavy grass? Might have done some reinforcing? I can't remember what size sprayer they had, but it went most the way across the twin bagger frame. Welded supports plus a sheet metal base...

If you're rough cutting, it won't make too much difference.

I did exactly that using her bagger tubes and upper bagger frame. The deck was gone so this creation stays on her Husqvarna. If I recall I put on a set of lower bars to hold the wand and hose.

Comparing both heads is probably your best friend. Typically Kohler heads don't come loaded, so watch close that you get what you want.

Nobody stuck a Briggs and Stratton sticker on it, did they? ;) You got this? At least you have a good side to compare things like guide positioning, how far the valves are protruding from the head which helps to determine seat and guide health, how free the valves cycle etc. How many hours and...

If there isn't a problem with the intake tube, it's still most likely carb related. Best thing to do is pick one of your carbs, remove the bowl, flip it over and look at the float level. The problem with aftermarket carbs that I've seen, is that they use brass inserts for the float valve seat...

Checking the compression is a good thing. Commands are mechanically pretty stout, but a migrating exhaust valve seat happens in a blue moon. Usually a non firing cylinder on a Command goes back to an ignition issue. It sounds like you have SAM ignition. Like Randy said, the model and spec is...

Other notes: If this has the accelerator pump on the carb, that could create a rich condition if damaged. As well as the fuel pump itself letting fuel into the oil. You seem to be describing a rich condition, but have you confirmed that both cylinders are running? An easy way if you have an...

Why not try an inline fuel shut off? If in fact your fuel evaporates in bowl, when the inlet drops and fuel can flow back to the tank. The little disc pumps won't stop a gradual backflow. This is dependent on the level of things and you didn't really say what Toro you had. Their ZTRs tend to...

Generally is the key with most manufacturers. Except for Husqvarna really in my world. Not in a good way either. Though Briggs has done well considering their turmoil. But parts that they shouldn't ever be out of are still a problem and have been year after year. Odds and ends get you too, but...

Times are not what they used to be.

Post the actual model number. This may help ID what you have.

Welcome to TBN. I rarely see one of these, so technically I'm not much help. One would think that However either a blade hub or spindle pulley are located on the shaft IE a spline or key- has spun and isn't driving. Time maybe to swap part positions and if you can't see what's what.

Does the X7 series have the feature built into the ECU that you cycle the key 3 times and the RPMs, battery voltage and any codes display?

Well, how'd you do?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C28VK2SM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Welcome. It would be easier for you to pull off what is in your way so you can see what you are up against here. With poor access and working on something you aren't really familiar with, it will be frustrating.

It would be a good idea to take the tension off the arm and see how worn the arm is. This seems to be the biggest offender- especially if you are 350- 400 hours +. There is a guide upgrade available , 2 bulletins that I know of on these. Plus the newer belts seem thinner and deeper running than...

One thing to consider to is if this has sat awhile and depending on storage prep could have valves that are on the sticky side. These small OHVs have light valve springs and should there be deposits on the stems, they can kind of pop and not start or even have one that won't quite seat.

Did you verify your float level?

I've used those things that Oaktree posted from Home Depot, and they work pretty good. These here are awesome. Shred blackberries down to the ground, grass OK too. The three pointers do OK for cutting.

I wouldn't expect the mower mentioned to be good on much more than real light brush. I've serviced some , always felt that the spindles were pretty light duty. Best advice would be to dig through their parts section and see what the meat and potatoes of thing are if you are considering brush...

Where is the float level in all of this? The tip of the float valve may be sharp, but is it fatigued? On your style carb, the best you can hope for is the pull the emulsion tube out with a hook. Have you dropped a piece of fuel line in a supply can from the filter and checked if it will run ?

Did you crank the engine when you loosened the bleed screw?

Welcome to TBN. That tractor isn't equipped with anything that could drain a good battery to the point of recharge in 20 minutes. A nasty short? A horribly bad PTO clutch? Maybe some updated trouble shooting procedures could help? Let us know. A minimum 250 CCA battery should be used, 300 better.

Your filter being loose, then tightened again- did it change anything? These engines definitely had their share of coil problems for a hot stall. Sometimes the CD would be wiggy and begin to throw the spark at the wrong time. The thing to know before you replace a coil is that these machines...

31426 is the spring listed for your application on the dealer side of things. If you for some reason are looking for something different, then try alternate spec numbers. Though I can't think why.

You should have 12 volts on one small solenoid terminal when the key is activated and ground on the other. If you hear the solenoid activate, but the starter doesn't go- jumping the 2 large terminals on the solenoid should make the starter turn. If this is true, the solenoid is likely toast. The...

Welcome. Sounds like you are fishing for a particular problem. Feel free to impose!

It might be as simple as some water or debris floating around in the bowl. There is a bolt on the LH side of the bowl that when removed will drain it. Use a clean catch pan. Drain is 3/4" on a 4 screw pump model and 5/8" on a 3 screw model. You can take a straw from the carb clean spray can and...

Likely the brake cable which pulls the pad away

Many battery vendors happily load test your battery for free. Does it seem like the engine is rather hard to crank?

The condition that you are describing sounds more like the compression not being fully released , which on yours is typically excessive valve lash. What compression release is there is ground into the cam. There is no relay under the seat. There is a reverse sensing switch at the back of the...

Just sitting here thinking that I put a metal 90 and lead in for stability. I did pour a 2' circle of concrete around the hydrant. That I can see, the rest I'm not so sure of anymore. . .

It is likely that you have the standard coil set up that requires a ground to the coil to shut the engine off. They have a white wire normally, yours have access covers above the coils to see? These coils are never powered. You would need need power to the anti backfire solenoid at the base of...

I have a McKissick tow behind model. On mine the manual gives a clearance setting for better chipping. Too much gives more vibration.

And just maybe that is what happened. Will be a fall project. Will see if you win the prize! Thanks Larry.

When I redid the pump house I put valves on each line that left. Had a suspicion that I had a leak and just had pex'd the house last winter. I basically shut the power off to the pump, then shut off the individual valves. The house perfect. The run to the hydrant emptied the pressure tank when...

I suspected a leak and confirmed that it does....somewhere. It is plumbed w/ ~200' PVC and put the whole works in ~ 7 years ago and mostly runs the edge of the driveway. There is no outward signs of leakage. Do hydrants themselves somehow leak or is it more likely a plumbing problem?

Bottom up: Nut / belt guide / nut / idler pulley. You may want to take a pic on the positioning of the guides.

Just about like all of them, but these have a mix of guides for the belt. I can't type you out a step by step, but should you have a specific concern just ask.

We have EGO stuff. I'm limbing up some cedar and fir to clean them up and get them off the ground. Bought a pole saw for getting into the thick of things. That and the little battery C/ saw work great for this project.

How about a breakfast burrito with garlic mashed potatoes, salmon, and 2 runny eggs?

Welcome. The proper model and year from under the seat could be helpful. There is probably lots of help on the web on locating a short. The obvious thing is to look for visible wire damage, then you could unplug the connectors that you can easily get to, plugging them in one at a time seeing...

Fuel lines seem to be one of those neglected things. IE folks that jam a bigger fuel filter and ruin the line for the proper filter. Deteriorated, hard lines too. These barbless went around a few years back. I had leakers, lines that came off. I feel that the barb is more apt to seal and of...

You should really replace those barbless filters. Doom, despair and agony they will bring. Trim the line to get a good seal.

Sounds like Mulligan's did OK by you. Glad she's renewed again.

Mine are Oregon. There are bunches of others like on Amazon. You can drop it top down on berry vines and such- mulches them to bits.

So if you have the leaky tin valve covers, there is a kit that replaces them with the composites. The bonus besides the no leaking, is the fact that it comes with a exhaust deflector.

Yes. They are terrible. Some peoples last forever, some couple seasons. Is the exhaust baking your cable? Would an exhaust shield help? Courage engine?

Not really. Just clean things up and put the o rings on. Usually tighten in an x pattern being careful with those covers not to overtighten.

This is best blackberry and vine blade I've ever used for those interested.

I see that Deere still makes that tractor. Shows a list of 6K. Sounds like you made a sound decision. Keep us in the loop.

Well, that's disheartening. It seems like it was something you would've fixed regardless. When I buy from someone new, I use a credit card that gives me purchase protection. They have no complaints on BBB and look to have a store front, mostly OK Google reviews.

Real tiny spoons... So a lot of bee keepers that do it for the honey then feed the hive sugar slurry, kinda of a simple syrup to give them sustenance for winter. Trays, poultry waterers some use. They will glean from about anything I'd think, but need to be able to defend it against yellow...

They're pretty easy. By us the native mason bees are smaller than some we grabbed from the nursery. The larger ones can be almost a little bossy, not what I'd call aggressive though. Generally I've bored blocks of wood, I never clean them like some do. Use a couple of different sized bits and...

Personally I'd put the belt in and see what you've got for now. I don't know if there is another rider anymore in the same category as what you've got. Kubota used to make a rider with the hopper on the back. Only ever saw one. There are many, many more of these K46s that get abused and work...

Yes on your procedure. I grew up setting them a tad snug, like .018" .

Yes, the fill port is ahead under the pulley. I suppose that you could figure something out to keep the debris out yet allow it to vent, but you can get that as a service part.

In a perfect world, the idlers would be replaced and check the trans pulley spline as well.

So Deere's R mowers, they are a bugger to replace the traction belt. I know that things don't sound good, but what it acts like is that the pulley on the top of the transaxle has spun its splines. Depends what you were noticing stopped when the belt supposedly stopped. What I would do is take...

I'm assuming that your oil shows no signs of fuel as the level is ticking down? Oil checked with the cap resting on top, but not screwed on the tube? Yes, fuel can transfer from the pump and also a carb issue such as float valve or the accelerator pump if equipped. The latter you will have a...

We too have a number of EGO handheld pieces. We like our stuff. I have 2 customers that speak highly of the ZTRs. Both less than a year in. People like their walk behinds just fine. I would personally let the market get more experience with them due to the serviceability though. If you...

I haven't tried that. Does this sound similar, or what do you like about the beans you get? Ethiopia Suke Quto - Tony's Coffee

In the stem? The main jet is turned in all the way- snug, no adjustment.

Welcome to TBN. You just went up the food chain. That's a Command. The white sticker by your oil filter has the model and spec that you desire.

Besides the Firth, I have a Turkish pepper grinder. That's great when you need a lot.

Vic Firth , quality drumsticks and pepper / salt mills for your pleasure...

You would have to have them both there to know I suppose. They blow between the cylinder and oil return holes. The stock gaskets seem to have enough area there.

The bore is 6 mm larger on the 25. I work on a lot more CV's than CH's. Less head gaskets every year as there are less around, but every CV or CH that I've done had the fire ring in the last decade or whenever they changed. The nice thing with the Kohler kits is everything that you need...

Welcome. You may need a new clutch. Test that you have and maintain power at the clutch connector first. One other thing that sometimes happens is the wire or switch in the reverse sensing circuit will give you trouble. Before you engage the deck, turn on the mow in reverse feature and see if it...

That's a heck of a deal. But then again, all I hear are the horror stories.

For decades OPE manufacturers that built a name in walk behinds, riders and such had much of their handhelds made by just about everyone under the sun. Ryobi, Maruyama, Echo, Mitsubishi etc. It made sense for everyone. Glue the Toro or Deere label on and there ya go. Then of course came the...

I get that point more than you know!

When engines were knarly and sounded like power. True. Lots of love for the Commands though. A bit over engineered at times...

Which is owned by KPS. It isn't getting any better out there....

M141911? This shows a different lid number, your number isn't in the system anymore. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/61166/referrer/navigation/pgId/283265190

It would work fine bolting as it is intended, though I could see adapting it if it is advantageous for you to remove the bracket from time to time. The rear plate is reasonably thick so it can take a few RnRs.

Getting oil fowling on the plug? If you go that route, best to do gasket sets on both sides, breather gasket and be sure to check or replace the reed.

I wonder if these will be a flash in pan. Just that who considers a manufacturer of mostly hand held products to be a source for a rider?

If you have good input, maybe one of the wheel hubs are no longer locked to the shaft. I don't know if your axle has a double d shaft or is keyed.

Well, definitely the bracket for your front draft arm seems to be bent back, but that will mainly affect the pitch. Rear draft arms can get hogged out and rear lift brackets on the deck can get torn away. These are a lot of deck for that chassis. I'd pull the deck and look to see if the frame is...

Glad you are fixed up. These things are quite frustrating. Hopefully it's a while before the pick up gets stopped up again, but at least you can get it going again. To be clear to any that read this going forward, there isn't a fuel return line in these applications. It is simply a vent hose...

A working pulse pump can handle either. There's a bunch of things that are going left unsaid here. Like what had clogged the line. Did you install the fuel line complete? Air in you fuel filter is not abnormal. If you are drawing air in from poorly sealing line, cracked pick up tube and not...

I'm not familiar with the rev limiter. How does that work? My experience on mechanical governors is that the static governor adjustment is pretty much wide open throttle at both the governor shaft and throttle shaft- then tighten the arm down. Though there are times when it is advantageous to...