Chain sharpening difference?

John_Mc · Feb 17, 2025

5030 said:
The inherent issue with manual sharpening is, being human, you cannot hold the cutting angles and gullet depth consistently across every cutter. You think you can, but in reality you cannot simply because of the human factor.

Which is one of the reasons I don't freehand file with just a round file. I've met dozens of people who think they do a great job at hand filing with nothing but a file. I've met exactly 3 who were actually good enough at it to reliably beat "new, fresh out of the box" performance and durability.

Far too many (whether hand filing or machine grinding) fail to realize there is more to a good chain sharpening than just making it more aggressive. Often in the act of making a chain more aggressive, they'll sacrifice durability of the chain or cause accelerated wear on various engine components (not to mention making it more wearing on the operator.)

BnRidge · Feb 17, 2025

A lot of chain sharpening info here too:
Carlton Maintenance and Safety Manual - English

Carlton Products

Engineered to Perform

www.carltonproducts.com

dodge man · Feb 17, 2025

I’m the OP and I’m wondering if the chain on my pro saw just gets used harder. It has a bigger fuel tank and I use it on bigger wood so I may just need to hit it one or two strokes more with the file.

Topzide · Feb 17, 2025

When the chips get finer, I switch out chains. I always have 5 - 6 sharp chains around. Get back home, sharpen up the ones used, and put in rotation. Can run both the dremel tool for quick dress up in the field, but can also run the chain grinder off of inverter if needed.

Just take a bit of practice with ginger to get your chains good and sharp! You can also change the degree of rake on cutting teeth to suit your needs. The HF unit doesn't compare to the Oregon unit, but the price and taking time to adjust properly sure make it worth the effort!

Still carry the files needed to dress things when at the log. I prefer chisel chains when cutting. They'll hurt you if you're not used to running them! But they sure cut in a hurry!

5030 · Feb 17, 2025

dodge man said:
I’m the OP and I’m wondering if the chain on my pro saw just gets used harder. It has a bigger fuel tank and I use it on bigger wood so I may just need to hit it one or two strokes more with the file.

Like I stated previously, the rock in the bar has everything to do with how a sharp loop cuts. The flatter the bar is (less rock), the slower ANY chain will cut because a flat bar don't present the tooth in an aggressive position and it don't matter how the rakers are set either. Remove both bars from both saws and compare the rock. I bet one is flatter than the other. I flip my bars everytime I change loops but I also address the rock when the get flat form extended use. I use the large 14" diameter disc grinder in the shop with the feed table set at 90 degrees and rock them a bit. Only thing I'm mindful of is how close the drive tangs are to the top[ of the bar between the guide rails. When it gets close, I replace the bar.

In reality, bars are also consumable items, just like drive sprockets on the powerhead end and drive sprockets are actually marked with wear limit marks which is handy.

5030 · Feb 17, 2025

The Oregon (Tecomec) grinders are okay but there are better ones out there. Problem is, the better ones are also much more expensive.

Interestingly, Vevor sells an Oregon-Tecomec clone that is an exact copy of the Oregon unit but has a much better depth stop on it and it's priced about 100 bucks less than the Oregon-Tecomec grinder. Takes the same wheels and basically is a mirror image but again, with a m much better depth stop. I have one of them as well. A positive depth stop is a necessity when setting grind depth or setting rakers. They are on Amascon and of course are free shipping.

The Chinese are good at copying stuff and in this case, actually improved on the original.

tomplum · Feb 17, 2025

My old MS250 became a better performer with a little muffler surgery. It's old enough to where it has an adjustable carb, though I modified the muffler long enough ago that I don't remember if I had to adjust the carb or not. I use Oregon chain and an Oregon grinder. I'd have to look what chains I ordered, but opted for a slightly more aggressive profile. Filing chain might be good therapy for some, but not for me.

dadohead · Feb 17, 2025

I hand file chains. For ME, the biggest improvement came when I began swapping out the flat file a little more often for the limiters. I thought I was filing them all to the gage and even.... I wasn't. Keeping a sharp flat file makes a big difference in getting limiters even and back throwing big chips again. JMHO

BnRidge · Feb 17, 2025

I have a ms261 and ms462.
The 261 I've just used the 2in1, 10yrs or so now. When the teeth dull, the very tip tends to round over a bit depending on what I got into, dirt, normal wear etc. Get some good overhead light, readers, and file till the tip is sharp and clean, the chrome plate is clear to the tip. Keep filing till it's cleaned up, then go to the next, 2 strokes or 20. The depth tooth file takes care of degree of cut. I've had well used chains with half the teeth broke off one side and the rest filed all different lengths yet if the depth tooth distance is correct it cuts good and cuts straight.
The 462 is a little interesting. It revs very high and seems to have a narrow power band. Sharpen the chain, let the saw do the work and it flys. Had great luck for several years. But sharpen the depth teeth wrong and it's a dog, bites the wood and stalls, or skates along not cutting. The depth teeth seem more critical. After some experimenting I could make the saw dive left, dive right, cut straight, fast or slow, just by touching up the rakers.

Jstpssng · Feb 17, 2025

John_Mc said:
Which is one of the reasons I don't freehand file with just a round file. I've met dozens of people who think they do a great job at hand filing with nothing but a file. I've met exactly 3 who were actually good enough at it to reliably beat "new, fresh out of the box" performance and durability.

Far too many (whether hand filing or machine grinding) fail to realize there is more to a good chain sharpening than just making it more aggressive. Often in the act of making a chain more aggressive, they'll sacrifice durability of the chain or cause accelerated wear on various engine components (not to mention making it more wearing on the operator.)

May I ask what you use for a file guide? Years ago I was at a hardwood log bucking seminar and heard several logging contractors talking about sharpening. This is what they recommended...