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Well it's up..was a challenge to get it planted during late March through early April..The rain was relentless here..fairly good stand.. Did get the tractor stuck once but turned myself out with the help of 6' foot or so piece of power pole chained to the tire..

Corn peas beans squash cucumber peppers okra you name it's all on the list Maybe even some melons

Sunk the bottom plows (moldboard for those that prefer that 😃) into the garden area today.. Was still a bit wet and yes we'll have rain tonight..but I gotta get started at some point🤷 About spun down once but was able to pull out with the locking differential.. Pic

Needs to be turned over good and deep to go herbicide free...

So glad after reading through more than a few of these threads about wells outside my area... Yeah it might be 400-500 ft here for water in the limestone ....but drawing out of the limestone of the floridan aquifer is money...never heard of or seen a problem other than having to drop the under...

Last truck forum I was a part of after you opened a thread..there was a section at the bottom of that page that contained.. about 6-8 "related threads" to the topic of the thread you opened...could be quite useful at times

Look around on FB marketplace for a large decommissioned propane tank...ones that are usable sometimes come up fairly cheap ...ends would have to be cut out... but it would Not collapse...make great culverts ...you might get lucky..

If your digging and moving soil fairly straight lines... If smoothing soil for a finished look, let out the top link a bit so the blade rides a bit more on the back blade going forward and long turns should be no problem.

I laid it up on some sawhorses and had it stationary....used the tip of the bar sort of with the rest of the bar almost parallel to the log to cut a starter cut down the entire log ..about only a 1/2" or so deep ..then started over with a cut through the entire log on that side trying to keep as...

You y'all keep posting pics of firewood in totes .is going to make find and or spend some $$$😁

Well just like plastic, steel barrels come in different gauges as well...while some are quite thin... There are heavier gauges as well depending on their usage ...usually the ones that have removable tops are heavier gauge ...

I ripped a post out of a small pine sapling with a semi chisel chain last week....worked ok..no attachments...just freehanded it...full ripping and attachments should be no problem..just don't get in a hurry with it ..let the saw do the work..

Those plastic barrels with ends removed will collapse with the pressure of a knee pressed on them...

Can't speak on chainsaws ..but completely satisfied with a purchase of a DeWalt 48volt hedge trimmer I bought some 5 yrs ago or so...now obsolete I take it but can still buy more batteries if needed. The battery will last it's 90 minute proclaimed charge but does give up a bit torque towards the...

I'm not sure.. but there's different gauges on the thickness of 55 gallon barrels ..you would definitely need the heavier gauge ..and then I would still be concerned with the amount of weight they could support as a culvert . I presume you would weld them together to create it ..let's here...

That's a helluva stack of wood you got there! 👍

Antifreeze is used commonly down here in the south where we don't have the harsh winters folks up north have...if anything is used at all ..

I really like the tote method y'all have there!

Nice stacks!!!

It's a stainless tub from a commercial dryer or washer...can't remember dad brought it home some 20+ yrs ago...hint hint...if you ever come across something like that..

currently burning all the leftovers from splitting and having a beverage or two.. plus acreage burning when needed..

I pulled the tape on it..it's roughly 5x5.5x21 feet long ...which is 577 cubic feet and a cord is 128 cubic feet ..

The house here in S Ga is so well insulated...this amount of wood here might last us 2 winters...since it's not the only means of heat..I couldn't imagine the amount of wood/oil or other means ... some might go through...

Had a bunch of logs given to me, over last few weeks it's been cut, split and stacked mostly.... done the math..it's about 4.5 cords of wood when stacked full with the extra stack in front now ...you can see where I buried a post on each end for a third stack.. The logs left on the ground...

I would drain the tank and wash it out then start with fresh fuel and biocide...been there done that....if you have a surplus tank it needs to be treated as well.. The last thing you want is for any to make it past a filter into a injection pump or injectors..

Just wanted to post up some updated pics of the Satsuma Mandarins...one tree really put on some "big ones"😁. . While the other is more normal size...

Unless you're pumping for extended sessions plus . It's not worth it $$$ wise... Now if you don't want the aggravation of a small engine and $$$ to spare... Have at it .

If for some reason you need heavier... Flat bar steel grating..

When under freezing temps here that might hurt the trees ... Below 25.. I've used citrus frost bags over the trees and had a mister system going under the bags.. barely any damage this past year on a 16 degree night.. just some minor leaf damage where leaves were pressed tightly against cover...

Exactly the right advice .. strap more weight to the box if it's not digging to your expectations...and or add more weight/loaf rear tires if it won't pull it .

Just plain ole H20 here in SGa... Tractor does very little to nothing during the winter months here ... Really no need for an additive to prevent freezing ... In the rare occasion I do use it during freezing temps .. I park it so the rear tires get sunshine in the daytime ours..

I made corn (about 10 bushels) after being blown down 3 times last time did not stand back up....a decent amount of squash and cucumber... But the rest is in flood retention deficit... It's drowning here in SE Ga... Might have to replant peas and beans for a fall crop (made a few bushes are...

7ft 5 strand electric fence... Cheapest and easiest way to keep them out

Yeah I have a hole drilled in it for that .. if look at the side view you'll see it... Don't plan on losing this one anytime soon.. mostly will be used in the intercoastal waterway and beaches of Georgia

Wasn't impressed by what was available online or in stores .. so collected scrap and proceeded to build this.. 16" wide by 22" long Flukes from galvanized Angle and anchor pivot 3/16" .. Used a 1/2" rebar ground down for rod. And 1.5" by .5" thick adjustable handle from an old plow for the...

That would definitely make for a stout blade in the 6' length.

Have no details other than I found the vid on social media... And snapped some screen shots.. Wow . 😁 If you have FB you can see it here https://fb.watch/khDsOnuoEA/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Need to look on FB marketplace... Just searched your state area and found quite a few blades for sale that matched your description..

You said converting to a small farm.. well to me that says stay with R-1's... You'll miss much needed traction with ground implements I think with R-14's..

Most fram horror stories I've heard about wasn't from how the filter was assembled or the quality of those parts.. but the paper filter media itself would disintegrate...maybe they have improved the quality of the media now.. I still choose wix/napa though

Since the last one was a huge hit with the wife .. I have another one going .. this time bone in shoulder or arm roast . I let the roast peek out a little this time in middle of pan😁.. All the same fixings taters, onions celery mushrooms and carrots this time .... Muscadine wine and broth...

ASC had all the bearings and assembly plates I needed to rebuild a 8 foot set of Long brand harrows.. As mentioned remove a section and take measurements of everything.. Axle length Diameter Bearing outer and inner Assembly plate size and bolt pattern.. Spool lengths End spacers.. I went with...

With that amount and size of rock stick with a moldboard plow.. those disc are nice to use on new ground being rolled over but they aren't going to like that size rock very well.

Baked a loaf of butter and beer bread to go with it. 😮

Yes.. this is what I would choose.. Around my area they can found on fb marketplace for 300-700 bucks.. Just make sure bearings and disc are in good shape. Like the ones pictured below..

Rule of thumb is the ground engaging implement should be only as wide as the rear tires more or less...but with your HP you could go beyond that

Got a bone in chuck roast hiding in the pan..seasoned, floured and browned then added potatoes, onions, celery mushrooms didn't have any carrots.. so no carrots😏 Brined it with water, stock and homemade muscadine wine . Cooking on the smoker grill.. over oak and pecan wood .. enjoy.

Great to know .. Most brake clean has some amount of acetone in it.. which is the main dissolving agent for spray foam cleaner. You can also purchase pressurized cans of acetone just for cleaning up after spray foam.

Yes .. I've had this splitter about 4 yrs but have only run 18-20" white/water oak through it with the occasional fork limb.. pecan is tough and that quad limb round split up was impressive...

If I can only get this last bin full before the hot gets here .. rounds of pecan given to me around 24" in diameter... Fellow didn't have the splitter or means to handle them .. One thing I will state is... This champion splitter has earned it's status today as 34 ton .. sent a 4 limb round...

Ether works... But it's one of those things where less is better than more to begin with...

Maybe check here 👇 https://www.shoupparts.com/products/moldboard-plow-parts/ But like anything ordered over the web.. it costs $$$

I had to replace both ignition coils on my 20 yr old 27hp Kohler a few yrs back acting very similar to what your describing...also if it has a electronic fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb bowl that could be an issue too.

Yeah 👍... I have a very similar JD set but with the tubing brace across the top of all 3 plows other than that basically identical... Definitely JD..

Just remember that something attached closer on the lift arms won't have the same counterbalance of your mower that sticks way out behind your tractor . if you're using approximately the same amount of weight.. Some of the best ballast counterweights I've seen is a simple 3pt frame (like the...

I see what you are trying to accomplish with a indicator... But that experience comes with more seat time.. if you were doing some very fine grading for sand or something really important I can see it. You want a simple version attach a small rod, yard stick anything that small enough to attach...

Since I live in the south ...rust free zone per say.. and my 09 model has been paid for since 2012.. I've definitely considered it's my last purchase unless other circumstances say otherwise I had a 90 and 94 model that I drove until 2009 when I bought my current truck.. It's just the quality of...

Nice find and purchase,... I bought a lot worse shaped bush hog model 306.. it needed a input seal on the top side of the gear box . And a lot of straightening and deck work... But the gears wear tight and price was only $225... Just my time and labor to get it back to this plus a lot welding...

Yup.. I'm far enough away from crime Savannah and almost opposite ends of the state from hot Atlanta .. don't really care to visit either one

For your acreage I wouldn't use anything less than 40-50 hp range Don't get sucked into the compact 25hp tractor fever

Want to stay out of the hot? Gatlinburg TN the surrounding area and the Great Smokey mountains national park... Lots of history to check out and nice weather up in the mountains when it's blistering hot elsewhere..

Repainted JD plows .. most likely 416 model Couple of sets below you can compare

I can only guess what the belly pan and top adds to mine in the front, but I also keep a chunk of railroad iron, bottle jack and about 75ft of chain piled in the front of the pan. I can lift and pull my 8ft set of Long harrows with the added weight. I think like mentioned 500lbs would be a good...

Looks like it's going to need a new seal in the top of the gear box .. while that one's fairly easy to replace.. you'll need to check the lower seal where the shaft comes out the gear box for leaks .. the stump jumper will have to come off to replace it if leaking. Like mentioned above they can...

I have r-1's with tubes and liquid ballast.. But this is exactly how I adjust the rear pressure...if you pump them up with too much pressure it will only diminish traction when pulling ground engaging attachments.. or when in low wet areas

Owari Satsuma mandarin oranges . Cold resistant enough for the south.. becoming very popular again across southern part of most southern states

It's the third year on my satsuma trees... Frost got them last year but 2 are finally showing off this year. Got 3 more satsumas and 2 lemon trees planted this year.

Corn is up and looking good. -Silver queen -Providence bicolor and -Glacial white Also got 2 rows of purple hull peas up

Fairly sure it's Southern Red Oak, which has the U-shape or bell shape where the leaf meets the stem at the bottom. He said the leaf was young so it's not fully mature yet. Note the pics I posted above of it

We'll cull the leaves on the greens just to feed some to our chickens .. they eat them up..

Living in S,GA I can literally plant 2 gardens a year if I wanted to.. but that's way too much work and way more veggies than the 2 of us will ever need.. usually can fill the freezer with 1 crop of everything..but I did plant spring and late summer/fall red potatoes last year and made 2 crops..

Southern Red Oak... Is my answer Better picture of it younger The U shaped base where the leaf meets them stem is the identifying mark.. Yours....

I pickup branches slightly bigger than the base of my thumb.. if larger and slightly rotten (pine) I'll let them lay.... The rest gets mulched up with my Z-turn Dixie chopper .. I absolutely do not focus on all the small stuff ... After spending 10 yrs in lawn care and mulching up stuff.. When...

Still debating about running a ground wire here in the middle haven't had one in the past... And it's kept the deer at bay... But I've got enough wire left over for 1 more run around the garden .. Ill have to move the strands some to incorporate it... But might still do it ... The fence as is...

Got flagging tape on all 4 sides.. I've found this to be as effective as those that run 2 different rows of fence for deer since they have no depth perception... Has worked very well in the past ... if you don't mind the look ... Cheap easy and effective. The slightest wind movement and the...

They will be lug centric spacers instead of hub centric.. Just use a star pattern to tighten them down and don't ram the first lug on with an impact before you get the rest snugged up. Snug up a few lugs/bolts then proceed to the rest. Same theory as aftermarket wheels on pickup trucks...

Just watch your cooling off period... No rapid cooling...If too cold outside, need to wait or use heated shop and or welding blanket.. whatever you do... do not quench it or stick a fan blowing cold air on it. 7018 Rod, ER70S-6 both works fine I used ER71T-1 flux core on ar500 under a mower...

Well I've only owned 5 trucks... Living in S GA... 89 Ford ranger ext cab..(hs truck) 5sp standard btw loved that truck . 90 z71 4x4 Silverado 94 z71 4x4 Silverado 2009 Lt 4x4 Silverado 2013 Lt 4x4 Silverado.... Humm... Seems to be a rhythm here.. Not planning on buying anything new no time...

Fabbed my own just out of angle bed rails and left room for the arc welder on bottom and a bottle on back.. if needed . Can weld in place with both beside my steel table or move entire cart 25ft to front roll up door and weld to the outside of shop with either on a 50amp extension cord

Got 5 strands up and slightly tensioned... Need to wait for my new corner posts to set up a bit more before tensioning it on up

Wow, I'll be dropping seed later this month or first April .. just got a little rain yesterday on the garden after the bottom plow and harrows.. were still getting some near frost temps here at night but 60---70's during the day.. S GA ..

Decided it was time to trash the old 20 gauge aluminum electric fence wire.. deer were tearing down constantly... It had done served it's purpose for many years . Went with 12.5 gauge high tensile fence this time... Constructed a little homemade spinning jenny out of just some 2x6, angle, pipe...

Entire reasoning behind fabbing my own blade.... Yeah it may not have as many pleasure points as the rest on the market . But no matter how hard I beat it up or what I put it through... It will constantly dig and throw dirt with a slight adjustment... And yeah it's heavy enough from the start ..

Sandy clay soil/hardpan below the black silt topsoil .. area hasn't been broke for several years and the hardpan was creeping up. It's in a relatively low spot that's been built up over time .. hardpan is close to the top of soil .. Just add lime and potash as needed... Breaking hardpan helps...

There's no blade on the market IMO.. BUILT as HEAVY or as sound as they need to be ... When in doubt fabricate....

Sliced the entire spot with the subsoiler first.. then put the JD bottom plows to work . The hardpan wouldn't let me go as deep as I wanted to the last time I rolled it over .. well I could stop the tractor this time if I wanted to with the bottom plows.. Beer time 🙂

5lb leg smoked 3hrs at about 200-250 degrees ... Enjoy

With only 24 hrs on the engine, I would look at the vent tubing from the crankcase... That should maintain the correct pressure in it . The extreme cold could have it frozen shut.. the vent tubing could be clogged from frozen moisture or snow you're pushing... -25 degree weather caused unusual...

+1 on Not using a 3pt splitter... I pull the long logs to the splitter.. saw to lenght and they go directly onto the splitter. Then the splitter is positioned where I stack directly into a bin once split... less man handling less back breaking work. Definitely a ICE engine splitter in my...

Rear blade/back blade .... Able to do everything listed by box blade or land planes and way more. But requires a bit of learning curve to master.

To fight spam with first post approvals and not deter new members, requires committed mods that visit the site 24/7... If not, you have new members sitting in first post approvals waiting..sometimes too long for them to return. Just saying been there done this .. Mods have to be here...

If that's not able to happen another idea would be .. Could the thread title be "highlighted" in a color like red or pink ...after 2 reports.. so members know that its been reported and will be taken care of?

Layered the veggies, seasonings, then added pats of butter .. topped with homemade beef stock(added a dash of muscadine wine) .. then the seasoned roasts on top with some stock poured over them ... Smoked approximately 2.5-3 hrs. Finished product... Every bite whether veggie, stock or meat...

Best answer... So far.. you can feel it in the sticks of a ZT like mine that doesn't have dampeners on the sticks connected directly to the pumps. IMO, best to keep a minimum rpm when moving around and not completely at idle. Not sure if it actually cavitates but definitely not enough flow and...

Few pics from today... The larger area and the long narrow strip between road and planted pines.

@tradosaurus Yes I would start with your local State forestry service .. Texas for you? 👇 https://tpwd.texas.gov/landwater/land/wildland_fire_management/ Burning larger acreage can be risky... cutting breaks to make smaller tracts to burn individually instead of trying to do it all at once...

And if you don't prescribe burn it, when nature decides to... You can guarantee it will be a wildfire out of control more  houses and more lives lost. It's a no win argument. Has a fire jumped a break before with me, yes. Acted accordingly and wrapped it off and let it burn itself out. Burning...

Well don't hold your breath....op https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/john-deeres-failure-to-supply-parts.461359/post-6429138

Recent thread where a owner of a MF431 was in about the same predicament.. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/mf431-front-spindle.460872/

These are improved slash pines, cankers, disease spots are common on them. Tried to mark as many as he could when it was thinned... Got a lot but still a good many out there .. about 55 acres of planted pines. What's fun is trying to put those out that happen to be on fire next to a fire...

I've used my 2 stroke leaf blower, lock the throttle wide open and set it up where you want to get a spot hot in a fire on a pile...Works fairly well. Burning acreage is not for the faint hearted. Wind speed, direction (steady or variable) and humidity... Are the 3 biggest factors we look at...

As long as it stays in SC I don't see a problem or go back to CA.. as far as other states.. if there was a mandate at that Time which required it if not then seems fine

I got to head over there tomorrow I'll snap a couple pics of the clean burn

Yup....get that a lot if you are not experienced in burning off acreage of woods. It was very safe and controlled cleaning burn. Firebreaks and backfire established well ahead..

My friend thinned his pines about 3 yrs ago... Behind where the fire is burning there's planted pine saplings where the loading brow was.. he wanted to see them better. Well a little fire took care of that. Established break and backfire behind the smoke and fire in pics. Nothing better than...

Probably a better example here by "how it's made"😁

Need to have the heaviest attachment you have on the 3pt hitch when operating with the lift on. Great ingenuity!!

Ups, USPS both great delivery services here in S GA where I live ... Fed ex sucks royally ... Witnessed them tossing a package from ground level up on porch at front door. About a 8-10' span where it landed.

If that's just galvanized sheeting a product like Ospho will etch it. You wipe/spray it on. Leave for about 1/2 hr then wipe/wash it off. Rusted areas leave on for 24hrs before prepping for paint. Wipe converted areas clean with mineral spirits. Link👇 https://www.ospho.com/directions.htm Use a...

If you paint it, treat the rust first... Don't just cover it up with paint. My choice of a rust converter..

Wait until you get a call from yourself... They spoofed my own cell number and called me with it.. I just looked at it and laughed, didn't even answer. 😲

I'll say go view the same or similar machine in person... Ohh take a measurements while there😁

You never mentioned the kind of steel you used .. A regular sharpening steel doesn't work well with stainless knives.. Some prefer ceramic with stainless but my preference has been the diamond steels for stainless. They'll not only hone the edge but will remove some material for sharpening with...

Disagree with the wet grass... Cut plenty of wet grass with my ZT.. Now if you're trying to cut overgrown wet grass now that's a different story. I can still mow it.. just have to clean up behind. Kick deck up a notch or two and spread the clumps out.. still probably faster than a tractor could...

Well it's a fair point, cause you're comparing what sounds like a home owner based ZT against a scut with a Diesel engine... Isn't a fair comparison.. Besides the fact ZT with 60" decks need at least 30hp or larger engines to mow effectively..

There's better ZT mowers out there .. and better engines. Kohler command pro or new 7000 series engines will last way longer than what you are looking at. Plus 60" decks are quite common on ZT at least around here.. If you're tearing up grass when turning around you need more practice More...

What I have at home actually.. a 6 inch curved boning/triming 12 steak knife Oval diamond steel Shorter flat diamond steel two sided. One fine one coarser side. Three sided stone is out in shop, one I have holds oil all the time.. too messy for inside house

I have a digital homemade smoker, you add oak wood ever hour on the hour😁

Only knives I've have ever used, kinda of a standard industry wide. Stainless which is a bit harder to sharpen than carbon but holds an edge better at the same time. Victornox/Forshner Knives I have a 3 sided stone for sharpening coarse, medium and fine, plus keep a diamond steel for honing edge...

Wait until you have a boo-boo bad enough on your right hand... That you got to wipe your *utt with your left hand.. then you're In a world of **it.... Being a meat cutter for over 20 yrs not the first or last .. no stitches just wrapped it up and proceeded on...

Ar-500 welded in place and given a bath of Ospho Sprayed a little paint under deck . Just what I had in shop, don't expect it to last long... but the grey is bedliner sprayed on smooth. Held can about 8 inches from surface to achieve more of paint look than bedliner, so stuff doesn't stick as...

Cut rounds square, careful with knotted or forked pieces.. I tend to back up a bit when splitting those. To beside or behind where my valve is.. I never stand directly over the wood being split and offset from it just a bit on all pieces until it's mostly split. Splitting vertically is taking...

Dense Granula Aggregate

Yeah look here but doesn't seem to list as whether it's a cat1 or 2 too bad if not available in a cat1, nice link.. https://www.crosscreektractor.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=5199265

Trying to find a link where you can buy one that was a auction link done sold

The new Holland ones like on my brothers tn60 I like the best, which you mentioned. The handles serves both purposes, to adjust the link and serve as a lock

If we did make things silly and complicated our country would be as boring as some foreign countrys over the pond😁

If you think you burnt enough fuel out of what you put in. I'm still leaning it to be an air issue pulling from one of the two pickups in the tank. In this case when the fuel flows forward going downhill, it has to switch to the front pickup and that could let it suck a small amount of air into...

Sourced from the web: -Continuous “light” white smoke To run correctly, a diesel engine needs precise timing of the injector pump and proper pressure. Any decrease in the pressure or delay in delivering the fuel to the combustion chamber will cause incomplete combustion, and you will have...

I say it just sucked some air into the system through one pickup or the other since you mentioned the T on the pickup lines. Once the air was cleared through the system the engine went back to operating normally. Sounds like a poorly designed fuel tank without enough slope on the bottom to take...

Using plastic pallets turned upside down would be an excellent idea. They're strong and heavy built and would carry gravel well within them. But they typically don't give those away but do sell the ones taken out of service.

That can be fixed by a machine shop/welder.. They would try to weld as is or just cut it off and weld a new stud with threads on.

You become a professional when you can hold a beer in one hand and steer the 2 sticks with the other 😁

Never owned one but after mowing for 10 yrs on the professional side... Easier to duck out the way going under tree limbs. Easier to dismount or jump off of if things go south. Easier to see unwanted objects in tall grass in unfamiliar yards you may mow. As far as ditch...

With pitted rust keeping working the Ospho in with a hand wire brush and wipe away excess rust that's brought up to the surface... repeat, repeat, repeat.. time consuming but it works.. Or go buy a sandblaster...

Looks like a HOWSE 7FT..

How about just the smaller circle around each spindle where grass and dirt buildup?... not concerned about the rest of the flat deck or shrouds..

Title of thread should read: "How many of your friends want to borrow your tractor, since they don't own one? " 😁😁😁

😁😁😁😁

Width means everything when it comes to stability... Whether tractors, mowers, boom lifts etc.. Cut some fairly steep ditch banks with the chopper on the horizontal..

I would go still the route of the ctl mulcher operator, if precision is needed on what you want cut or not .. walk the property and flag what you want cut or left. Sounds really expensive and counter productive to have them out on foot, chainsaws and mulching trailer for what you're describing.

Here's a second blade I fabbed up with it in action. You have to notch out RR iron where the shaft/rod welds on.

Steel shaft (cut up mobile tie downs) welded to RR iron slip larger chain loop over shaft before welding...Use a shackle if necessary.. Cut keyhole in blade run chain through.. you can also back feed chain in same keyhole so it doesn't slip out.. You could probably apply this to lots of...

If it's a 5 gallon bucket(s) I'm only pouring once each... No way.. If it's a 5 gallon bucket that gets reused like a 5 gallon gas/diesel can... then yeah that would make sense.

Excellent advice ☝️

Nothing better...

Repaired both places in shrouds before replating with AR-500 plate

For anyone wondering this is what the deck looked like before I started. I sand blasted across a sandy section of dirt with blades engaged at full rpm. The middle shroud was toast in the middle and discharge shroud.. well you see that hunk and chunk of a hole.. Deck was fabbed with 1/8 plate...

Got all the plate rolled to form for the shrouds.. was challenging in a couple places to get a tight fit. Cut it up into smaller pieces in a couple of places and clamped it tight.. got it all tacked/welded in places.. waiting on another 10lb roll of wire to come in to finish up...I'm all but...

Conveyor belt repair clips to fix splits in tractor tires.. lay out all your holes for clips, fill split with your choice of sealant, install repair clips, trim off excess stud, patch on inside of tire.

Looks like you're going to have to buy the entire bolt kit for that rubber gasket. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-231_Fuel-Filter-Screw-Kit_D2NN9N090B.html Or go with those part numbers provided there and see if you can find just the gasket

You'll get a new set of o-rings and gaskets with the new filter. Have you ever changed a CAV style filter? If not I would watch a couple of instructional videos first, they can be a bit challenging the first time. Napa 3166 should be the part number for your filter, it's the same across many MF...

The end for the battery post works great and lasts fairly well... The other end like you mentioned gets buggered up fairly quick.. That's why I keep a couple of these handy use as is or snip the little handle end off and stick'um in cordless drill motor.. Like you mentioned a good brush...

Depends on what make and model tractor you buy and how much bling it has... 😁 Regen tractors and newer models in general are getting that way little by little

Just keep adjusting them like a moldboard plow you'll get it right.. and keep those bearings well greased. The disc that are behind one another will sometimes throw dirt forward and land right on the bearing housing. Had a 2 row set of Dearborn long time ago.. used them to break the new ground...

50°F outside fixing to head out and work on a project in shop.. t-shirt and shorts.. I see most you guys freezing weather or inches to feet of snow ..

Like stated not a good idea, the tines are heat treated and tempered... To be fair it can be done but the procedure is usually left to certified welders, there is a whole set of preheating, welding with correct filler, temperature and possibly slow cooling or after heat that has to maintained...

We're headed for a complete economic crash, not asking for it or wanting it.. but something's got to give.. greed is overrun in this country

That could be as simple as a clutch adjustment. You should have a 2 stage live clutch...when engaging/disengaging the pto you should be able to feel the 2nd stage as your clutch pedal nears the bottom of it's range of movement and the pto should stop or start when engaging...if not a adjustment...

The engine looks like a 10hp B&S I/C.. it's worth $350 newish shape running...the rest is free... That's 1 way to look at it.

1/2 ton truck and 10k trailer minimum as others have pointed out... I'm assuming it's further than 2miles others are mentioning here

Was always good at sharpening knives by hand on a stone since early teens.. had a drawer full of half dull bits.... Got to thinking one day how hard can it be... First few bits wasn't that great.. they would cut better but they weren't evenly ground.. but with time and patience it's not that...

Welcome, nice clean tractor ... Sitting on the tractor, it should be behind your right foot, it's just a pedal behind your right heel that you press to lock the rear diff... supposed to release when you let off... yes they do stick.. I've had to reach down and pull up on it several times. The...

Sitting on the tractor, it should be behind your right foot, it's just a pedal behind your right heel that you press to lock the rear diff... supposed to release when you let off... yes they do stick.. I've had to reach down and pull up on it several times. The pedal should be close to parallel...

Don't have any solutions for you but feel the pain... Being 6'4" when operating my MF 243 with the seat all the way back.. my knees still constantly bang into the dash.. They say I'm all legs anyway😁

Scape the ground free of loose rocks, fill in with good clay and compact it every layer you add in, dam side and spill side.. Stop filling in at the level you want the water to be and place your culvert pipes.. cover with clay... Compact.. Depending on how much water will be held back 10 ft...

If you have the tractor that can pull it... Anything like this would work just fine .. Dealing with new ground and roots don't go cheap and light... Jus going to pay for later

I see your from Quebec that's sounding a lot like swamp/bog ground,. Did the dirt from the ditch get put in the road?

Good suggestions above... ☝️☝️ Also what type of soil are you working with? Do you have them crowned? Good crowned dirt road sheds water way better .

You'll need a rear scrape blade/back blade for that type of work.. Box blade excel at digging, moving dirt, leveling Land planes excel at leveling and smoothing surface with limited ability to move soil laterally to crown Neither excel at pulling from edges and crowning a drive. That's where a...

If you were trying to improve how much material you are scooping each time here... You were on the right track . Instead of welding the cutting edge between the teeth, weld across the top of all the teeth. Like shown in the blue highlight . A common straight plow edge like goes on a box...

If you have a bad pump, it may be a hydro gear pump... They're a fairly simple rebuild.. price of new ones can be $$$ and aftermarket aren't reliable..

New ground vrs plowed ground... I would say that's a condition change???? Wet and sloppy soil vrs dry hard packed??? Condition change???

If you can think of it, it's probably available now days..on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-RemoteLync-Monitor-120V-Plug-in/dp/B00Y7OMI0U

I would say weight of disc comes in second and condition of soil third..

For a moment here I thought I was still on that old truck forum I used to moderate of immature grown ups . I swear I'm on tbn though..

That's time and $$$ every company in this country has a severe case of greed vrs quality these days.

That would stop the vabration 😂😂😂

If the L175 is the USA version check this from messicks .. about the fuel and oil conversion https://www.messicks.com/ku/85208?sectionId=218167&diagramId=349484 https://www.messicks.com/ku/85208?sectionId=218167&diagramId=349484

You can have a shelf full of different types of grease or break it down by what gets used most ... A good all around all purpose lithium grease will work well with most equipment.. you can keep a tube of high temp lithium if you grease high speed parts bearings, spindles u joint's often.. Also...

Humm might be a older Japan Kubota.. Aka grey market tractor Z750 refers to the Kubota 2 cylinder diesel And the L1500 points to a Japan Kubota. Maybe some information here.. https://tractorsinfo.net/kubota-l1500/#Kubota_L1500_Serial_Number

If you're not against a small amount of welding.. some 1/4 thick by 1.5 angle welded above and below split in rops . Drill a hole through each piece and stick a bolt with lock nut on each side .. permanently stop vabration and still able to let it down.

Best time/work saving advice I can give.. if you can.. drag/haul the logs directly to where they're going to be split ..cut to length.. then go straight on splitter... Have splitter positioned to be able to stack directly on wood stack.. that's saved me more time and back ache than worrying...

In south Georgia you can get a variety of "fill" Yellow sand with a little yellow clay in it Good ole GA red clay, with marks of deep red and purple in it . Sandy clay mixture . My favorite is what we call white hard pan sand... it's almost all white and has white clay and fine sand in...

Go full send and don't worry about limbs

Thrrow it in the log splitter with a block of wood behind it so it will cut all the way through . Vertical tilt splitter ...

Might just be me.. but the brackets that hold the tubing that tooth's slide into..look a little weak.. I've always seen them fabricated with solid plate... Welded up on all four sides down to where it holds the tooth.. Other than that looks well built

Well that's great news and they shouldn't but E-rated are well well above p or c rated tires, which we were discussing here on a 1/2 ton. If you drive a 3/4 ton or above then, that would be a consideration for the sticker to come into play. Since only E-rated or higher should go on a 3/4 or...

If you're not using the rated tires listed on the door sticker..it's information is irrelevant

It takes more pressure to inflate a stiffer thicker sidewall and tread.

A nice steel table is a must for grinding/welding work.. If you have a welder some 3/16 plate 3-4" pipe and some angle or channel for bracing you'll have a nice one fairly quick.. Excuse the mess on top.. got a project going on.. I swear I just cleaned it off..

The dragging tire method works when the ditch has water in it... Also if you have access to a 2 inch trash pump .. I have filled two 55 gallon drums full of water in back of truck.. pull up to culvert. Have a 2inch cap screwed into end of discharge hose with at least a 1" hole drilled through...

35 psi in a E rated tire when not loaded, that's way low pressure for that tire. I'm surprised if you don't have abnormal wear issues with that. You have to run more pressure in a E to get the same inflation as p-rated tires, because of the thicker tread and sidewall construction.. 45- 55 psi...

Yeah, I mainly use the subsoiler to keep the hard pan which is very close to the topsoil in my garden opened up for moisture to reach plants during dry times. The garden area was converted from low lying area/swamp flat along a drainage ditch.

What I run down each row before laying fertilizer and seed..

If you don't have a FEL... A dirt pan, boom pole and a back blade/box blade are a must.. Gardening a set of disc/tiller and or bottom plow. Rotary cutter/flail mower if you maintain trails, brush or fields.. That's my top list

I pull a 8ft with a 52 hp 2wd... I see no problem with you going with a 10-12 ft disc.

I understand using OEM part numbers for blade replacement... But it's also important to write down or memorize your blades dimensions... I order/buy blades by that when all else fails .. 20.5 length x 2.5 or 3"width x .25 thickness x 5/8 bolt hole... Dixie chopper

TSC has a great line of tractor and implement paint. I would look at that first

Ohh it's possible, or at least it was on the last forum I moderated... But whether they'll do it or not is another question