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I really hate being “cheap”…honestly. But it’s gotten worse as I’ve aged. I try my best to wring out every possible inch of life in anything we have (frustrating many times and lots of muttered 4-letter words LOL) and the wife just says “throw it away and we’ll get a new one…” 🤪 I can’t let go...

On a side note—I had seen a video on how to get more life out of sidewall cracks (mind you this is NOT for highway use) so I gave it a try. Transmission fluid. Brushed liberally on the sidewalls. Seems like it helped some, but…I think it only helps for one or two applications…just my opinion on...

All good points…yes that mess inside a tire—we had a lawn tractor that had a decent leak, so I experimented with the foam trick, since I’d had some success with that on a dual-tired wheelbarrow. This time, it wasn’t so pretty. So still dealing with a half-flat many times, I ordered some new...

Opinions please. Previous owner put turf tread tires on our 425 (23 x 10.50-12)…hardly any tread wear but cracking in sidewalls, and a couple have slow leaks. Last time I bought a new tube for a lawn tractor (good brand I thought) it came apart real easily…new tires are quite expensive… Thoughts? 😊

On my Kohler CH25s, I have the analog SAM ignition… If a battery connection is loose (as in just put the cable end onto the post and pushed down slightly) can it cause an intermittent miss/stumble etc.? After much work on the motor recently I had just put the battery cables on, but forgot to...

Once again, a hearty thank you to you fellers for hanging with me, and guiding my efforts. I might be making some headway in getting all our equipment back to running again! (Oh yea—I’m still trying to get the yard spot prepped for artificial turf, lay the turf, then build the Adventureland...

This afternoon between a CH25 PDF service manual, a test light and some short cables, I got the new switch to work. All functions now good. I had spliced in some longer wires to make it easier to work with—tonight I’m going to pull most of them and redo, so I can mount the switch in the console...

Good point Peter. Thanks for that. Evidently that was the issue with the old switch…in trying to determine which pins correlated with switch positions I kept getting different results. Then found the “static” inside the switch. So now I have a replacement “universal” mower switch (same 5 tabs...

Actually I think the switch is done for as well—a meter on it last night showed all kinds of “static” or shorting, and wiggling the key really acted up…

For sure! What a mess…I keep telling the wife, “I’m thinking it’s time for one of those new mid-size diesel tractors!” LOL

Well…how about this—it’s fixed! Today I went back and double checked everything, and then pulled the carb and went through it again. Back together and fired it up. Voila! Runs like a champ! So… I put the bucket back on and head down the hill in the front yard to move dirt from a huge pile…worked...

Also, I will test again for spark. Another thing comes to mind…just before I pulled the head, rods and rockers, I hand cranked it trying to get my finger/thumb over the spark port to check for compression…I wasn’t able to get my finger contorted enough to get a good “feel” but it didn’t seem...

Well, another day and no cure. Received the new coil and went to install. Right away it appeared slightly different from the original (yes it is a cheap aftermarket) but mainly the frame legs appeared a little too long to clear the flywheel magnet. Thinking “it’s a cheapie anyway so if I ruin...

Yes, I put in another new plug—no difference in running but didn’t hook the tester back up again…

Last night, I did pull the kill wire off the affected side coil—no change. But now I believe I need to verify that if there are diodes in this kill wire circuit I need to test them…see a couple more videos on that….

The arcing was around the boot of the nearly new spark tester. Inspection of it didn’t show any cracks that my eyes could see… Yes a deeper inspection is warranted—but between snow squalls and high winds today I just don’t have the energy…(so far)😜 I will retest after I start looking deeper…

I found a set of two cheap coils on eBay and ordered a few days ago…we shall see…

This morning while studying videos, I found one particularly interesting…(this was on a Briggs twin) Using a spark tester like mine, he had a good spark showing in it, but noted still a problem with missing. Ended up finding a diode bad in the kill wire to that cylinder. Maybe a possibility here?

I am going in circles here…earlier, thinking the coil had gone bad, (I had pulled the plug wire off that side and no change) I decided to look again. First, I pulled the white wire off the coil and went to crank on it. The motor sounded very odd while cranking (can’t think of a way to describe...

Forgot to mention, earlier I had done a compression test—between 150 and 160 on both cylinders…

On a side note…coming off the big multi-pin connector on starter side are these three open connectors. I don’t believe they’ve ever been hooked up best I can tell. One of these wouldn’t be connected to the coil unit in some way, could it? rendering the coil inoperative? Maybe they are for...

Yes they were new plugs. Today I just found pulling off plug wire on the left side made no change to motor—but right side and it nearly died. So I’m thinking it’s bad coil or related. When I first moved in with my wife almost 4 years ago she had this and it was running on one side then, I found...

Yes it was/is. But I’ve since found today by pulling off plug wire from that same side, no change in motor. However, left side and engine nearly dies.

And…I had checked the plugs last night after about a minute of run time. The right side plug was very hot to the touch, but the left side was much cooler. Both plugs looked fine with no residue/wetness/color issues…

Oh, and I needed to move my towable backhoe urgently so I hooked up and pulled it…up a little hill, increased the throttle, and it ran great under that load…

Ok guys…the saga continues (but doesn’t seem to be AS BAD😊)… Motor starts great and fast, the “jumping” (picture a motor loose mounting type of movement) is better after several startups. Low idle engine almost sounds normal with just a hint of some odd sound from exhaust intermittently. Sped up...

New oil and filter, and forgot to mention that before the initial fire up the day before, I had went through the nearly new aftermarket carb with a good cleaning. (Don’t see any obvious issues, but I thought the float moved a little too far up into the body so I tried to adjust it a little…I...

Well…no joy. I started it again a little bit later after adding more fresh gas. It started so quick—almost the moment I turned the key! But I shut it off quickly, because I meant to check the oil. (I had just changed the oil with the good stuff before I tore it down. But wanted to check anyway.)...

For some reason now I can’t seem to attach a video..

UPDATE: March 27, 2024 FINALLY! Back together today and nervously gave it a crank. New tank of gas, some Choke, cranked about 5 seconds and Voila! Fired right up. It seems to be “jumping” a little at this low speed. Ran it about a minute and shut it down. During that run period I thought I...

Odd, but I’ve replaced carbs on a couple of lawn mowers, small tractor, and chainsaw with cheapies and so far so good. But yes, I believe it would be better with OEM parts. But EXPENSIVE. When I can, I’ll get the good stuff. For example, I’m having to do a lot of top end work on a finicky Kohler...

I’m gonna give it a shot 😁

Ahhhh…I’m with you now…I’m a bit slow—more everyday! LOL

Looking at more documentation, I can’t see where the “jug” separates from the block…am I missing it?

When I first saw it, I had been considering…(keep in mind I have no real “skill” but have always relied on trial-and-effort, printed materials, and plain old ‘I think it works like this—what if I try this?’”😆) …that since that depression opened up that space just a little more that it would be...

Oops—my fault! I didn’t think it through enough, and when you mentioned “jug” I remember that from a small Honda cycle motor I was working on a couple years ago… So that “jug” separates from the block as well, enabling it to be replaced? I think I need to study a little more—I thought I had it...

After more consideration I’m going to leave it alone—go back to the original motor. Got a new carb ordered for it and that should get it back up to snuff. Thanks for the help and interest. 😊

I mistakenly ID’d my motor as a Predator—after a better look I find it’s a “Starter USA Professional” model. (Must have been before Predators) …and another label says it’s a “gosoline” engine! 😜 It’s shaft mics out at .62 mm or 5/8”. The original MTD final shaft end mics at .87 or 7/8”. 😯

LOL I probably didn’t detail it correctly—the impression is in the block part. I think the heads are ok after a little prep work, and all new parts to boot…but… Now…I’ve come to the point of it being apart so long I kinda dread starting back on it. (Seems to have gotten worse with age😯) I have...

Hmmmm…I held a tape measure under the shaft and tried to line up with both sides of the shaft to come up with the 5/8”…I’ll put a micrometer on it shortly and see what I get for sure…

I hear you! 😊 It sure alarms me too, but I haven’t gotten back to it this evening (had to make long distance run with wife for groceries and meds, and it’s been pouring the rain…arrrrggggg) Also, it appeared to me that the surface area of the impression is smooth—I would have thought it would...

MTD 5hp chipper shredder that I want to replace the motor with a new (but about 6 years old in box) Harbor Freight 6.5 hp motor. Best I can measure, I get 5/8” diameter shaft on the HF, but the original motor has a 7/8” diameter at the end of the tapered shaft. I’m seeing lots of adapters out...

It’s hard to see, but I wouldn’t call it a dent (a depression from the top surface down towards the bottom)—it’s more like the side of the bore is missing some surface material…make sense? Sorry, I should have lowered the piston down to examine closer…I’ll do that shortly and repost…

Hmmmmm…sure is! 🤔

In trying to get started with reassembly, I discovered an odd thing—a slight “depression” on cylinder 1. It’s at the top of the bore, on the exhaust side…

Update: sorry, not really an update…yet. I’ve been covered up with other stuff and “honey do” items…and the nasty weather hasn’t given me many opportunities. But I do have all the parts now to get this thing back together and see what happens. Will update then. 😊

Yep…I believe I’ve read a few comments from that mention as long as it’s a high quality oil with the proper specs, then it should be fine…at this point, and seeing the carnage up close and personal, I’m running a bit “sceert” for now, so I’ll stay with the Kohler stuff and pay more attention to...

Oh and that Kohler oil? At Tractor Supply I paid 14.99 per quart! Ouch!

Plus, I’m gonna start using the recommended Kohler 10w-30 oil. I’m guessing the zinc and any other additives in it make the difference in keeping those touchy lifters from sticking solid. I decided to try and “rejuvenate” mine, since I found them to be so simple…but…I may have to rethink...

Excellent!! 😊

For sure! One thing I’ve realized—these motors are sure picky and appear to be subject to breakdowns more-so if best maintenance isn’t done. I think that the previous owner and then me, made things worse with wrong oils, and not enough frequent oil changes. (Heck, I had a Murray push mower for...

Spark plugs were intact. 😊

I believe it’s steel. I can’t feel any flats so it appears to be round but the ends I can’t tell if original or maybe lopped off… No, this was the opposite cylinder (1) supposedly the “gooder” one 😉 First off I thought it could be a carb butterfly rod (I had one on my lawn tractor 17hp Kohler a...

Whoa!! I wouldn’t have thought to look at the compression tester setup. I think that piece is too big to be part of it, but…I’m going to check it out for sure… Thinking more about it…I’m trying to imagine how it got there. Maybe it wasn’t there until AFTER the motor started this episode? But…it...

Received the gasket sets this morning…2 more lifters to rejuvenate and then let’s get it back together and see what happens.

More…in my hand is a small metal rod that was laying on top of the piston, along with a couple of small “dark colored wads of thin fibrous material”…looks like the valves show some marks where it was bouncing around in there…I don’t have a clue…

The plot thickens LOL…pics yesterday from cylinder 1…

Ahhh…good catch. I wouldn’t say it was an “easy tap-in” as I delivered short, sharp blows to a socket that fit exactly around the seat. But, I will try that peening method too. 😊

Also, that exhaust valve seat that was a little cocked, I tapped in back in ok…

Rough looking, huh?

Waiting on parts to arrive…in the meantime, here are more pics of the cylinder head and stuff…🥴

Talked to Keith at Power Trac earlier—he got me the needed info. 😊

I sent an email to Kohler…probably no help…LOL…I’ll see if I can find a serial number somewhere then give them a call. Thanks again!

My Kohler CH25s motor had a tag that listed the Spec number, but most of the label has worn away now… How else can I find out what my Spec number is?

More from the valve area:

Sunday night…decided to disassemble a hydraulic lifter. I chose the intake side on this problem cylinder, and I had previously taken it out and bled it before putting back in. Tonight after pulling it, I found it to be stuck again—took an extreme amount of force to get it to bleed again… Here...

2manyrocks and…her nice and polished stainless steel French door fridge ice maker went on the fritz awhile back. Ended up a couple of problems compounded the problem—after a couple weeks of hit-and-miss episodes of working on it, she was ready to just go buy a new fridge! What? I said…no way— it...

(To be fair and honest, this was from Sunday evening depart to Friday evening return, 2 trains, 2 busses each way, but we spent our FL time visiting the new 18 month-old granddaughter and daughter, and even squeezed in building a heavy/duty swing/play set for them.😊❤️)

We’re FINALLY (hopefully) about to return home this evening after this Florida Amtrak train/bus round trip fiasco, and I’m now “recharged” and ready to tackle this motor with a renewed vigor! 😆🤪 (One more hour on this bus transfer, then board our last train for another 6 hours—let’s hope all...

IF after replacing lifters, gaskets, etc… Would trying to run some “cleaning” options to lessen the varnish, gumming, sludge, etc., cause some possible ring leaking??

Wow! Yes, all very true and good, deeper thought. Replacing them and I believe “priming” them is in order as well.

Yes I’m going to replace them as well.😊

LOL my wife laughs at me—I can’t let it go, like so many other things I’ve fixed…it might take a little time to dig into as much info/how-tos/videos as I can, but it always feels good to finally fix things. (Along with plenty of frustration and aggravation/4 letter words😆) Wife says “just buy a...

I’m still holding out hope I’m “getting off easy/cheap”…LOL Yes, that’s what I meant by “relapping”. The guides—my thinking is the valve was sticking because of the buildup of crud, varnish, etc. I mean, it made a believer out of me to see how bad things can look with bad or wrong oils, lack of...

Geez…I’m blown away at how much crud and baked-on deposits I’m finding…later last night I was able to remove the exhaust valve from head and best I can tell it looked ok, just pretty cruddy. I THINK after cleaning it and the guide it looks like it’s settling better, but I’m not totally sure… So...

Here are more…

Here’s the first look…

Sure ‘nuff! Yesterday found exhaust valve not fully sealing and a broken head gasket…

I believe you and some others are right—further examination yesterday I found exhaust valve not fully closing, and the head gasket has break just about the area where the exhaust bolts to the head.

Yes sir…hopefully tomorrow I’ll get a look.

I don’t think so, because I see them all moving when I bump it over (both valve covers are off.) And I can push all valves down with my thumbs and they seem to operate freely with good spring pressure. But, I could be wrong…🥴

Finally…got a break in weather and other tasks to spend a few minutes back here… Somehow I now have compression on cylinder 1, but still nothing on the original problem cylinder 2. I injected air into this cylinder and had some leakage through the exhaust pipe. Oddly, while cranking the motor to...

Thanks very much for that! 😊

Thanks for this straight-ahead, more simplistic approach. That’ll be my very next move. (IF this danged cold and wind would let up! 🥴😜)

You know, I’m slowly starting to change my outlook on some things—especially the “I’ll eventually figure this out…” meanwhile, other things just keep popping up and my age is slowing me down. IF…it didn’t appear to be so much hassle getting all the hydraulics away from the motor, I’d probably...

If…the engine isn’t running and I’m just bumping it over, would the electronic system have anything to do with stopping the physical action of the piston pushing up air out of the spark plug port? I would think at that point it’s just a mechanical action/process and if rings were good it would...

Thanks for that link… I’m just baffled by the sudden loss of compression on both sides. My warped sense of “thinking” can’t get unwrapped on that. Seems like it should be so simple to find but yet I’m fumbling my way around. (I think my biggest problem is I have too many problem projects that...

The latest has been: no compression at all—zero—on both cylinders, about three days ago.I haven’t had much time to go into it very much since then with so many other fixes that have popped up🤪. I’m curious to try Peter’s suggestion with the oil in the cylinder and see if any different result...

Good thinking Peter…I had wondered before I found the bent push rod, and just after I found gas in the oil, about compression. I had spark on both sides. So when I did the compression test about that time, I thought maybe the mixture had stripped all the years of “use and bad oils” away from the...

Yes, both pistons are moving.

Yes sir, both sides checked, and again just a little bit ago. All look fine. I’m gonna rig up a remote start button so I can position myself to observe better going forward. This afternoon though, I am concerned about the right side bank (looking from rear of the tractor)…the springs look to be...

I went ahead and took off the bypass hose, just in case.

No problem at all with the “basic” questions. Many times I’ve found, I can overlook the simplest of things. 🤪 Let’s see: All four push rods look fine and are working. Looking into the cylinder I can see the piston moving when starter is bumped…

I still have the bypass hose in place—surely that doesn’t have any effect?

In my last post, it was about getting in “tow mode” and about the engine quitting on bad gas, etc. So I was able to get it moved with the Bypass Hose installed. Got it home and ordered a new push rod for the bent one. Changed the oil and filter. Took the lifter out and bled it (it was solid as...

That’s an interesting question …no warning signs that I could recognize. After the son-in-law put the watered gas in and tried to run it, he drained it all back out, and put in fresh gas. By the time I got there, he had it running again, but just barely. He said it would just start popping and...

I love it. It’s a bit over my head but I’m learning more about it as I find books/manuals. All of the running gear was rebuilt and it’s really in great shape. My neighbor/friend works for a local mom-and-pop equipment place and does most of their rebuilds on dozers and such. He did the finishing...

Thanks much for that great info. I’ll file it with my other notes, and hopefully I won’t have to use it soon…😊

Yes, the Crawler has been fun so far, with a steep learning curve on handling the blade. (I’m slowly getting better at it but still a ways to go) And learning its systems—one, I’m in a different world with stuff so heavy one needs machinery to lift/maneuver… Yep, I’m in the “hills…mountains” of...

I did call Tazewell yesterday and talked with Terry. He sent me straight out to pull the low side valve cover off, and look for a bent pushrod. Sure enough, as soon as I pulled the cover, I saw the Exhaust rocker cocked nearly sideways, and its pushrod bent. Called Terry back and he laughed...

Oh for sure! LOL 😆 First, my curiosity is harping at me to dig in and see what has actually happened. Luckily, we don’t use it very much (I picked up a 1950 IH gas crawler/dozer several months ago that is FUN) so I have time over the winter to tear it down/replace etc. I really hoped I could...

I’ve just discovered I’m in the same boat. (Looks like I’ll have to replace or rebuild our CH25s in the PT425. It’s about 24 years old and has done a ton of work before me. Yesterday I found it has gas in oil, one cylinder at 90psi, and the other at near 0psi. And, it still has that old...

Thanks much for this posting. I just happened onto it this morning, after a few hours of tossing and turning sleep, wondering how to proceed with my new, big engine problem. This series of pics and your directions have given me a new energy. 😊

Geez…I hadn’t thought of that—that bit of oil I drained was prompted because the level on the stick looked high. Doh! 🤪 Thanks for helping me discover another clue. 😊 (We have a fuel cutoff that we religiously keep shutoff when not being used, but I’ve felt for a while that it wasn’t completely...

Compression…funny you suggested that…I did that today and ouch! One cylinder measured 90psi and the other barely moved off the zero—maybe 10psi? And…I drained off a little oil from the bottom, and it’s THIN. And smells like some gas in it…🥴 Not looking good at all…

Here is a pic I grabbed off the net (not mine) but looks just like it. This pic doesn’t show the second coil unit on the right, and…my coil units have two spades/ two wires each…

Here is the spec tag which over time has become illegible but I think it is a CH25 and maybe an S added to it ? EDIT: closer viewing, could it be “725”? REVISED EDIT: upon more investigation, I now believe the “725” part is from the FAMILY line, and on the next line I can make out “CH25s” And...

Well…Sat. Dec 23…Captain’s Log (😆) Failure…again… New carb installed, new fuel filter, new lines. No difference. Still will not start/run. According to my inline spark tester, both cylinders are firing. I pulled plugs and cleaned (they didn’t look too bad.) With heavy battery charger hooked up...

Hmmm…let me attach a pic and see if that helps…

Couldn’t find a small enough replacement o-ring, so now I’m waiting on a new carb to arrive. (And the snow and cold to moderate 🥴)

Hmmm…from yesterday and before I took off carb again and have on bench… Usually a hit or two of starting fluid and a good strong boost and this thing fires right up. However last few times I’ve tried, I don’t get hardly any “firing” while cranking with the fluid. It’ll pick up just a little as...

Good idea… I took the carb off again and figured I’d go through it once more (plus the fact I learned after I’d reassembled it last time) and this time pull out the little “emulsion tube” and clean it. (When I was in it last, I noticed it sticking up with a little o-ring on top—tried to gently...

Update: Friday I prepped the trailer, welded on a 12v winch, fashioned a power supply cable with a reversing switch. Grabbed an old fashioned chain hoist as well then headed out to get this thing loaded and back to the house. That little tow valve on the bottom of the pump? That sucker said “I’m...

Sorry…I was sidetracked from the 425 when my TrailWagon broke a shift cable. I was trying my hand at soldering a barrel end on. (So far nothing but failures—I have two ordered, but…I still have to try LOL) I had to cut off existing barrel end of a new cable and run it into the stock outer cable...

Kohler v-twin

Yes. First ran it straight, then new hose and filter.

That shifter cable—arrrrggggg!! I have wasted so much time trying to make that work. I’ve tried solder, and low temp alum rod, which has made ugly messes and about the time I’d have it fairly close in shaping, the cable would pull out! (I hate there is nowhere close to get one and usually have...

Thanks again guys for the support… Yesterday—failure again. New battery, didn’t make much difference in the cranking. Spark plugs didn’t look bad but I cleaned them up anyway. And, spraying a liberal amount of starting fluid hasn’t given it much help at all either. I cranked a little longer...

Andrew called me back this morning, and said after reviewing my serial number, my pump should have the tow valve on the underside of the pump, and a couple of turns on that should let me move it, if need be. Later this morning I’ll first try the new battery and see if that does the trick. (And...

That crossed my mind, and I wondered what might be a good unit. Thanks for the recommendation. I have a 12v winch sitting in a shed…hmmm…but I have an old-fashioned chain hoist that would probably be less hassle. Hoping I don’t need it…😊

Went today and bought a new battery and had a bypass hose made up. Also called PowerTrac/Tazewell and talked with Andrew in shop. (He gave me some info but to be sure he said he’d have someone call me back in the morning and detail it better) Loaded up tools and battery in our TW200 TrailWagon...

Yes sir! In all my searching, yours was all I could find that was pretty thorough! Thanks for that!

Yes I did that already…I thought I did a pretty good job of thoroughly cleaning the carb, jets and such…but I think with the big change in colder temps have zapped the battery and there isn’t enough juice to get it to fire correctly. (This unit has always been temperamental in starting in cold...

My PT425 was borrowed, taken out in the woods, and some bad gas was put in it…long story short, I need to get it back home where I can dig into the non-start problem now. So… I need to “tow” it—drag it up on a trailer. My manual says on way page that a “bypass hose” is to be hooked up between...

I’ll look into this as well. Thanks much for your input.

Thanks much for the info. Let’s see: Against an object, yep does it too, but I believe that feels more “normal”…outside temps are HOT and humid—high 80s I believe…throttle wide open or very close… I do believe I need to adjust the pedal action for forward (been needing attention for long time...

My 425 has developed an intermittent issue—running fine on level ground/road. Then when I hit a hill (especially my long, uphill paved driveway) it wants to bog down and sounds like the Kohler engine slows to the point of almost dying. If I let up on the pedal, or feather it some, then it seems...

Then, hopefully, you have your buddies Mr. Smith and Mr. Wesson with you to intervene on your behalf…😉

Since then, have you realized any changes that might have prevented or lessened your loss? And if you rebuilt, what did you do in hopes of preventing the chance of that again? I think there’s a wealth of information that can come from this post, and just might stop another potential loss from...

Only when they were “Charmin” brand…LOL

Oops…I plumb forgot about this (too many irons in the fire) I have found: While running checked for air bubbles but didn’t see any (thought that was odd) So I finally traced the pedal network and found where/what they control behind the seat. I hadn’t had the opportunity to tinker with it, but...

Pe Peter: I have been sick for several days, still trying to get over it, so I haven’t been able to dig deeper into your suggestions. However, thinking more about it—the speed part…the tractor seems to run slow-to-fast just fine in reverse pedal, but only slow on the forward pedal. That still...

Thanks so much Peter…I had seen some of the notes about filter tightness…wow. One additional thing though—it was slow before I did the fluid change. Also, I’m it used to how it “used to be”…my wife’s late husband bought it used from a neighbor and he knew it inside/out. He drug/carried a lot of...

My first time changing filter and fluid on our 425. Damn that filter is a beast to get to and loosen! I parked it where it was slightly leaning down towards the drain plug. Emptied it, removed filter, and put all new back. (I didn’t try and fill the filter seeing how it was such a pain to get in...

What?? You got one too? I got mine today as well!! Whoda thunk it? LOL

Oh and I’m virtually standing on the treadle and it’s not stalling in the least...ouch...

Ah ha! I’m pretty sure the oil is needing attention—my wife’s late husband used/maintained this and we have no idea when/if he had changed it. Thanks for all that good info.

Our little older 425 sometimes loses pulling power—noticed it happens sometimes when I get a bucket of rock and bring it back up our fairly steep driveway. I’ll get about halfway and it slows down quite a bit, as I’m about to mash the pedal through the floor. I believe once it did come to a near...

Like to be added to the list please. West Virginia Modrob 425

I have a Briggs &Stratton Vanguard 6.5HP engine that the plastic carb float lost a sliver of material容nough that the needle valve falls through it. I致e talked with Briggs as well as countless others (even used) and always the same answer 登ut of stock and no idea when it would come available...