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Who makes a chain flail mower for a 70 hp tractor in the US?

You guy are probably think I am crazy, but I just have to ask. I am rethinking my deep chips on the property and thinking about scraping off the top 5" to leave just a couple of inches so the trees get better water. I can push the piles of chips to the edge of the area where the chips lay into...

Sorry to keep expanding this thread, but I happened to see a video about the tooth bars (ratchet rake vs Pirhana )for the front of the FEL and/or the rear blade. Being that sagebrush is really shallow, I would image it would be really easy to pull out and I could manage the rocks with the...

Yeah, my mower is in pretty good condition, is there any chance I would destroy it?

So the next question is what sized chain do I use and how do I attach it to the rotating axles? I was thinking of using a quick link to attach it, but my guess is the quick link probably won't last very long with that kind of abuse. Today I will flip over the mower and see how the blades are...

I kicked some of the chips away and noticed that the lower layers were not wet. Would there be any benefit to plow the chips into the soil to mix it up a bit and get the wood matter mixed into the soil?

Was your forest where the chips were under snow for long periods of time? Just curious...

The other good news of 10 acres of chips surrounding my house is I don't have any issues with the carpenter ants in the woods invading my house- my guess is they have plenty to choose from right where they are.

Good to know, as the chips seemed to have blended into the soil pretty nicely so far and I was thinking about adding more to keep the depth. I like the fact that the chips prevent the cheat grass from growing. I'll take your advice on this and hold off on getting more chips on top of the ones I...

Grass isn't ideal here as it pretty much stops raining after May and we have hot, dry summers with huge wildfire risk. However, I've worked on my 10 acres and after I pulled all the sage, I contacted all the local tree services and had them come by to dump their chips on my property; 2 summers...

A few acres. My neighbor has about 100 acres and I may offer to help him clean his sagebrush.... for a fee of course.

Good advice, I drive very cautiously, and should probably scout the brush before I go through it.

The problem I face with a big rake like that is the area burned maybe 40 years ago, and the sagebrush grew back over. The fire burned so hot that all the organic material in the soil was scorched and in the summer here it is really dry, so if I tear up that area with a bulldozer, it will turn...

I bet I'd have to drive at least 500 miles to find one of those to rent.

The original way I did it was with my backhoe. I'd pull the sagebrush out with the hoe, and move the rocks, but it is very tedious to do it that way. I am not as patient now (but I am very good with the backhoe).

I like that idea. My two head mower is literally brand new, and I hate to mess with it, but if the chain works in it, maybe it would be a good idea. Is the deck deep enough to keep the chain from hitting it in the vertical plane? 797086

Perhaps a rock bucket can be used to make the first pass to get all the rocks? The sage is shallow and will most likely be pulled up by the bucket (but I will need to sort the sage from the rocks so I can run over the sage with the mower and chop it up)>

I've got a Kioti 7320 and I am looking for some sort of mulcher that can operate in rocky ground. I have a bunch of sagebrush on my property that is 3" high and pretty thick- too thick to see any underlying rocks up to 2' tall. Do anyone have any recommendations on what I can use to clear the...

Will be picking up rocks mainly from size of baseballs to 4' in diameter on a level surface in sagebrush, what do you recommend?

Today I will take some pics and maybe you guys can figure out what I need to do.

Opened it from the outside. Opening from the inside is a pita.

I want to add LED work lights to back of the top of my 7320 cab, but last year when I opened the top of the cab, it looked like there was a large plastic piece that covered the whole space and didn't allow me access to get to the bolts of the OEM lights. To me, it looked like I would have to...

My first attempt at modifying it will be making a 3/16" steel strap to cover the plastic flap that bolts on the front go through, and hopefully that will prevent it from getting ripped off again.

Ok, a friend of mine who is familiar with diesels, helped me replace the hose clamps on either end of the cross-over, and we screwed in the plastic cover back on (even though both the bolt holes were ripped out) with oversized washers. After I got everything together with the cover bolted back...

I was hooking up my backhoe to my 7320 by lifting up the backhoe frame with the hydraulics and I then backed the tractor up so the "C" connector under the tractor would support the backhoe frame, but apparently my frame was too high near the middle of the tractor and as I was backing up, the...

I did that and hinged it open and the mounting bolts seemed to be located under the plastic liner between the roof and the interior. I ended up gutting the cases of the work lights and putting a wood block in them and attached the new lights to the wood block. Not an ideal solution, but it got...

Last fall, with a snow storm looming I figured I'd swap out the work lights on the top of the cab to LED's, but upon opening up the top of the cab, I noticed there was a 2nd skin that didn't allow me access to the bolts that the light brackets attach to the tractor with. Not having a barn or...

There is one NAPA store in town but the local mechanics are wary of it, so I'll go to Reno and get the pros to do it.

It's a pretty tight squeeze to get into the portion of the boom where the hose rubbed raw. I stuck my hand in as far as it goes and the only "sharpness" I feel in there is the edge of a steel plate- not feeling any welding imperfections. Could it be that the hose was damaged before they...

I live in Truckee, CA, 6000 ft elevation- vacation-capitol of California where silicone valley billionaires play in their 10,000 square foot "vacation cabins". There are maybe a handful of small tractors in a 20 mile radius (nothing grows up here so there are no real farmers). If people need...

Also, how would I load the backhoe on a trailer? where could I wrap a chain around it and not mess it up loading it?

Not being a mechanic, is it better that I haul the backhoe down to the dealer to fix? How hard would it be to grind the burrs down? Would I need a special tool? It looks pretty tight in there, and I am not sure what kind of tool would get into that space to grind it down. The dealer said they...

Thanks for the heads up, when I pull that line out I will check for sharp edges.

Called the dealership. Problem is the backhoe has a one year warranty on it. I bought it in spring last year, but I didn't actually get it installed on the backhoe (at the dealer) until early fall, and it wasn't on the tractor all winter because it snows here and I had a plow on it. The dealer...

Leak is not constant, only when using the hoe moving the boom in and out.

Problem with a warranty call is the dealership is over an hour away and he charges $250 to travel each direction and I don't have a trailer to haul it down to him. The drip seems to be coming from where the boom attaches to the back of the backhoe at the articulation point. There isn't any...

I have a new Kioti 2485 backhoe on my 7320 Kioti with probably 20 hours on it and I am getting a constant stream of hydraulic fluid dripping/streaming from the sideways articulation point of the backhoe. It's not obvious where it is coming from - perhaps a blown hose that goes to the boom? It's...

With the blades set below the rail, you'd always be cutting the road- except- the rails woiuld be riding on the surface- please further explain your thinking on this. My road has lots of woop to doos that are maybe 8 feet long then a little dip of 4 feet then another 8 foot woop. I figured the...

I picked up a land plane for my mile-long driveway and since we haven't gotten any snow here at Lake Tahoe this year, I have been working on my driveway trying to crow it with my rear blade but the downside of using the rear blade is the woop-dee-doos created by not having a longer side rail so...

I ordered the correct size, but it looked small to me, yours are about the same so I guess I am good. I wanted to make sure before I cut them. Thanks

I ordered the chains to fit my tires online and I am in the process of installing them. To me, it looks like they aren't wide enough, ie the side links should be farther down on the tire. Now I am not used to running R4's so I don't know how they should look. Looking at the tire, the chains DO...

The design of this system leaves a lot to be desired: tight clearances with no ability to apply grease, other than slather it all over the place and is what I did when I finally broke it free AGAIN. Got the Plow on and now I am on to other things. Thanks for all the great feedback.

So, I penetrating oiled the heck out of it and started beating on the angled end and they finally started to move, and once they broke free, they easily moved up and down probably 20 times. A friend stopped by and I showed him how nicely they work. My friend leaves and I go to put the snow plow...

High Mosture warm snow is what we usually get. Slop..... and it sticks to everything and then freezes when the stars are out.

My tractor is kept outside. Sloppy, wet, sticky snow is a chronic problem in Truckee and I haven't found any surface additive that lasts more than 20 minutes of work. I think I will try the HDPE panels on the blade as that sounds like a reasonably inexpensive permanent solution.

Poor design no grease fittings on a very tight fitting pin

The handles move freely, its the pin that the handles supposedly raise and lower that are frozen, so a cheater is of no benefit.

I am thinking the heat will expand BOTH the pin and the size of the hole... will that be a benefit? How long shall I have the heat on it?

I started to take the handles off and soon recognized there was a predicament..... even when "Released" the spring is under tension, so the bolt gets hung up when trying to take it out from the underneath side. I was worried there having it half off and kinda jammed up. So I got a block of wood...

Just bought.a 2019 7320 over the summer and my new Erskine Plow was just dropped off and I was all ready to slap that puppy on, when I discovered a problem. The owner of the tractor before me apparently never took the front bucket off, and when I tried to move the levers to release the bucket...

The tractor. is always outside, still a problem.

Doesn't work. Tried it.

I live near lake tahoe, the snow is so wet and sloppy it sticks to everything. I've tried waxing my blade with a weed burner, and it lasts for an hour or so. I've tried several products- one (cant remember the name where you mix your one bottle with the other and paint it on in a pretty red...

What do you guys do so you can determine the oil level? Color the dipstick somehow?

What do you guys use to keep the snow from sticking to the front blade? I've tried all sorts of products and they work for only minutes. I was thinking of sourcing up some hard plastic to pop rivet onto my blade face- perhaps that will help. Any ideas?

Are the square rocker switch holes on the cab pillar a normal size or are they their own proprietary size? I think I read somewhere that they are a different size. I want to add a Summit Hydraulic Multiplier that has the 3 way switch, but I want to make sure the hole size will work what a...

Gave my old DK50C to my niece and her husband, had 1400 hours on it and it never had a serious problem. After they got it home, they went to hook up the backhoe and noticed that a detent hydraulic line from the hydraulic block on the right side in front of the door to the quick connects behind...

Thanks on this. I had the same problem as Wranglerx, I couldn't find any prices online.

One of the implements is a MC2096 Mower. I cannot find a price anywhere on the internet for this mower. Does anyone have any idea what a lightly used MC2096 would be worth if I decided to trade or sell it?

All fixed. Pulled the fan out, tightened the bolts and reinstalled the fan, took it out for a spin and it works great. Problem solved. Thanks for the help.

I vaguely think I remember fussing with it before, and I think I used a wheel puller to pull the fan out far enough to get a wrench behind it. The problem is I don't have a warm garage and it is non-stop snowing at 21F. It's probably frozen solid on the shaft. I just need some confirmation as to...

So, I ended up getting a driveline clutch for the blower. Works like a charm. Perhaps part of the problem was the chain was a bit loose (I tightened) and now I am now aware of a new issue: A friend was over and we were shoveling my roof and I was blowing the snow, and when I started to pull away...

Good suggestions, I will act accordingly.

Drive shaft is long enough that when I have the drive lines lined up I have a couple of inches to spare to put the "slide-ons" on the shaft, so when I put it down, it expands accordingly. Don't think that is the problem, but thanks for the suggestion.

Well, we got 24" overnight and I adjusted the blower to the lower holes, and still snapped a grade 5 shear. Replaced it, started it up and it was running fine for about 20 minutes then all of the sudden with the tractor in low low range I was slowly pushing (and blowing) snow and all of the...

Ok, if this thread sounds familiar, I opened the same thread in 2019 and with your help figured out the problem. In the last four years, we haven't had enough snow to warrant using the blower, so when I went to hook it up this season, it appears I forgot my own lesson. I just re-read the thread...

actually a button. I just got back from the hardware store, no snow in the auger box, blower raised so pto and blower u joints are in direct alignment, put the new shear pin in, tractor at idle. Push the button and SNAP! three times in a row. I don't get it.

I live near Lake Tahoe where the snow is heavy and deep. I keep breaking the 5/16" grade 3 shear bolts literally every 10 minutes. First I have to lift the blower up to an elevation where it is in direct line with the pto shaft, and even with no snow in the blower box, it is a 50/50 proposition...

you guys are a great resource and I thought I would put it out there.... has anyone compared skid steer-mounted snowplows for FELS? As far as a particular design is best a rolling the snow off the blade? I have a WR Long plow (as that is the brand my local dealer sells) and I am not too...

I used to be a chain installer on I80, so I can tighten them up, just being lazy. How does one get fluid in the tires? I would assume that would have to be done onsite? The tires would be unbelievably heavy after the water was added.

I've got chains on the front. I'll give them a call.

I uploaded the photo to on my page so you can see what I am working with. You are right on my location.... good guess. So the blade I have is a WR Long, and you can see on the left front the blade is bent back. I actually know the history of it. My wife's girlfriend's boyfriend had it since new...

Hey Neighbor! I live down in Truckee. How deep are you now? I am in the "banana belt" with 3'. Show them the photos of the tunnels to the front doors......

Nobody wants to drive out to our acreage to do it.... its far enough from everyone's route that no one is interested, that is why we are doing it.

My front plow is a WR Long plow, and it attaches as a quick skid steer mount. Bucket off, plow on.

So I will probably stick with what I have for snow removal.... talked to a neighbor who was talking about the neighborhood chipping in on a large loader for snow removal... the problem solved for pushing snow banks. So, on my tractor I bought it from a neighbor who used the winter blade as a...

It's not uncommon to have storms that dump 4' at a time. In 1951, about 15 miles from me it snowed over 65' for the season. I was here in 1982 when, in my subdivision, the snow banks were over 15' tall.

Actually, I do have a full set of tire chains on it. And honestly, i haven't had any real issues with the blower- it works just fine, but it is so slow. Now that being said, I cannot push the blower into a full bank of 4' high snow and have it blow- unless I had it in super low granny gear, and...

Ironically, I HAD one of those. An older version that I thought I got a good deal on, but it ended up that the fan belts that it used were worn, and there were no replacements ANYWHERE, they were an odd size that no one had, So I sold it to a collector. I think it was an 1952 International.

Widening the road is on the agenda for this summer... maybe a couple of feet on either side. I just want more pushing power and weight I think. The MPG thing was just an off hand comment. I know no one measures MPG....

I was afraid of that. If I want a big loader performance, I need to get a big loader. I do what you do at first when the snow is up to 2' deep, but as the depth increases, it becomes useless because the snow is too heavy. I've done the blade raised thing, but that only cuts the top of the pack...

Wheel weights? Really... never thought of that... how does it affect the performance overall? Other than reducing the MPG?

I already have a 84" woodmax blower. But it's slow going on a mile long driveway with 3' of snow on it. I also have a rear blade that I use to "cut the pack" but the snow that gets pushed to the side keeps piling up and makes the road narrower. I'd like to be able to just drive down the road...

I'll let YOU talk to her about that......

I have determined that my DK50c is too small to push the 4' piles of sierra cement snow off the side of the gravel driveway. It worked fine when we didn't have a lot of snow, but now it is struggling to keep my driveway wide. I was wondering a couple of things: Any recommendations for a better...

3 miles to the east towards Reno. I get the least amount of snow of anyone in Truckee, but I do get lots of drifting snow instead.

Just a heads up- you guys are AWESOME! Running the big power and ground wire to the controller did it. Thinking back on it, when I originally got the blower maybe 7 years ago, I hooked it up correctly. Two years ago I picked up a hydraulic rear blade and I needed another hydraulic line back...

Clips are a good idea, I'll get some tomorrow. Makes sense.... now I know what I am doing tomorrow.

Not directly. Will do that tomorrow. No changes to wiring.

That's what happens when i don't read instructions. Why do they want a 12# wire when both the leads coming out of the controller are 16 or 18#. Working on my tractor is my new hobby. This thing is really messing with my mind. I just don't get it. But I will go buy some #12 and see if that works...

Still confused. I ran a 14 gauge wire back to the control box from battery ground and added it to the screw that goes through the fender (the ground wire from the controller is stacked on the screw), so I retested the switches. The chute direction motor when I move it one way it is 12v and the...

So, I just did a quickie, and it looks like I am getting 8v on both directions now- so I am assuming if I get a better connection to the negative side of the battery I will have 12v back there. Need to go to the store to get wiring things. Let you know what happens this afternoon.

cool, thanks I'll take a look

I've got the hot 10# coming directly from the battery to the + fuse block running all my add-on accessories. Now I guess I might as well run the - to a block so all my accessories can pick up that ground too. I'll go work on it and let you guys know what happens. Thanks for the tips.

So, "bad ground" means that I need to do away with the fender ground and maybe run a sheet metal screw into one of the cab supports, or do I need to run a ground back to the battery?

That looks exactly like the controller

So, do you guys think it is a controller issue? Do I need to have the wires hooked up to everything when I am testing the switching movements?

Digital meter. Got only 12v in one direction on both switches, but I did the test by disconnecting the wires from the switch box at the splice nearest the control box, so the wires were NOT attached to anything other than the tester. Should I test with the all the wires attached to the blower...

I had the red electrode attached to the brown wire and the black electrode to the Green wire. My multimeter doesn't have clips on it, so it is tough to hold both electrodes and move the switches; I don't have another hand to take a pic.

Leads tested on switch- on the chute rotator +12 and -.01 and on the deflector -12 and -0 maybe -.01

No sounds from any of the motors. Nothing. My tester doesn't have an amp claim. Maybe I will stop at the auto parts store tomorrow if that amp meter is something I need.

So testing the circuit at the switch using the ground through the fenderwell, it is 12v. I tested the circuit after the switch.

The ground is a sheet metal screw going through the fender- shall I try to find something more substantive?

I had the multimeter on the wrong setting, I am getting 12v out of the switches.

So the storm is starting to rage outside, I swapped out the trailer wire to 14ga outdoor extension cord wire. I am getting voltage all the way down the run to the connectors on the wires from the Chute rotation motor and deflector motor. So no problems with fuses (unless there is one at the...

Thank you..... but why isn't it working? What am I missing?

That's a good idea. Thanks

So I tested the brown/green combination on both sides on the wires coming from the chute rotation motor and nothing (brown to red/ green to black , brown to black/ green to red) and nothing. I have power to them but nothing. I switched the wires around so the Yellow and red run the deflector and...

What would I ask for at the auto parts store for a connector for bigger wire than trailer connectors? I have no idea what a suitable option would be called? I have a NAPA store here locally.

The wires coming from BOTH motors are Red and Black. The switch to the left is the chute rotation and the one on the right is the deflector. So, I've got the red & yellow together thinking it is the chute, rotation and the brown and green for the deflector, am I correct? Would the drastic...

I tested the ohms across the motor wires for the chute rotation and it was 5.1 - for whatever that means. Any ideas?

I guess 500kb photos are overkill.... what size do you guys use?

Here are photos of the wiring.

I get it that one pair of wires go to one motor. I understand which wires go to the rotation motor and which wires go to the Chute motor. I do have a volt meter. A friend suggested I test the ohms across the wires of the motor to make sure the motor isn't fried. He said if it reads close to zero...

It doesn't matter, the wires coming off my blower motor are red and back for both. Sure would be nice if they kept the wires the same color.

Ok, help me understand this. So if I move the switch one way, and say I have a red and a black wire coming off the switch and so if I move the switch to the left, then the red wire is the positive and the black wire is the ground and conversely, if I move the switch to the right, the black wire...

First of all I don't know how to read wiring diagrams other than which wire goes where. Throw in a 3 way switch and I have no clue. So I pulled a battery out and attached the positive side of the battery to one of the wires going directly to the chute motor, and the other wire I attached to...

Thank you Carl and LD1 as you can guess I pretty much have no clue. I don't understand why they don't continue the same colors from one side of the harness to the other- perhaps because the plugs cannot be reversed, but once the plugs are cut, confusion ensues. So to be sure, the Green wire from...

So the rain is going to show up soon, and I don't have a shop to work in, so I am guessing with this 3 way switch thing, if I want to test the motors, I need to get a 12v battery out there and put the positive terminal to one of the wires coming off the motors, and then I run the negative wire...

"Pictures of backs of switches"? I'm sorry I don't understand what you are asking. Do you want me to send a photo of the switch box? Or do you want me to open it up and take a photo?

Ok- now understanding that depending upon the direction of the switch the power is sent to the appropriate wire coming from the motor(s), I figured out that I had in fact had one wire from one motor attached to the opposite switch wire, so, of course, it wouldn't work. So I fixed that. Now there...

Sorry I missed that.... yeah, that is probably what is happening. Thanks.

Sorry to sound so stupid, but I am assuming that it really doesn't matter which wire is attached to which wire for each motor, because one color makes the chute turn one direction and the other makes it turn the opposite direction? Am I understanding you? So when the wires on the wiring loom...

Thanks for the visual, so some of the wire connectors needed repair, so now I have power out to the wires going to both motors (I am assuming the red wire from each motor is the hot and the black is the ground). Hooked both up and although there is power to both sets of wires going to both...

So explain to me as if you were talking to your Golden Retrevier what I need to do to find which wires end up with which wires. We've got another 4' of snow coming in and my FEL won't be able to handle it without the snowblower.

I have an 84" woodmaxx snow blower and last fall I noticed the wiring from the control box to the motor that runs the swivel and the deflector on the chute was pretty much worn through by my seat rubbing on it. So I cut the wiring and tried to re-install it with new wires. Well, apparently I got...