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The PIN can be found on the left side of the transmission casting down under the left side foot plate. Where are you measuring the voltage at? Voltage measured at the battery and dropping to near zero when engaging the starter, sounds more like a battery issue to me. My second guess would be...

I believe the front axle configuration of a 1920 is similar to other NH Shibaura tractors. On my 1520, that seal is a two piece seal / sleeve assembly and when you disassemble the front knuckle, the inner sleeve portion will likely stay on the upper casting while the outer part will stay in the...

You might take a look at the bottom of the tractor about in the middle just behind where the front axle driveshaft comes out.. There is a bolt that looks like it might be a drain plug, except that it has a hole through the center that has a cotter pin through it. If hydraulic oil is dripping...

Actually it has been about 130 hours, but as I mentioned above, the bevel gears in my tractors are not precision ground, the gear teeth may not be ground at all, as shown on this photo of an upper bevel gear borrowed from Messick's site; These gears are putting metal into the oil. Over...

I just replaced both of these seals on my 1520 at 3650 hours for the second time. First time was well under 1000 hours. The seal is a multi-piece seal/sleeve assembly so the pitting on the knuckle casting is not a problem. OP's photos show part of the seal still on the knuckle casting. I...

The relay (SBA385230220) referenced in the OP's question does not carry starting motor current. SBA385230220 is commonly referred to as a safety start or neutral start relay. The NO contacts of this relay is in series with the ignition switch which energizes the starter solenoid. The coil of...

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You can replace that relay with a standard 12 volt automotive relay, but you also need to replace the socket with one for the standard auto relay. Get a std relay with a harness. This is less than $10 on Amazon. You need to remove the wire pigtails from the new relay socket. Then remove the...

1) Clutch Pedal pressed down and the 2 pto's both disengaged? 2) Battery or bad connections? check the ground cable down on the frame under the battery. 3) Neutral start relay, this is mounted to the front of the 'firewall' and must be energized. this relay is energized by the 3 switches...

Could be a tube o-ring, but when my 1520 had this leak, it was a shaft seal on the hydrostat unit. I split the tractor myself and took the hydrostat unit to a hydraulic shop to be repaired.

Update; I ordered a .060" shim and while waiting to it to arrive, I did some crude measuring and learned that the detent spring has about 0.44" travel between full length and full compressed length. Some more crude measuring gave an estimated travel for the cone of up to 0.47" to compress...

Yes that is what I meant, black means diesel motor oil which would be a rear main seal

I know this is an older post, but my 1520 did have this problem (oil leaking from the bolt head with the cotter pin) back in 2013 & 2014. It started as a drip and over about a year, it slowly got worse, then one day it got a lot worse. I split the tractor, removed the hydrostat pump/motor...

Some added info from what I said above,,, My NH service manual for my 715B snowblower includes a section for the 702C front blade. My manual is a late 90's version and covers these attachments for the 20 series compact tractors (1320, 1520, etc). The TC30 would be the same as a 1520 as far...

I do not know whether your parts are correct, but to find out quickly, the front frame piece in your photo is obviously the under mount frame. The 2 arms pointing up on the left in your photo attach to your tractors frame immediately behind the front bumper. You will see where the 2 holes...

Seeing as how there was a change in the crankcase venting after serial number 3000, it would help to know what side of that your tractor is on. As mentioned before, pre-s/n3000 just has a vent tube from the valve cover down the side of the engine towards the ground, essentially a road draft...

I jumped into it today and disassembled the float detent. I did remove the valve so I could do it on the bench (at least for first time). It did come apart easily, as I was told on here several times in past few days. (Thanks again for all the input). This is what I found The balls, cone...

Regarding the handle clearance with the cover, I don't think that is an issue. Here are a couple photos of the valve with a cover minus the boot and handle. First is with valve in neutral position Next is with the valve in the float position A thought that did pop into my head a bit ago...

First of all, Thank You for the comments and input to my questions here. Much Appreciated!! I only see 2 balls on each spool in the diagrams for the Prince valve. I also have been trying to understand why the bucket curl spool also has the cone & balls. On this Prince valve the bucket...

To add, the tractor has 540 hours and I believe it was pretty well taken care of prior to my buying it. I think the valve should be in pretty good shape. I did remove the rear cap on that spool and can see the back end of the detent assembly. It looks clean, I did not try to remove anything...

Here are some photos of the valve. The New Holland part number is 86535713. From other older posts here, and from Prince info online, it appears that the closest stock Prince valve might be a LVTR series valve. A Skematic from New Holland parts shows the cross section of the valve. The...

I have a 2010 New Holland T1520 with the 110TL loader. The OE loader valve is a Prince valve. My problem is that the valve will not stay in the float detent position when using my front snowblower. I have owned this tractor for the past 2 years. I also have a 1995 New Holland 1520 (which...

I have a fair amount of old S-K (mid 70's) which I really like for my hobby type use. Through the years I broke very few sockets and never had any trouble getting them replaced. I also have some older Craftsman sockets and I broke quite a few of those. Sears always replaced them also, but...

thank you, that is what I needed

Looking to help help a neighbor with a cold engine starting problem on a TC34DA. All he has told me so far is that it is electrical and he thinks it is something to do with the glow plugs. He has owned it since new and & the battery is good. I am hoping to find a wiring diagram before I jump...

Thanks for the reply, here is the 1520 schematic from my service manual for 1320, 1520, 1620, & 1720. Looks to me like +12vdc from the ignition switch 'on' to a fuse block. One fuse is a line to the fuel solenoid, another fuse is a line to the alternator, and the third fuse is a line sending...

I have a 1995 model 1520 I've owned since new. A year ago I also bought a used T1520 (both are hydrostat) which I've learned has the safety controller (the 1520 does not have a safety controller). Previous owners of my T1520 had disconnected the beeper and jumpered the seat safety switch and...

I have a seldom occurring intermittent electrical gremlin I would like to solve. I have a 1995 model 1520 that I have owned since new. Currently has 3500 mostly trouble free hours. Used mostly for mowing, snow blowing, and rototilling. My problem is that very occasionally, the engine shuts...

My experience with my 1995 1520 hydrostat (in 2014 at 2650 hours) was that after I started noticing a hyd oil leak from under the tractor (from the drain hole with the cotter key), the leak went from tolerable to a an intolerable steady drip (while operating) within about 50 hours. I have...

I am pretty certain that the timer relays shown near the beginning of this thread by tmeric7 are only what their labels indicate, "lamp timers", and are not glow plug timers. These relays only control the ON time of the glow plug indicator light and do not control the actual glow plugs. The...

I have a 1995 New Holland 1520 that I recently somehow managed to bend the rod on the steering cylinder which has led to a slight leak. I have removed and disassembled the cylinder and I believe I have the rod straightened. It had about a 1/8" bend in the outer half of the 16mm rod). The rod...

I am trying to install a seal kit in the steering cylinder on my 1520 in hopes that it will stop a leak. I have the cylinder off and apart, and I have the seal kit, but I am stumped on how to get the seals out of the cylinder end cap. The cap screws off and the manual shows a snap ring on...

I have 1520 hydrostat (since '95). I have always changed the hydro/hydraulic oil & filters every 300 hours. Last time I stopped for oil at a NH dealer, they did not have Multi G-134 and said to use Mastertran (both NH-Ambra oil). By looking at the specs, I cannot find where it says that...