Search results

Solid stain all the way!!!

In the Scottish Highlands I observed haymaking on slopes that I would hesitate to walk up because of their steepness. They use BIG 4 wheel drive tractors and go ONLY straight up and down those 1/4 to 1/2 mile long slopes and make great looking hay. They also use huge rollers on the land which I...

A loose nut behind the wheel!

Interesting engineering and design but very limited practicality. Fun to watch, I'd NEVER buy one!

A guy who was like a brother to me asked to borrow my tractor and saw rig to do firewood for his home. He never checked the oil and ran it 2 plus quarts low and spun a rod bearing. Engine rebuild #1---my nickle. A second friend borrowed another tractor from me to grade and level his long...

You won't sell many electric cars if gas is relatively inexpensive. Who is pushing electric cars? Oh, yeah I almost forgot!

Twice In 50 years I lent out a tractor. First time cost me 1500 in repairs. Second time it cost mt 1000. Now it's real easy to say NO!

I'm a retired supervising civil engineer and I have a few thoughts about hiring a contractor. The normal method is to hire the low bidder but the european method is a better way to be sure of getting it done right. Depending on the number of bidders of course, throw out the highest and lowest...

A three second squirt was more than enough on a 14.9-28 Michelin radial I was putting on a tractor. Two seconds probably would have worked. I had an air line locked on the valve and it seated completely. After its seated firmly and set for a few minutes, let the air out and refill a couple of...

I've had my 1900 42 years and it's still going strong. The proof meter died long ago so it gets serviced by the season, spring and fall, every year.

Plug up all the entrances but one, dump a few lbs of dry ice into the remaining hole and cover that one. No odor, no noise and they suffocate without knowing anything is wrong.

You have a cylinder that is not firing until the others ARE and helping it catch up. I would first check my injectors and the valve settings. With such low hours, I doubt that compression is the problem.

There is very little that my 10 speed 42 HP diesel can't do BUT when things buck up a serious notch, my 10 speed 65 HP will walk through whatever it is that needs doing! Get the heaviest tractor you can find in the same HP rating when you know what you want because weight is what puts the HP on...

Thank you, but I'll stick with my hydraulic beast!

A great excuse to buy a four wheeler (or a horse)!!!

If your tractor has remote hydraulics, get a male end and put a length of hose on it and install it on the pressure side. Let the tractor idle and have the hydraulic pump push the oil through the hose outlet into a bucket. When you can get no more from the running hydraulic pump, you can pull...

The biggest deal is to have some HELP! Splitting goes an awful lot faster with one or two more bodies around. My wife sometimes sits at the lever and I can go a LOT faster with less wear and tear on myself with her doing that. My splitter is run with a PTO pump and does 4 foot lengths.

Especially wheel lug nuts!!!

FYI! A 55 gallon drum full of concrete weighs a bit over 1100 lbs. (7.5 gal per cubic ft., 153 # of conc. per cubic ft. A 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 pipe installed transversely a few inches above center height of the barrel (BEFORE filling it with concrete!) allows an appropriately sized steel rod to slide...

From the photos, it looks like the inner or outer might have moved longitudinally. I assume you tried tapping one or the other in or out to line them up. If it didn't work, some torsional damage to the shaft is likely. $100 to pick it up? A bit steep in my opinion; I'd haul it myself if it...

I have 14.9-28 Michelin radials on the back and run them at 6-8 lbs when bush hogging and it rides like a baby carriage. Radials are supposed to run "squishey". If I air them up, it becomes a kidney pounder! Try dropping your psi.

Youtube has many videos on this subject. Watch and decide for yourself.

Be always suspicious of a bargain, but it's hard to argue with that word "free"! You can always part it out.

A hobby sawmiller would be a great way to go. Nice logs, easy access, and you have handling equipment. Make whatever deal for boards or 2x? with him or her or just pay for milling if you have a place to stack them for drying. The price of lumber isn't going to drop any time soon!

As a supervising civil enginerr I can attest to the fact that compaction of material is the most overlooked phase of most work and it almost ALWAYS causes problems with the finished project, usually a few years after completion. That is why there are construction inspectors on most large jobs.

Sharpen your saw chain and buck them up where they are since you will have to do it anyway. Split them later or as needed. The short pieces are much easier and SAFER to handle and the money you don't spend can go towards an implement that you really DO need!

Whichever machine sticks out 3 to six inches wider than your tires should work fine!

The tires on a farm tractor are much wider and taller than those on your ZT and therefore the bumps can't be felt. I'd get a person with a vibratory roller to hit it when the ground is relatively soft or buy the biggest tow behind lawn roller you can manage and roll it after every good rain...

Splitting a tractor is not that hard to do (I have done a few) but I have two Nuffields and being able to re-clutch without splitting it makes it ALMOST nice! I'd have a machinist check the alignment of the clutch mainshaft with the bell housing to be sure it is completely perpendicular.

When you finally get it apart, clean and coat your bolts with never-seize any place you see rust. Remember that the next poor schnook that has to remove them might be YOU! I've done this for almost 40 years and the removal and reinstallation is a snap!