1" drop or 0" drop ball mount

[bigtiller]

I think 1 inch low in front on a 20 foot trailer while fully loaded is a pretty good "target" to aim for.

 

[bdog]

If 1" low is outside your comfort zone, I respectfully submit that you are overthinking this by a wide margin.

I wouldn't say it is outside my comfort zone I have towed many trailers several inches high or low it is just that this one may see 50k miles this year and I want it right.

 

[sandman2234]

I wouldn't say it is outside my comfort zone I have towed many trailers several inches high or low it is just that this one may see 50k miles this year and I want it right.

This is why I questioned you...




David from jax

 

[sld]

I would think 1 inch low would be about perfect. I have several draw bar and ball combos for boats, campers, trailers, etc...and I always shoot for slightly below level. There is a much lower chance of getting any sway problems than when you are slightly above level. Plus, on the boat it gives you more clearance for the outboard that is 20 some feet behind the truck. I will go 2-3 inches low and it pulls fine.

I think you are fine at 1 inch low. Try it and see how it pulls before you spend any money for something else.

 

[Orange 08]

Doesn't having the trailer nose low add weight to the back truck axle when brakeing and having it trailer nose high reduce weight on the back truck axle?

 

[Diamondpilot]

There are "bumper pull" drawbars rated to 20,000 lbs, I have a couple.
I've also used gooseneck balls in said drawbars to get a ball rated higher than the drawbar, works fine.
There are also receiver hitches rated to 15,000 or more, regardless of what the truck manufacturer says. Have one of them too.

Buyers Forged Ball Mount — 2in. Drop, 1 1/4in. Ball Hole, 20,000-Lb. Capacity, Model# 1803051 | Ball Mount Hitches | Northern Tool + Equipment

Yes, same here also. My hitch that is on my F-350 is rated at 16,000# and the 2" hitches on the F-250's are rated at 12,000# usually.

Chris

 

[downslope]

This is why I questioned you...




David from jax

It's hard to read the parts you have circled. What year is this spec sheet from? Maybe it's an older one and that's why it has the 10,000 lb restriction.

I looked at the current Ford and GM guides online and they seem to range 12.5 to 17K for conventional towing.

My 4 year old 2008 GM owners manual says 13,000 lb max for a weight distributing hitch. The current 2012 GM guide is a little higher, up to 14K for the gas and 17K for diesel dualies with drawbar ball hitches.

 

[foreman Etexas]

 

[Diamondpilot]

It's hard to read the parts you have circled. What year is this spec sheet from? Maybe it's an older one and that's why it has the 10,000 lb restriction.

I looked at the current Ford and GM guides online and they seem to range 12.5 to 17K for conventional towing.

My 4 year old 2008 GM owners manual says 13,000 lb max for a weight distributing hitch. The current 2012 GM guide is a little higher, up to 14K for the gas and 17K for diesel dualies with drawbar ball hitches.

Yep, trucks of even 10 years ago do not hold a candle to todays trucks.

Chris

 

[sandman2234]

Yep, trucks of even 10 years ago do not hold a candle to todays trucks.

Chris

Well, I am not sure that I agree that the trucks don't hold a candle to todays trucks, but maybe I will agree that Ford has raised the vehicle load ratings of the newer trucks.(probably to keep up with the ever changing ratings of the competition) I would probably put my 7.3 up against most any of todays trucks in a lonegivity test with a couple of tons in the bed. The older ones have a better reputation, on which the new ones are riding the coattails of. The 2011 and up are gaining a better rep than the ones before them, but doesn't make them better than the 10 year ago trucks.
David from jax