10 Hours later . . . an update

[jfh28]

darn JJ where were you two weeks ago......haha........I will remember that for the next time...thanks.....Jack

 

[joshlee]

I see. That would be helpful at times.

Sometimes its helpful when pushing snow up and over the top of a pile that you can't climb up or drive through.

 

[J_J]

Did Yogi once say that?

Wet rubber does cut better. I thought everyone knew that.

Dry rubber does not cut as well. I thought everyone knew that also.

Cut rubber is not good unless you need it cut.

Dry rubber is only dry at certain times.

I am just rambling. Please forgive me.

Use soapy water on the blade

 

[Digger 258]

Well, I finally got home long enough to measure my blades - the short one is 60", and has the QA plate. The larger one, which has the 3 pin connection, is 72" but the leading edge is not removeable - it's welded onto the blade body as you can see in the pic. I guess that makes it hard to attach a rubber lip, even if my 425 was big enough to push it through snow. Maybe it would be worth it to still put a QA plate on it to back drag dirt for leveling, otherwise I just can't picture what the previous owner had in mind . . .

 

[Marks481]

I have chains on my back wheels but can't put chains on the front because of clearance problems........

Reverse your tires. That gives you 2-3" of clearance.

Yes, folks will pile on and say that is bad for your wheel motors, etc. But I don't think a few hours per year pushing snow is going to kill them.

Either that or turn a spacer to fit in the wheel. I looked all over and couldn't find an existing spacer that would fit the wheel's bolt pattern. It has been on my list for a while, but where I live now doesn't get as much snow as where I used to live.

 

[jfh28]

my problem isn't side clearance....it's on the top.....the tall boys have a steel fender welded on top of the wheels and the front fender was welded just a little below the rear one and that prevents me from getting chains on the front tires........I guess I could let some air out of the tires but the pressure is already so low I'm hesitant to do that so short of taking the fenders off and re-welding them higher up I'm stuck.......I just deal with the crabbing and my neighbors deal with my cursing.....at least they know where I am and that I'll be by soon to clear their drive.......haha.........Jack

 

[jfh28]

I've never had much luck in grading by pushing with this machine........I usually just angle the bucket and back drag........so you might want to consider selling the 72 blade and using the proceeds to buy a different attachment......there's lots to choose from.......haha......Jack

 

[Digger 258]

Yes, I would love to trade it for a box blade. I'm a little intimidated to start my next project - trenching about 3000' of drainage pipe and refilling the trench. I'm not confident in my ability to trench for the first time and to get a downhill slope to the trench so it actually drains. After that, I have to move half of a hill, install a retaining wall and level out the low side of the retaining wall. I keep looking at it, some day I just need to dig in - excuse the pun.

So if someone needs a 72" 3 pin blade, I have one!

 

[jfh28]

I remember the first real project I did with the machine....digging a trench........really had no experience in using a backhoe........probably took me five times as long as it should have.........but whenever I'd start to get frustrated I'd smile and say you know what....this sure beats digging it by hand........haha.......Jack

 

[ponytug]

I would by or rent a laser level to make sure you know where the trench needs to go. Then spray paint a line to follow. The PT wobbles when the soil density changes or if the operator nudges something, so you need to be actively controlling the cut location, and the angle of the trencher. I did a couple thousand feed of 2-4' deep subsurface drains with the PT. I can't imagine that all by hand. Refilling took me awhile, because I used backfilled with gravel, compacted it, added soil, and compacted that. I'm sure that with different soil types, it probably goes faster than my clay.

I do a lot of box blade like work by pulling the 4N1 to cut to a depth. Generally, it is pretty quick to cut, filling the bucket, close the bucket, move the soil, dump, and repeat. When needed, I run a tiller over the area to loosen the soil up.