Re: 10 hr\'s on 422
Sounds like you're doing real work...It does sound amazing when you consider what one man can handle compared to one man with this tool. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I checked my linkage last night to compare to the book... there was 1 difference...from the endmost slot on the speed control lever, the gov. spring goes to the endmost hole on the gov. lever (not the middle hole).
Another question regarding "lean surge", when the condition starts, can you clear it some by "inching" out the choke? If this helps, then the carburetor will probably have to be cleaned out.
It was pointed out to me that one emissions related change involves making the "choke-plate" spring loaded, such that it partially opens as the engine runs faster, no matter where the lever is set. Remove the air filter to see.
On the leaky gasket, I used to have Saabs that always leaked at the rear corner of the valve cover because a puddle of oil would sit internally right across the seam and just eventually work it way thru. The fix worked better than the factory assembly and involved these steps...
1)With covers and fresh gaskets apart...use a solvent like brake cleaner or alcohol (on a rag) to TOTALLY degrease cover and head mating surfaces.
2)using a silicone gasket sealer, (I use to use bathtub caulk)apply to all four surfaces, a very thin layer with your finger... you don't want any squeezing out after torquing down.
(the 4 surfaces =cover,both sides of gasket,head)
3)WAIT for it to "tack"up(partially cure), then assemble and torque to factory specs. (2.2-3.6 ft.lb.)...Now if those fasteners are backing out with thermal cycling, may have to do it again with thread locker(blue or red,don't remember which)
After looking at this engine, I'm going to have get an inch-pound torque wrench or get my wrist recalibrated 'cause everything is aluminum /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Sorry for the winded post, my wife says I give way too much detail /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif