Buying Advice 1023E Buyer Concerns

[Adamski]

Guys,

I'm planning to buy a new subcompact tractor to replace my aging 445 JD garden tractor. The JD 1023E seems about the right size for my small, residential estate (no animals or raw land; just grass and concrete driveway) but I'm concerned about all the plastic fenders and floorpan. I am also concerned about the high 3200 rpm speed to reach rated hp as Mahindra reaches rated hp at just 2600 rpm.

Have any owners experienced any issues with these or other aspects of the 1023E/1026R tractor? Thanks for your imput.

 

[rsewill]

Modern plastics are pretty tough.

 

[clarityconnect]

THe plastic is very durable and tough, plus it will never rust.

 

[Martian]

I've owned both (plastic/metal). I use, not abuse my machines. If you take care of your machines, the plastic is easier to take care of. This modern plastic will take a lot of damage and won't rust. It takes being hit very hard for it to crack. I'd compare a piece of plastic being dented to about a 6" diameter deep dent in the metal. My plastic fender tractors have came out of the same things looking new that a metal would be all dented up. When it comes down to it. I would really consider it a non factor.

As far as the higher RPMs. The average homeowner using that tractor ~100 hours per year will never know the difference.

 

[s219]

The plastic is tough and takes a lot of abuse. Hopefully they have a good material that won't fade too bad. It will crack with a hard impact, but hopefully that's not common (the same would dent the heck out of metal).

To me the real downside is that the plastic on the 1023/1026 looks and feels cheap. That was one of the reasons I wasn't completely happy with those models. I went and sat on an all-metal Kubota B series for the same price, and that helped knock the little Deeres off my list.

I think if the 1023/1026 had a better-looking body construction and a real fuel gauge, it would definitely help improve the image. They could still use plastic body parts if that was the best choice, but should make the fit/finish/feel more inline with the asking price. Heck, my old Deere LT-150 has a better quality plastic hood than the 1023/1026.

 

[PapeCAT]

I'm looking hard at the new Mahindra MAX series as well. Prior to the MAX those Mitsu rebadged tractors still had the same grille going back into the 90's. I just found a 1995 mitsu for sale and thought to myself - "hey that looks familiar" the MAX is a great addition. Not sure why the little diesels need to be roaring at 3200 RPM either for PTO HP...

Mitsubishi MT185 4WD Tractor w/ Rototiller ****** VERY CLEAN ******

Notice all the similarities of that Mitsu to the new Mahindras. They couldn't even replace/update the plastic "h" gated shifter piece on the fender. (see it on the shuttle shift MAX 28XL)

 

[tractchores]

For me that was one of the reasons i have an orange tractor in the next size up. After having read about cracked hoods etc i wanted something different for my $. Metal can be repaired and repainted, plastic can't.

 

[jcdogfish]

The 1023/26 are pretty nice small tractors. I didn't look at the hood hinges and I hope they are better design than the lawn tractors. That would be something to look at.

 

[Adamski]

Guys,

Thank you very much for your helpful and prompt replies. You guys are great! I have checked out the BX series Kubota, the Mahindra Max 22, the Massey Ferguson GC2400 and the John Deere 1023/1026 subcompact tractors. I'm sure any of these would nicely replace my current John Deere 445 tractor with 48" loader bucket and 54" mid mower deck. Today, I'm leaning toward making an offer on the 1026 with 60" mid mower deck and 53" loader bucket. I like the low center of gravity of this model as most of my grass is on a 30 degree slope down to the lake.

Is anyone using a tractor with the industrial tread tires for mowing landscape grass? If so, are there any issues that I should be aware of? My current tractor has the turf tires but the industrial tires would be better for plowing snow and moving dirt.

Any advice on what kind of discount off suggested list I might ask for?

Thanks again for all your advice and help. I'm sure I'll be coming back to this website time and time again.

Larry

 

[s219]

Larry, the best price I got on a 1026 with H120 front loader was $14700 (in December), and I think the best people have reported here is about $14400. So maybe figure out what kind of discount that is and then apply to your package. They are probably still running a rebate when you buy two implements, and the front loader counts as one of them.

The industrial tires are probably only really preferred when doing a lot of loader work or driving over rough terrain. In the snow, industrial and turfs are going to be about the same -- it's 6 of one to a half dozen of the other when you look at the tradeoffs in snow for each tire type, and chains may offset the problems either way.

I have industrial tires on my Kubota, and they have been fine on my turf-type tall fescue as long as I am in 2WD. However, they do tear up the field grass behind my yard in 4WD or 2WD, so I'd suspect they'd do the same on a fragile or well manicured lawn. If mowing is the priority, followed by snow removal, then turfs may be the best option. I went with industrial tires because my tractor is spending a lot of time skidding logs out of the woods and does a bunch of loader work. I don't use it to mow at all (keep a smaller Deere for that).

Good luck!

 

[Martian]

R4's (industrial) are definitely the way to go. Of all the people on the forums I know with a 1 series, all have the R4's and they claim no damage. And yes, they are better for traction.

The typical buyer will see anywhere from 10-15% based upon way to many variables to list.

I think you'd be quite pleased with a 1 series, they are great little machines.

 

[ChinaSailor]

Hey,
I tested out the 1023/1026 today for about 4 hours at the JD dealer and my humble assessment is this:

I don't think the extra $1k (or more) for the 1026 is worth it, at least for me. The only thing really different is an extra 2hp, and the rest seems to be fluff.

I would go with the industrial tires which are standard. I also have 30+ degree slopes to contend with and the turf tires will just slip n slide and be dangerous. The industrials have worked fine for me as they don't tear up the turf but give enough traction. you may want to think about having the rear tires filled 1/2 with liquid (water/alcohol mixture) to give you a lower center of gravity.

(disclaimer: I have owned a 2210 for the past 8 years - been very happy except for a blown tranny at only 560 hours)

If you are moving snow of any significance I would consider getting the front blade - it works great! But make sure you get the rubber squeegee installed or you will tear up your driveway.

The ONLY downside I have seen on the 1023/1026 is the MMM which from my experience today was very, very tricky at best. I will not be surprised if JD engineers come up with some re-engineered MMM's in the near future for the Series 1.

Anyhow, just my few cents..

Mike

 

[Wolfman]

The best price I could find on a 1026R locally, was close to Mutton Powers online price:

John Deere 1026R Sub Compact Utility Tractor | Mutton Compact Tractor Sales

1026R
Front Loader
54" Drive over Deck
$14,699

When I was looking at these (I just bought a larger tractor, but can see one day buying one of these subcompacts), after dealer discounts, I thought the 1026R was a much better deal than the 1023. I don't remember everything extra that you get with the 1026R, but it appeared that it was more than just a difference in engine HP.

 

[s219]

I don't think the extra $1k (or more) for the 1026 is worth it, at least for me. The only thing really different is an extra 2hp, and the rest seems to be fluff.

Position control is the substantial upgrade, and you'll know it if it's worthwhile to you (I can do without it, but would appreciate it if available). Cruise control could also be very important for mowing and certain field work. To me, those are the two "mechanical" features (aside from engine HP) that really differentiate the two models.

As far as the fluff, tilt wheel could be a huge factor depending on the person and the fit. I don't need tilt on my Kubota B, but would have required it to get comfortable on the Deere 1-series, so the 1023 just wouldn't have worked. I think the seat was the biggest fluff factor to me -- the 1023 seat is pretty lousy, in fact it's worse than the seat on my old Deere mower. The 1026 seat is quite good, and a worthwhile upgrade for any operator that spends a lot of time on the tractor.

BTW, I thought the 1-series MMM oepration was pretty slick -- one of the better in the business. Maybe there were some issues with the demo you saw.

 

[ChinaSailor]

BTW, I thought the 1-series MMM oepration was pretty slick -- one of the better in the business. Maybe there were some issues with the demo you saw.

I was really hoping that the MMM for the 1023/1026 was going to be easier than the 54C on my 2210.

But we tried 4 machines (3 1023/1 1026) and 4 different MMMs - manual and hydraulic lift, 54 and 60" ... the MMMs kept sliding and wouldnt completely connect or disconnect from the JD... tried flat turf, concrete and gravel surfaces..

The tolerances seem to be very, very tight on the Series 1 MMM mount/dismount hardware and as we all know over use these tractors due to the basic nature/operation get dirt, grass, debris in every corner and cranny.. The metal wears here and there and my concern would be that over time (years) mounting/dismounting would become more and more difficult.

I noticed that you have to be exact, very precisely exact in aligning everything up between tractor and MMM or a) it won't connect/disconnect, and b) any misalignment may even bend something which would be very costly. It does not appear to be too forgiving.

I know on my 2210/54C MMM that the tolerances are not nearly as tight as on the 1023/1026 and is somewhat forgiving insofar as perfect alignments go, and most anything that may bend due to misalignment wouldnt be an expensive show stopper, or something that a hammer couldnt fix.

I also dont use the 3 pt hitch at all, so any features would be useless for me.

I guess if I wanted a better seat I would get the 1023E and replace/buy the 1026 seat post-sale and install it myself.

The JD dealer is supposed to be configuring a 1023 w/ 54"MMM and the H120 loader to make sure everything works easily w/o hassle. So I will give it a second shot, but I have my reservations.

Mike

 

[Adamski]

Guys,

Once again, thank you for your astute observations and comments. They have been most informative and helpful.

I ordered the 1026R tractor with the H120 loader (53" bucket) and the 60" auto-connect deck today. Although I've received advice in favor of both the R3 and the R4 tires, I finally decided to go with the R3s for my situation. The tractor will raise and lower the mid-mount mower using the 3 pt hitch system. The dealer accepted my offer of $15,500 delivered (plus tax).

I did drive both the 1023E and the 1026R for a short time the other day. I could not discern any difference in power based on a short drive around the grass with no impliments running. However, I noticed a sizable difference in comfort between the 2 models. I like the 1026's seat (very plush with separate seat and back cushons), floor mat (reduces vibration to the feet), and tilt wheel (to achieve just the right wheel angle). I'm told the seat alone lists for $300. So, right now, I feel satisfied with my choice.

I did not choose one of the other brand tractors that I looked at because:

1. No Quick Park loader option
2. No Auto-Connect (drive over) mower option
3. No larger bucket option
4. The loader grease fittings were less accessible
5. No left side brake pedal (which can be real handy when you get yourself near a dropoff and you need to hold the tractor in place with your left foot while applying forward or reverse motion with your right foot)
6. No side-by-side forward/reverse pedals (some had toe/heal pedals)

Anyway, I'm looking forward to an early May delivery and I'll give you the pros and cons after I've had a chance to run it a bit. Thanks again for all your very intelligent comments and helpful hints. I really appreciate it.

Larry

 

[Martian]

Guys,

Once again, thank you for your astute observations and comments. They have been most informative and helpful.

I ordered the 1026R tractor with the H120 loader (53" bucket) and the 60" auto-connect deck today. Although I've received advice in favor of both the R3 and the R4 tires, I finally decided to go with the R3s for my situation. The tractor will raise and lower the mid-mount mower using the 3 pt hitch system. The dealer accepted my offer of $15,500 delivered (plus tax).

I did drive both the 1023E and the 1026R for a short time the other day. I could not discern any difference in power based on a short drive around the grass with no impliments running. However, I noticed a sizable difference in comfort between the 2 models. I like the 1026's seat (very plush with separate seat and back cushons), floor mat (reduces vibration to the feet), and tilt wheel (to achieve just the right wheel angle). I'm told the seat alone lists for $300. So, right now, I feel satisfied with my choice.

I did not choose one of the other brand tractors that I looked at because:

1. No Quick Park loader option
2. No Auto-Connect (drive over) mower option
3. No larger bucket option
4. The loader grease fittings were less accessible
5. No left side brake pedal (which can be real handy when you get yourself near a dropoff and you need to hold the tractor in place with your left foot while applying forward or reverse motion with your right foot)
6. No side-by-side forward/reverse pedals (some had toe/heal pedals)

Anyway, I'm looking forward to an early May delivery and I'll give you the pros and cons after I've had a chance to run it a bit. Thanks again for all your very intelligent comments and helpful hints. I really appreciate it.

Larry

Congrats on a very nice new machine!!

 

[s219]

Guys,

Once again, thank you for your astute observations and comments. They have been most informative and helpful.

I ordered the 1026R tractor with the H120 loader (53" bucket) and the 60" auto-connect deck today. Although I've received advice in favor of both the R3 and the R4 tires, I finally decided to go with the R3s for my situation. The tractor will raise and lower the mid-mount mower using the 3 pt hitch system. The dealer accepted my offer of $15,500 delivered (plus tax).

Good choice and a good deal! Keep us posted on delivery. BTW, the seat costs way more than $300 when I priced it out. It's a worthwhile part of the 1026.

 

[jimed1]

I was really hoping that the MMM for the 1023/1026 was going to be easier than the 54C on my 2210.

But we tried 4 machines (3 1023/1 1026) and 4 different MMMs - manual and hydraulic lift, 54 and 60" ... the MMMs kept sliding and wouldnt completely connect or disconnect from the JD... tried flat turf, concrete and gravel surfaces..

The tolerances seem to be very, very tight on the Series 1 MMM mount/dismount hardware and as we all know over use these tractors due to the basic nature/operation get dirt, grass, debris in every corner and cranny.. The metal wears here and there and my concern would be that over time (years) mounting/dismounting would become more and more difficult.

I noticed that you have to be exact, very precisely exact in aligning everything up between tractor and MMM or a) it won't connect/disconnect, and b) any misalignment may even bend something which would be very costly. It does not appear to be too forgiving.

I know on my 2210/54C MMM that the tolerances are not nearly as tight as on the 1023/1026 and is somewhat forgiving insofar as perfect alignments go, and most anything that may bend due to misalignment wouldnt be an expensive show stopper, or something that a hammer couldnt fix.

I also dont use the 3 pt hitch at all, so any features would be useless for me.

I guess if I wanted a better seat I would get the 1023E and replace/buy the 1026 seat post-sale and install it myself.

The JD dealer is supposed to be configuring a 1023 w/ 54"MMM and the H120 loader to make sure everything works easily w/o hassle. So I will give it a second shot, but I have my reservations.

Mike

It took my dealership over a day to install a 60" MMM on my 1026 and to install the hydraulic lift option, and get it adjusted. If they are set up properly there are no problems. On Mine I have to keep the left front tire practically against the guide rod on the left side on the deck. Make sure the tractor is in 4WD also. On and off in grass is the best. They do tend to slide on concrete, but many people are still doing it on garage floors. If your dealer and the service guy don't know what is wrong with it, it means they haven't taken the time to learn how the equipment they are selling operates.
Just my .02.