My 2025R Thread

[jeepcoma]

Fit the Summit Hydraulics manifold to the ROPS. I installed the each of the male dust plugs with the corresponding female half, with the idea being that when I pull them out to put a line in, I'll have fit the male and female covers together and keep them clean. It's way too busy back there though, so I'll probably remove all the female ends and keep them stashed in the toolbox or somewhere else on the tractor.

Backhoe clearance is a bit tight, but it should work fine. Seat goes up and down no problem, and operating the controls doesn't seem like a problem. It does restrict my left elbow movement a bit, but in practice I don't think this will matter - the only thing even remotely impacted might be swinging the boom to the left. Time will tell when I actually get to try it. I'm mostly concerned about damaging the wiring, since that's the only delicate bit that will be exposed and potentially my leg might rub up against it. Once I get the wiring set up, will see how and were I can tie it down to ensure I can't snag anything.

I put the trickle charger in too, have a couple ideas for permanent mounting that will look nice and let the plug be accessible without having to pop the hood. But where I parked the tractor was just a bit too short for the extension cord I had handy so I had to pull it out and dangle it over the hood. Pics later, but it'll be nice peace of mind.

Happy Easter!

 

[beenthere]

Quite the fabricator, you are. Thanks for taking us along on your adventure.

 

[jeepcoma]

Apr 14, 2024 - Rear Remote Progress

Spent some time getting the rest of the Summit rear remotes and Fit Rite top-and-tilt kit together. Most of the time by far was spent routing, test fitting, rerouting, repeat.

First I pulled out the right rear fender and handle so I could get access to the console and put the switches in. I was thinking I would tap into the cigarette lighter/power adapter that's already in place. It's hot with the key off, which doesn't seem like a problem compared to a switched 12v source. Anyway, I was surprised to find a tap already tucked in underneath.

Here is the male end that's part of the harness:

Here's the female part that was attached. Anyone know what's needed to get the pins in there to attach?

I would really like to avoid cutting or splicing any wires here as it's already set up to go. It's already running through a 15A fuse as well (guess how I know...). Would be nice if Summit Hydraulics had this option (and left or right mounting location) as part of the kit.

Here I've got the switches mocked up but not pushed in fully. I took extra care to label all the switches and wires and then compare to the spools on the manifold, but I wanted to make it easy to move things around if I had reversed a wire. Once it's all in, it's going to look nice!

I played around with the excess harness for a bit. I think I've got the solution, with just a little more tweaking. Note quite there yet. There's quite a bit of space in there, I did one loop around the cup holder with the grey bundle and will stuff the remainder under the void space below the switches.

One thing is for sure, JD went with form over function in a lot of places and this rear fender is no exception. Everything is a lot tighter and more difficult than it needs to be.

Next I started mocking up the top and tilt. These cylinders are massive.

I'll take some more measurements if anyone is interested. TTWT did a review of the Summit Hydraulics top-and-tilt kit, but not the Fit Rite. The main reason was that the FR units aren't readily available, with a ~6 month lead time. That matches my own experience! But the FR kit seems to be on another level compared to the Summit cylinders, so I'd like to show some comparisons to provide some more information.

OK here's the routing I ended up with that seemed... OK. I have the 3 point attached to a (just acquired!) iMatch. I don't see any way to set things up without having the 3 point connected to something, and this seemed the best way to do it.

The Power-Beyond-to-Summit-Manifold is a bit how-ya-doin, but I don't have many options with what was included. I mounted on the right side so there is a lot more hose compared to a left sided install. I might replace them with shorter hoses.

I used the straight fittings on the top link, and they routed nicely away from the rear.

I put the 90* angles on the side link. That seemed to work pretty well.

I had some options for how to connect to the rear remotes. I ended up using the 90* staggered connectors for the toplink to route to the top spool:

And the two 90* elbows for the side link pointing down:

Fired it up and... leaks like crazy!!! What a mess, but not unexpected. Keeping all the fittings loose to play around with routing left a couple fittings less-than-tight. Bit of work with the wrenches and that was all resolved. For testing I just stripped some of the wiring and jammed the wiring from the rear manifold into that factory connector (I tested a lot before even starting the top-and-tilt). First time I hit the switch and... it worked!! I had the 3-point position at the lowest spot and slowly went through the full range of top and tilt, looking for clearance issues. All seemed, good, so I started moving the 3-point up.

Ooo nooo!! Pulverized! Between the top tilt and the 3-point lifting, I managed to squash the inner hose for the top link. I was trying to go slow and deliberately, but where I was standing, and the number of things I was trying to look at simultaneously, I simply didn't see it. Expensive mistake. Hydraulic fluid everywhere.

Maybe I'll move the 90* fittings from the side-link to the top. Not really sure. I was a lot nice mocking up before there was fluid in the lines, since now everything is messy. Ah well, almost there!

 

[jeepcoma]

April 23, 2024 - Forks

Took a drive today...

Picked up the Artillian 3000 lb frame, 36" forks, and the backrest. My original idea was to get the lightest weight components possible to maximize the limited lift capacity of these smaller tractors, which would have been the 2300 lb frame and 36" forks. Watching TTWT's Pallet Forks. 7 Reasons Why I like 'Em Short! was enough to convince me of "smaller is better". Emailing and talking on the phone with Dave from Artillian changed my mind to get the stronger frame, but keep the shorter forks for the reasons TTWT pointed out. The backrest is removable if I need to, so for landscaping rocks or whatever else I need for maximum lift it's an easy change.

I also looked at the Everything Attachments Ultra Light EA Pallet Forks with 100% Hardox Frame & Tines. These were about 50 lbs lighter (assuming same tine length and backrest) and 50% less expensive... but I was on the border of their "free shipping" zone, there was no way for me to figure out where the shipping terminal was that I would pick up and, no idea on shipping times, and most importantly no one answered the phone when I called. Plus, based on my usage, I was concerned the unit might not be sturdy enough, so decided to go with the Artillian setup.

Loaded up:

Took some pics while I was there. Wasn't sure if it was allowed, but nothing was posted and no one told me not to, so I went ahead and did it.

Not sure exactly what was being tested, but when I arrived this unit was repeatedly being run over metal rumble strips at high speed.

Inside the warehouse. Very clean and nicely organized.

"My eyes! The goggles do nothing"!

Leaving the terminal, there was some more testing going on, this time a tractor going over a single rumble strip over and over. Not sure what he was testing either.

First job was moving some shelves that were delivered to the garage and bring them over to the basement where they will be put in. Used the pallet the forks came on for the job!

Next was moving patio furniture. Typically I carry these one at a time from their winter storage location back up to the deck. Walking 1/8 mile each way to move 10 pieces takes a while. This was faster.

Not pictured but after this I picked up many downed pine branches from our last snow storm that rolled through. It was very effective not only at picking up the branches, but dumping them into the brush pile and heaping it up where I wanted - much more so than what I could do with the bucket. The tines let me position, flip off, push away, and squash down with more precision than dumping with the bucket.

I did agonize on the 36" forks vs the 42" for a while, like most people. I have to say, I had no problems seeing the ends of the tines and pointing them where I needed them to go. Perhaps a significant difference between the 2025R and the 1025R? Not really sure, but so far have no regret going with the shorter forks.

 

[bigtiller]

I like the Artillian forks.
I bought mine with 42" forks for my 2720. At that time they offered a pair of 24" forks. I wouldn't mind having a pair of 24's now but the last I checked, they didn't offer them.

 

[jeepcoma]

Must be my lucky day! Everything I had ordered to wrap up my rear remote install showed up today, just need to run to the store and get some more 90* hydraulic fittings and I should be able to get this all in done over the weekend.

Hose wrap and protectors from Outback Wrap.

Here's the Tyco 1-1703498-1-PT female terminal with pigtail I found on DeyTrade. Would have been nice for JD to use this instead of the dummy plug, but oh well. I'm happy I won't need to modify the wiring harness in any way.

Chain boxes to add to the iMatch from Bolt On Hooks. I didn't need to move the hook to attach to the BB2048 box blade, though I've read many people have had issues. Mine went straight in, no problem. But anyway, I threw in the quick pins for good measure.

 

[jeepcoma]

Added the pigtail to my wiring harness and that was the easy part. I spent way too much time trying to get all the wires to fit underneath the console. JD could have made this very very easy, but it was an annoying struggle. Form over function unfortunately! Oh well, I'm only going to have to take it apart one or two more times in my life most likely, so it's not that bad...

The power wire I zip tied up and fit underneath the switches in the void space. I could not for the life of me get the grey cable that goes to the spools fit in there as well. I noticed there was a hole in the fender with a rubber plug on it... not sure what it's for. But there is plenty of room there to stuff a cable. I wrapped the parts that might rub in Outback Wrap and stuffed it in there. The cable is out of the way, it's protected, and it's not in the way of the 3-point hitch lever. I might add some more zip ties but this is probably its permanent home. I'll trim the rubber plug to be able to accommodate the wiring so I can seal it back up.

Still not thrilled with the hose routing. Everything fits, I'm not getting any binding or anything throughout the full range of 3-pt travel as well as top and tilt, but I just don't like it. I want every hose to point towards the center of the tractor instead of every which way. I also like the idea of getting one of the power beyond hoses out of the way underneath the seat. I will get some 90* adapters and play with it some more. The Outback Wrap Hose Boss does a nice job keeping the hoses near each other, but still free to move within.

The $10 "box of snakes" was the best thing in that box. I'd have been better off skipping the "kit" and buying a few of the big boxes of snakes, there's a size for everything!

While testing the hose routing, I couldn't help but being impressed at the amount of clearance I am getting now between the two adjustable sidelinks (I swapped the adjustable side link to the left when I added the hydraulic link on the right), the hydraulic toplink, and the iMatch.

Here's the exact same spot where I was scraping last year. Granted I didn't get off the tractor and shorten the top link as I could have, but that's kind of the point. The hydraulics really take the utility to the next level.

Time to get some work done. Forklift sure is handy. Again I didn't take pictures (too busy trying to beat the rain to stop) but I moved about another dozen fallen pine branches. Some were so big I'd have to saw them in half or thirds and then drag them to the brush plie. Forks sure beat a lot of dragging. Not as good as a grapple though...

One neat trick with the forks and the HydrosPlus upgraded flow that I found, was that I could use it to toss logs further over my fence line. I'd angle the forks down, let the logs start to slide down, and as they got near the end of the forks, raise and angle up to "flick" the log and it would go further. Fun! This was actually useful too, some of the branches were oddly shaped and I couldn't otherwise get them far away from the fence enough to not have it drop on the line.

Moved some wood around too. After this I used the box blade in the paddock to break up the spots where there is a lot of poo, and move it to the low spots. The top-and-tilt is AMAZING. It's a completely different machine. It's nice to be able to upgrade these small tractors to be just as useful as something larger.

Chain boxes are nice additions. I had two of these either floating around on the floorboards, or wrapped around the tines of the box blade. Didn't like either solution very much, and they fit perfectly in the box. Thought I'd get to use the grabbers when I was in the paddock, would have been nice to have the manure rake a couple times, but it was too small. Maybe I'll put some different size tool mounts on the the fronts and backs.

Forks are useful for breaking down low hanging branches that would get caught up in the ROPS. I should have gotten off to take a look but I'm pretty sure the ends of the forks are higher than the ROPS here. Would be a non-destructive way to test "does it fit" as well.

Two things that completely faded from my mind:

1. Longer forks. I have no trouble seeing the ends and scooping under branches and logs and such. Yes I have to move my head a bit and find the right place to look through, but I can see the ends. 2025R vs 1025R ergonomic difference perhaps?
2. Looking behind me while either reversing or box blading and the rear removes didn't block my view at all. I was a bit concerned because I almost always turn to my right when I want to look behind, but I wanted the left side free for access to the backhoe. I had to remind myself to intentionally look for them at one point to see what they obstructed. They are just not in the way at all, which is really nice. Again, maybe a 2025R vs 1025R difference in seating position? Would be neat to do a side-by-side, if anyone is local-ish!

 

[jeepcoma]

Moved a bunch of horse poo. Like, two dozen bucket-fulls. Smoothed out with the box blade. Then washed it. Need to get ready for mowing. Bent the damn front draft link again. Slow learner . Mentioned the problem to the dealer and said I've read online that it might be hitting the front loader stand. He said "oh yeah you should take the loader off when removing the deck, it's so easy of course you should do it." Not happy with that.

1. I bought the damn thing with the load-and-go. Of COURSE I am going to have the loader on when working with the mower. Also, would have been helpful to mention that issue... the FIRST TIME I broke it??
2. I paid for mower setup. They didn't do a thing. The front draft adjustment was super tight, the first time I went to remove the deck I had to use a prybar to be able to disengage the locking pins. Only TTWT's videos have shown me how nice things are supposed to be. I will spend some time trying to figure out how to stop the draft link from going too high - it only needs to go high enough to get picked up by the front bracket, and low enough to sneak under the loader stand.

Deere should be all over dealers for this crap. It's not good for their reputation. I've read many threads now on different sites from people doing exactly the same thing I have. Now I know either remove the loader, or shove a 2x4 between the upper draft link and the loader stand so that it can't snag. Seems like someone could make a product to mount permanently to prevent breaking this, I'll even give you the name - the "Draft Dodger". Just send me one and I'll beta test for you.

 

[jeepcoma]

May 28, 2024 - MCS!!

I put an order in a while ago and today finally everything came together. I ordered the MC2120 (Part number 0731XF Material Collection System) and a while back. The unit arrived, and it had the boot kit for the 54" deck, so I had to wait for the correct 60" boot. Price for the MCS, caster wheel storage, wireless fill sensor, delivered to my house was $5,295. This actually ended up being cheaper than what I was quoted direct from TerraKing last year.

Well, nothing goes my way it seems, so of course there was a problem. I walked into the house to get the check book while he did the unloading, and heard a big boom. First thought was... "glad that wasn't me".

Yep, he dropped it. Actually, it looked like the pallet failed, there were nails pulled right through. He said he had never moved one before and he grabbed it from the wrong side, so the weight was towards the front of the forks instead of resting against the backrest. I can see how when he went to start lowering and leveling the forks that it was so front heavy it just pulled itself right off the cheap pallet.

After discussion options, we decided he'd take it back to the dealer (closed at this point of the day) and the sales guy will give me a call tomorrow. I did not pay or sign any papers. Not sure what I should do. There was some minor damage from the drop, a clip broke and the plastic boot, some dents and scratches. I suppose I can have them fix it and go over everything. I could ask for a new unit but that will likely take months. Maybe ask for a rebate? Have them install it and ask for extended warranty? It seems like a pretty robust unit, so I'm not opposed to fixing whatever might have broken - I plan to use it hard anyway so the shine will come off after the first use. Anyway, will see what the dealer says tomorrow.

Talked about how to get it back on the trailer and he ended up doing a direct lift.

Ah well. No one was hurt.

 

[dodge man]

I’ve bent my front draft link three times. It’s a pain but I just make sure I take the loader off.