Mowing 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm

[rScotty]

Temps running same as yours. 180/185F at 1"NPT plug and E manifold 310/315F. Right side high on block and head at center abt 200F. Temps at top thermostat housing run up to 180 then drop back to 150+/-. Temps into top radiator very slow warming to 130 and out of bottom radiator up to water pump are 120 up to abt 12" from water pump when temp goes back to abt 150. I'm thinking circulation thru thermostat/radiator restricted within top of block /head center between cyl 2-3 (where heat caused failure of hgasket) Any suggestions on how to check flow? I can watch temps drop off when thermostat opens, and also see increase up to thermostat opening, however this cycle is not happening fast enough to keep from over temp head gasket! Last head gasket took JD 3months & big:moose: Having trouble with emogi too! Thank you neighbor, Bill

All that sounds about normal. Thinking back on my many years as a mechanic, most head gasket failures are between the center or inner cylinders - which is where one would expect it to happen. It's a pretty common repair, and in fact it's one that most mechanics like to do. Head gaskets are easy work to do, interesting, not too expensive for the customer, a chance for the mechanic to earn some after hours $$ doing some simple hand-lapping & valve work, and you usually get a completely successful repair.

Most mechanics believe that even in the best engine designs, every once in a while an engine is going to come with a head casting that will move or "warp" until they accumulate enough temperature cycles to settle down & quit changing shape.

I don't know if "every once in a while a head will warp" is the reason or not, but I do know that the typical way of fixing a simple blown head gasket by milling the old head to flatten it and then installing with a new gasket often cures the problem completely.... and even in engine designs that are known to have this problem. Of course you still have to check that the head is not cracked and that a little milling will remove any eroded areas. But this is routine mechancal work and typically what one gets is a 100% relieable repair good for the life of the rest of the engine.

And yes, it is known that some engine designs are more likely to require this head gasket fix than others. I have one myself that is known for that problem. But even on those engines we still expect that if we catch it in time that the cure with milling and a new gasket is 100%. Myself I'd rather have a good old head that was aged and then milled flat than a brand new one.
YMMV
rScotty

 

[TractorGuy]

The temps you are reading are normal. You don't want your engine to run too cool.

As far as the heat goes on your feet I was combating that on my 4310. Here is the thread I did on my solution for that. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-engine-heat-4310-a.html?highlight=heat+vents

 

[PILOON]

Have I missed it?

or have you flushed with a cleaning solution.
Generally they are a caustic mix of some sort and want to dislodge all sorts of crud including caustic build up in the radiator cooling compartments.
U generally follow up by rinsing to neutralize any further caustic action.


My CUT service called 4 doing @ 100o hrs, I did it!

 

[Nutrunner]

I apologize for not getting back ,they can't keep me down! Yes Piloon, I did use automatic dishwashing detergent. The head and radiator were both boiled out before replacing head gasket. I flushed twice using detergent and ran only long enough to warm to abt 180/190F. Then flushed 6-8 times with clean tap water running till warm/180+-. Still need to remove drain on other side and flush some more and will probably ask JD which flush additive to use. Thank you all very much. Your assistance is greatly appreciated! Bill