Mowing 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm

   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #11  
Thank you very much for your response. I flushed out block um-teen times yesterday and removed lot of rusty crud. Cooling system has been abused/neglected for quite some time imo. (Discovered the thermostat has 2stages.) Temperature gun will be here today.
Thanks again. Bill
 
   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #12  
cars have changed over to electric fans decades ago, they draw less HP, and give better cooling. the power hungry engine driven fan is old technology. I'd remove that!.

Really ????
 
   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #13  
Just want to make sure you didn't overlook the block drain when flushing the system? On my LX's 4TNV88 engine, the block drain is 10 O'clock of the oil filter near the bell housing and has a HEX nut to turn to open the valve. Since the 110 TLB config may vary, I suggest checking the service manual.
 
   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #15  
Thank you Katahdin, I found this in the Operators Manual just this evening. (Late reading again) I took out the 1? pipe plug (1/2 sq. drive) on the other side and a plug on water pump. Temp. gun tells me top middle of block and head are holding heat longer than other areas. New thermostat seems to be limiting flow before hot coolant is pushed on thru. I値l be flushing again thru the drain this time. Could remover soft plugs too provided I can find replacements! Thanks 👍 again, Bill
 
   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #16  
Yes, its a 1 inch NPT plug. That's a good place to install a block heater if you need one. The Zerostart block heater model is #3100003 and is $45 currently on Amazon.

What temps are you seeing with the heat gun?

During a one hour PTO generator test in September I saw 185 degrees on the waterjacket near the pipe plug, the exhaust manifold was 330 degrees, 68 degrees was the outdoor temp. My engine is a 2012 model with 500 hours and the cooling system is clean.
 
   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #17  
I am having similar issue with 110tlb and wondering if you have resolved your overheating problem. I have replaced headgasket, boiled out head and radiator, new thermostat and water pump. Im wondering if a airlock can be causing temp spike and how to resolve? I would greatly appreciate any help! Thank You, Bill

I wondered the same thing last month when trying to find the cause of a sudden temperature rise on my John Deere 310. I Replaced the return hose from thermostat to radiator and the temp sensor with no effects. From the way the hose is shaped I know that an air lock is possible, but from my work installing in-floor hot water heating systems I know that any airlock can be overcome by a relatively small pump - and the JD has a strong pump. So no worries there.

To check if maybe I'm wrong about the impossibility of being an air lock in my new radiator hose I taped that candy thermometer to the radiator hose so I could directly check if hot water was flowing in the hose. It was.
Still, my tractor's dashboard temp gauge showed too hot although the motor didn't seem to be running hot, and the coolant didn't make the hose feel too warm.

So Here's what else I did:
1. Took out the thermostat and tested it in hot water with a candy thermometer.
2. Bought a new temp sensor and used it to test the temp gauge.
3. Removed the radiator fan side shields and sprayed the radiator from back to front with warm household water pressure, soap, soft brush.
4. Put the shields back on with new sticky-back foam that seals good to the radiator.
5. Did a Preston Radiator flush. i.e. Distilled water, Prestone, idle 15 min. then purge. Inspection mirror shows it is cleaner.
6. Refilled with JD's 50/50 water/glycol mix. 50/50 mix is best for transfering heat & for cold protection.
7. checked the water pump fan belt.

Result: Whatever is going on, I am now confident it isn't in the cooling system. The cooling system is working as good as designed, and you know JD didn't design it to overheat.
rScotty
 

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   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #18  
180 degree coolant and 155 degree hydraulic oil after 2 hours of run time would not give me a shred of concern. Those temps are 100% normal and there is substantial room for a 20-25 degree increase in each reading.
 
   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #19  
Yes, its a 1 inch NPT plug. That's a good place to install a block heater if you need one. The Zerostart block heater model is #3100003 and is $45 currently on Amazon.

What temps are you seeing with the heat gun?

During a one hour PTO generator test in September I saw 185 degrees on the waterjacket near the pipe plug, the exhaust manifold was 330 degrees, 68 degrees was the outdoor temp. My engine is a 2012 model with 500 hours and the cooling system is clean.

Temps running same as yours. 180/185F at 1"NPT plug and E manifold 310/315F. Right side high on block and head at center abt 200F. Temps at top thermostat housing run up to 180 then drop back to 150+/-. Temps into top radiator very slow warming to 130 and out of bottom radiator up to water pump are 120 up to abt 12" from water pump when temp goes back to abt 150. I'm thinking circulation thru thermostat/radiator restricted within top of block /head center between cyl 2-3 (where heat caused failure of hgasket) Any suggestions on how to check flow? I can watch temps drop off when thermostat opens, and also see increase up to thermostat opening, however this cycle is not happening fast enough to keep from over temp head gasket! Last head gasket took JD 3months & big:moose: Having trouble with emogi too! Thank you neighbor, Bill
 
   / 110 TLB with full belly pan running very warm #20  
What makes you think heat caused the head gasket failure?
What information leads you to believe the recorded temperatures are excessive and problematic?
 

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