12vdc oil dip stick heater ??

[farmacist]

I also have a TC35D but I live in upstate New York. The last 2 winters my tractor has started at 10 BELOW zero without my block heater having been plugged in. Just wait until your glow plug light goes out and start, then let warm up 10 minutes before use. It would be more important that you store your tractor with a 50/50 mix of deisel/kerosene to prevent gelling of the fuel. 20 years ago I used a "dip stick heater" on a old tractor but soon noticed that the stick got so hot that the oil burned and caked on the stick so much that when pulling the dipstick out of the block hole it would scrape off the "junk" and let it fall back into the oil. I stopped using the dip stick heater after seeing this "Crud" and I shur wouldnt want to use one on a new TC. Dont worry, it will start. Frank

 

[Soundguy]

There are always magnetic block heaters.. clamp on on the oil pan, and perhaps another on the block.. ec.

Not to mention the in radiator hose heaters.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Dave___in___CT]

Hi...


Using a full synthetic engine oil WILL HELP starting when cold...


Dave...

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Murph is right about the infrared heaters, I probably should have mentioned it.

I used one a few years ago when we had 3 days below -20 and 9 days below 0. I aimed it at the side of the tractor to warm it up, went back in the house and waited about a half an hour. But I was smart enough to lift the hood and remove the side panels before leaving it sit there. Infrared is a LINE OF SIGHT type of heat, it warms what it sees and if it sees plastic it will melt it. I wanted the engine warm so I made sure the engine was the visible component.

HOWEVER, with the proper use, an infrared heater will warm up a tractor engine and it won't need electricity. I used my inside my garage with no problems and will do the same again if we ever see a cold snap like that one again.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Kerosene Diesel mix is a so-so solution to helping start in the winter. First, manufacturers don't usually recommend it.

It does work, but there is a better option.

Diesel fuel anti-gel. You can pick up a quart bottle at any truck stop or any gas station that sells diesel. They sell for a couple of dollars and one bottle will probably last all winter. It is easier to mix properly than kerosene and concentrated enough to treat 30 to 50 gallons (depending on the brand).

 

[higgy]

Make a long extension cord from a roll of 12 2 or 12 3 romex. Not rated for use in this manner but on a cold night you can roll out the 400 feet and pug in. I have one cost me about 15 bucks to make. I just hate rolling up the cord when its cold as the romex gets stiff.

 

[Inspector507]

Just a side note........
If you use any 120V starting aids....block heater, dip stick heater, magnetic heater, radiator hose heater......
Always loop your cord through the steering wheel....it reminds you to unplug it when you get ready to start the tractor. You don't want to drive off and see half of your extension cord trailing behind you /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

 

[yellowdog99502]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> Make a long extension cord from a roll of 12 2 or 12 3 romex. Not rated for use in this manner but on a cold night you can roll out the 400 feet and pug in. I have one cost me about 15 bucks to make. I just hate rolling up the cord when its cold as the romex gets stiff. </font> )</font>

Probably a real good reason why NM cable (Romex) isn't rated (listed) for this use, best one I can think of is that it is UNSAFE!

Hope you don't get to meet your local fire department as a result of doing this. Better yet, what would your insurance company say if there was a problem (fire) from using improper wiring techniques? Seen the results of this method of temporary wiring, NOT PRETTY!

If you are going to go through all the trouble to put plug caps on 400 ft. of NM cable, why not just buy the UF cable and bury it properly, put it on a breaker in your panel and install a proper outlet in the out-building. That would solve all the problems neatly and safely and avoid the 'roll-up' issues.

If you go this route, go one step further and run a circuit out to a 40 or 50 amp subpanel using USE or another listed direct-bury wire. You could then have lighting and other receptacles that you need. Please remember to size the wire or cable assembly for anticipated voltage drops and run a 4-wire feed to the subpanel, also all receptacle outlets will need to be GFCI protected.

Don

 

[hazmat]

1st off, I don't think you need it in WV

If you must have it.

My Plan A would be

The NH Block heater costs $20-30. It took me 30 minutes to install myself.

That + a long extension cord (8 or 10 ga) or electricity to your barn will do the trick.

Plan B

Some kind of propane / kerosene torpedo heater.

if its cold enough that the tractor won't start, a 12V portable power supply ain't going to do the trick. For the money you're better off with a real block heater + the big extension cord.

Have a happy winter.

 

[AndyMA]

Just wanted to throw my 2 cents into this never ending debate. Understanding the issue of warm oil providing better start up lubricarion, My 2120 which I have had since 1987 has only spent a very small amout of time in unheated barns. Usually it is outside and many times under 12-24" of snow when I start it. Sometimes as cold as -5 F. It has never failed to start after using the glow plug heaters a couple of times. I suppose a block heater might be a good idea, but I really don't think it is something that you need on these small diesels. I always let my machines run for a while before I operate, but that is so that the hydraulic fluid flows and the tranny can be shifted, not for engine lubrication issues.

Andy