12x16 Shed Sitting on Blocks Needs Attention

[etpm]

Oh, I forgot to mention this. In Island County WA, which is where I live, a structure is not considered permanent if it is less than 200 square feet and so no building permit is needed. So if I build a shed and put it on pier blocks and don't provide a permanent power connection I don't need a permit. If the shed is on a poured foundation it is considered permanent. If I need lights in the shed I must use an extension cord. I don't know what your county or state requires but the shed your dad built may have been done the way it was because he couldn't wait for a permit. So if you pour a slab or a foundation it may require a permit. Putting the shed on pier blocks is fine from a structural standpoint, you don't need a poured foundation for structural soundness. And pier blocks are way cheaper than a poured foundation or slab.
Eric

 

[ddbackhoe]

My suggestion was aimed at leaving in place. Might want to double check with the building code people, sometimes ”portable“ buildings are ok and not taxed. May be why dad built it that way to begin with.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Whatever time you spend jacking it up so you work on the corners/bottom will be well worth the time. Get the corners up, strap them together as others have said. I've played with cable before and it can be more trouble that you expect--or it might work like a charm.
I like the idea of setting it on a better blocking system. Preferably on gravel. If frost in the ground is an issue, be sure that all corners, and any center support (if used) is all on the same soil so it moves together.

 

[GrumpyL5030]

Hey guys,

I was hoping you gentlemen could help me out with a conundrum I am in. So about twenty years ago my father and uncle built a shed, my father tried to get a permit and they turned him down and said he would have to wait. Long story short he couldn't wait because my uncle was here and they were ready to build it. So now I am stuck in this situation with this building sitting up on blocks. The problem is that the building has started 'slipping' off the blocks in the front. The boards are starting to splinter and I obviously need to do something.

I use this building for my equipment like my Ferris that I use to mow. Anyway I am limited on what I can do and was hoping you guys could give me some advice. I have talked to people about putting a slab of concrete down and moving it to the slab. However, the guy I talked to yesterday said there would be a good chance of it collapsing while trying to move it. It is also on 2x6 runners which complicates things further. So I run my Ferris in and out of this building all the time and we are getting close to mowing again so I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

1.) I was thinking about finding a neighbor with a large tractor and having them lift this side of the building putting a 4x4 or 6x4 post behind this area and driving lags or something in it to pull the structure back together.

2.) I was also thinking I may be able to accomplish this with a high lift jack or bottle jack. I have seen more people use bottle jacks so let me know if you guys have recommendations there.

3.) I have a guy that said he may be able to get it on his truck and move it to a slab of concrete that I have not decided on yet. I have also thought about looking for a guy with a mule which is a piece of equipment built for this.

Anyway before this get too crazy I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

I don't know the dimensions of the shed, but you could get probably few more seasons out of it if you can get a good layer of plastic (tarp or whatever) under the whole thing, then if there's enough space, slide some treated 6x6 posts under it from one side to the other to support the floor joists. I had to do that with a 12x12 shed I had with a similar situation as yours a few years ago. It's still standing now.
Good luck.

 

[rtempleton1]

Hey guys,

I was hoping you gentlemen could help me out with a conundrum I am in. So about twenty years ago my father and uncle built a shed, my father tried to get a permit and they turned him down and said he would have to wait. Long story short he couldn't wait because my uncle was here and they were ready to build it. So now I am stuck in this situation with this building sitting up on blocks. The problem is that the building has started 'slipping' off the blocks in the front. The boards are starting to splinter and I obviously need to do something.

I use this building for my equipment like my Ferris that I use to mow. Anyway I am limited on what I can do and was hoping you guys could give me some advice. I have talked to people about putting a slab of concrete down and moving it to the slab. However, the guy I talked to yesterday said there would be a good chance of it collapsing while trying to move it. It is also on 2x6 runners which complicates things further. So I run my Ferris in and out of this building all the time and we are getting close to mowing again so I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

1.) I was thinking about finding a neighbor with a large tractor and having them lift this side of the building putting a 4x4 or 6x4 post behind this area and driving lags or something in it to pull the structure back together.

2.) I was also thinking I may be able to accomplish this with a high lift jack or bottle jack. I have seen more people use bottle jacks so let me know if you guys have recommendations there.

3.) I have a guy that said he may be able to get it on his truck and move it to a slab of concrete that I have not decided on yet. I have also thought about looking for a guy with a mule which is a piece of equipment built for this.

Anyway before this get too crazy I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

You are on the right tract I use a car roller jack and come along to square it up then set the building
on treated wood for example 4x4 or 4x6. As to permits for a utility building leave the local yo cals take care of their own business and you will take care of yours.

 

[denchen]

A few years ago, I had a similar problem in that the bottom foot or so of my wooden shed had rotted but the rest was good. What I did was, I got a my two ton trolley jack and a long bit of timber. I cut the timber the right length to go from the jack to a top corner inside the shed. I then jacked one corner up about 2 inches. The weight being on the trolley, I cut off the rotten bottom of the shed and laid three rows of bricks and nailed a new bit of timber to the bottom of the shed leaving a two inch gap from the bricks. When the cement between the bricks went off, I lowered the shed onto some bolts I had put in the cement. Out jack and then another corner. It's not spot on, one side is about an inch out, but hey.

 

[hunt4570]

I'd love to see the framing underneath, that might make a difference on how/what you do. Can you stick your head and a camera underneath and take some pictures?

 

[fishdoggy]

I have a shed just like that,been in Wisconsin for 33 winters, moves every year with the frost but is 2x8 treated all around. I can lift it just fine with a jack under any of the sides but it is almost empty in the middle. Level it out and fix corners, add support under 16 foot sides as well, put more work into this if you want but mine has to be considered temporary so no foundation, just blocks and spacer plates, treated lumber for spacer plates.

 

[BruceS_55]

Hey seriously thank you guys. Especially the last three from DaBear3428, ddbackhoe and JPRambo. I am going to try one of these ideas. I especially like this eyelet idea.

So basically you are saying to add two eyebolts at each corner of the building on the under/inner side? Then place the largest washers I can find on the outside of the building, then crank a nut down so they can support the pressure?

So my main questions would be:

1.) What gauge cable should I be looking for?

2.) How do I tighten and crank the cable to pull the structure back?

3.) If you were me and doing this would you lift the building or no?

Regardless I am going to try to get as much out as possible, whatever I do I believe less weight will make it more persuadable.

I have never heard of these Simpsons Strongtie bracket connectors either. They seem like if I could get the structure back they would solve my issue, especially on all sides. The back side I am less worried about because it is only inches off the ground, it is touching the ground in some areas so more worried about rot. I guess doing it on all four sides can only strengthen it.

I used Simpson strong ties to mount the handrail posts when I rebuilt my deck a few years ago. It is a similar idea to the cable idea without the cable. A bracket is mounted to the joist and there is a bolt that goes through the bracket to the outside. As you tighten the nuts on the bolts everything is pulled together. I purchased the Strong ties at Home Depot. Check them out at Simpson Strong-Tie.

 

[Robert walker]

If it were mine, we all have opinions, before i would jack it up I would start by putting a piece of 6x6 or even 8x8 if it would fit up in that corner and use long 1/2” carriage bolts to at minimum hold that corner together. If you start jacking it up first those 2x’s could twist out of there and the entire corner could fall. If it’s 2’ off the ground you have plenty of room to work up under there. I would then jack it up a put solid concrete pad under that concrete block. With the holes in it there isn’t much surface area to keep it from sinking. Read an article once about we don’t use screw to frame when using wood. They either tear out the wood or break because of expansion and contraction. Nails won’t do that. Good luck.