135 Alternator/wiring

[JTXN]

I had to jump my 135 yesterday to get it going. I noticed the output wire of the alternator was broken where it attaches to the lug/main wire. The battery cables are tied to the starter for positive and block for negative. The wires then go to the amps gauge. This gauge does not work. It has a loose wire hanging off the back that has its end taped up.

The gauge also has a bunch of other wires on it - not sure if these are for lights or what.

So my main questions:

How do I get this gauge to work?
What's the output of the alternator supposed to be?
What kind of alternator do I need if it is bad? I think it says AC delco on it.

I'm not sure id this is a retro fit alternator or not. The tractor does not have a serial number plate. Only my tach and oil pressure gauges work, so I was going to fix the others over time.

 

[murphy1244]

try this thread https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...2-1973-mf-150-perkins-diesel.html#post3860087

or this one MF135 | Vintage Tractor Engineer

 

[Agvg]

Would have swapped the amp meter with a volt meter, much more useful when you have a alternator.

 

[aczlan]

I agree on upgrading from the amp meter to a voltmeter.
That alternator appears to be a GM 3 wire alternator, probably a 10 SI based on the fan. Output should be at least 55 amps, more likely somewhere in the 65 amp range.
A rebuilt one is available on Amazon for around $40 last I looked.

Aaron Z

 

[JTXN]

Would any standard voltmeter work? What about the rest of the wires clamped on to that gauge? I see Steiner has various gauges ammeter guages.

I was told the only reason it was replaced is because it would not start. So, I think they left it at that.

I need to study this wiring some more.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Agvg]

probaly upgraded for a dynamo to a alternator, you have inn and out on the amp meter, so all those wires you can just connect together, do you have a igniton switch og just start?

 

[aczlan]

Any standard voltmeter would work, the wires just need to be tied together so that they cant ground out.

Aaron Z

 

[JTXN]

probaly upgraded for a dynamo to a alternator, you have inn and out on the amp meter, so all those wires you can just connect together, do you have a igniton switch og just start?

I have a removable key that I turn to start after I push the rod/cutoff thing in (diesel).

 

[JTXN]

Well the good news is i didnt totally kill the battery. I trickled charged it and the tractor started just fine. Bad news is i only get 12.6V on the battery and on the post on the alternator.

The alternator belt is fairly loose, not so loose it will come off, but not under a ton of tension. My father in law said they never figured out how to get it tight on the adapter bracket.

I tried full PTO rpm which is as high as it goes and there were no voltage changes. I think I'll try a new alternator, then maybe try to find a smaller belt.

 

[redman135]

Hello JTXN, you have an early model (1964 - 1971) which came out with a generator. Standard practice is to upgrade to an altenator when the generator wore out.
Looking at the fan belt, is the altenator adjusted ALL the way out on the adjustment bracket? If so then the fan belt is too long for the job. However looking at the first photo, the altenator adjustment bracket appears to be the wrong one. It does not match the one on my 135 altenator. Are the altenator adjustment bracketts different between US and British models?