TnAndy
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2013
- Messages
- 1,993
- Location
- East Tennessee
- Tractor
- Yanmar LX410...IHI 35J excavator Woodmizer LT40
Trying to help a neighbor of mine with an older MF135 with gas engine. It only ran enough for him to get it over to my shop with the choke pulled all the way out....push it in even a little, and it would die. He bought the tractor from a guy that almost never used it....only 600hrs on the meter, it has spent a lot of time parked in a shed over the decades.
What we've done so far:
Pulled the carb, a Zenith model, took it apart, soaked in a gallon can of carb cleaner over night, blew every passage out I could see to blow out, used a carb kit to rebuild...but it had no new jets...mainly gaskets.
We have also removed the fuel tank (to install new spark plugs), cleaned it out.
Installed a new glass fuel bowl on the tank (the cutoff valve was leaking on the old one), blew out the fuel line from the bowl to the carb, installed a new fuel filter at the carb, have good, clean fuel flow TO the carb.
Checked the solenoid in the float bowl....it retracts as it should when power is applied to it.
New air filters, inner and outer.
Replaced points, plugs, plug wires, condenser, cap (which WAS badly pitted at the 3 contact points), rotor.
Results ?
Can now get it to idle once warmed up with no choke....but at 1500-2000 rpm, still needs about 1/2 choke, or it spits/sputters/dies....but runs fine with the choke half pulled out.....which indicates to me still not getting gas thru the main jet (and I have no idea which of the jets IS the main jet). It's definitely running better than when it limped in my door, but it's certainly not up to par yet.
Carb only has what I think is an air screw (according to one pic I found) on the side next to the inline fuel filter. I set it 1 1/2 -2 turns back out from bottomed all the way in, doesn't seem to affect idle until I back it way out....like 5 turns, then it wants to die at idle. No other external adjustments I can see other than I could adjust the throttle cable connect point....but haven't....seems that would only increase or decrease the idle speed.
Would welcome any help at this point.
Thanks.
Andy
What we've done so far:
Pulled the carb, a Zenith model, took it apart, soaked in a gallon can of carb cleaner over night, blew every passage out I could see to blow out, used a carb kit to rebuild...but it had no new jets...mainly gaskets.
We have also removed the fuel tank (to install new spark plugs), cleaned it out.
Installed a new glass fuel bowl on the tank (the cutoff valve was leaking on the old one), blew out the fuel line from the bowl to the carb, installed a new fuel filter at the carb, have good, clean fuel flow TO the carb.
Checked the solenoid in the float bowl....it retracts as it should when power is applied to it.
New air filters, inner and outer.
Replaced points, plugs, plug wires, condenser, cap (which WAS badly pitted at the 3 contact points), rotor.
Results ?
Can now get it to idle once warmed up with no choke....but at 1500-2000 rpm, still needs about 1/2 choke, or it spits/sputters/dies....but runs fine with the choke half pulled out.....which indicates to me still not getting gas thru the main jet (and I have no idea which of the jets IS the main jet). It's definitely running better than when it limped in my door, but it's certainly not up to par yet.
Carb only has what I think is an air screw (according to one pic I found) on the side next to the inline fuel filter. I set it 1 1/2 -2 turns back out from bottomed all the way in, doesn't seem to affect idle until I back it way out....like 5 turns, then it wants to die at idle. No other external adjustments I can see other than I could adjust the throttle cable connect point....but haven't....seems that would only increase or decrease the idle speed.
Would welcome any help at this point.
Thanks.
Andy