1403 tiller

[shovelrider]

Just picked this up today. Had him put it on a tractor and apply pto, everything was quite and seemed tight. Yanmar 1403 tiller w/ extra tines $600, doesn't have the whls. for rear. The ground i have is a sandy soil until 18", then clay. My question is, do i go ahead and use GL-4 /5--80-90 wt gear lube or not? And is ther a download i can get on this 5' tiller ? Also, will it be ok just to take the xtra weight off tiller. The sq. tubing and the tilt part of it, it'll make it lighter + i would rather just use my positional arm on r.s. of seat for lowering. Any problems with these? Thanx for your advise and help.

 

[winston1]

Pretty sure that is a chain drive model. No guru but I would use the gear oil you show. You might want to leave the rear on there for rear chute adjustment, don't think all that weighs very much.

 

[California]

You did good!

As Winston said, I would leave the rear structure in place. It provides some downforce on the rear flap, which assists in levelling behind where you tilled.

Yanmar's similar tillers specify GL-4 gear lube, 85w90 etc, so I would use that. Also, drain out a sample to see if there is water below the existing oil. It's very likely since these were used in rice paddies.

Did you get the special top link assembly with it? That is needed so it won't hit the tires when lifted.

 

[3gunr]

I have the same tiller in 6 ft, when i bought it it had all the rear wheel parts removed. It sat around for a few yrs because i also have a 5 ft buhler tiller . Last yr i got a new slip clutch drive shaft for it and tilled about 3 acres of food plots with it . I was amazed at how well it tilled. I think you will like it. good luck and enjoy.

 

[shovelrider]

Never thought about xtra weight, thanx. I use a lot of gl-4 /5 in utvs, so have plenty in cabnit. That's all i got, if it's not to complicated and had pic or measurements, i might could make. Mainly bought for garden and to help knock down some high spots on property. In pics you'll see i'm missing spring / pin, will try napa for replacement.

Ok, i see what your talking about. Just looked at pic of your set-up in another post you commented on. You don't think a standard link will work, or will it be too long? Thanx again

 

[California]

A standard 3 point top link will swing the tiller up and into your tires, unless maybe a 1700 has smaller tires than whatever that tiller was designed for. (RS1400 matches YM2000, per an explicit decal on RS1400).

The special tiller top link is a fixed 'bridge' then a much shorter link, resulting in the tiller top swinging outward as it is raised. But try what you have.

 

[careyo63]

Never used one of them before..:laughing: This is a Gear drive 1400 but IMO. your tines are in pretty bad shape. Missing a few on it? But you did good. It won't be long and your see and use new ones then your understand what I'm saying. Mine worked really good. I was assured like I mentioned before and was told to me by a Fredricks dealer that I won't need the wheels. Which was true for my use. This is the results your get with new tines.

 

[California]

...You don't think a standard link will work, or will it be too long?

There are photos of that special top link set, over on the other thread about tillers in the Yanmar forum:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/410395-just-bought-rsb1301-tiller-any.html#post5384233

You might get lucky and not need that.

 

[shovelrider]

Thanks, and i see by your other pix the bracket for short top link. That if i had the measurement i can make one, then again i might be able to either cut an older std. top link? Yeah, i like the way that looks(nice and smooth / level. Thanx

 

[careyo63]

Best I can do. Someone else made it and why I had it. Doesn't have to look the same. Just close to the Lengths. I would believe the top link is the same as the 1403. The swing arm is what's adjustable. I had to cut shorten mine to get it to work correctly. But it' pretty much as short as it gets in the Pic. but then gets longer.