1403 tiller

[California]

Just to clear up a different potential point of confusion - in addition to this tiller that is nearly 'universal 3-point' style, there was a different type of 2-point Yanmar tiller mount that was semi-permanent, the tiller bolted right to the tractor. The tractors that arrived with those, needed a 3-point kit added to make those tractors standard 3-point.

Occasionally those odd 2-point Yanmar tillers appear on Craigslist, generally with an ugly hack adaptation to modify them to 3-point configuration. As I recall I've seen small Yanmars - YM1300 etc - up to YM1500, on Craigslist with that integral tiller attached but not larger Yanmars. My point is if you ever see a really odd Yanmar tiller or tiller/tractor combo, its likely the integral 2-point permanent-mount version. I wouldn't buy the combo unless the tractor was dedicated to contract tilling, or maybe after discounting the price to allow for buying a 3-point conversion kit for the tractor.


Edit, added: A Google search bought up a TBN thread with good photos: Yanmar Tiller 2 point to 3 point conversion There's even a Youtube video of the conversion and then the tiller in use.




Edit some more: I finally found a photo of an original 2-point tractor/tiller combination.
https://www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/...r-4wd-compact-mini-tractor-with-rotavator.jpg


And another point related to every tiller photo (with wheels) that I've seen: The diagram decal on RS1400 shows the 'leg' that goes down to the wheel axle should be installed outward. It is the first thing that will scrape an adjacent tree, instead of the wheel being the outermost point. I tried both ways and found the wheel won't track properly if it is outward, making a turn tends to bind the wheel sideways instead of tracking properly. Trust the diagram and mount the wheel inward.....

 

[careyo63]

It took some doing to get The Tiller setup right on mine even. Had to cut and shorten the PTO. Shaft and even the top Link. Took a few days for them to get me another or correct one. Until then I had to shorten the female side of the shaft and used that as a coupling. I was able to use it On the male side to weld and attach the shaft back together. After shortening it. You can see the difference. The busiest days of the Yr. at work so I basically had to do it. When Fredricks said they won't need it back It was done. So can I say for sure my setup or top link is even for a YM2000 and a RS.1400 No!! But it work Fantastic..........

 

[3gunr]

I bolted on plates that allowed me to move the lower hitch pins out about 4 inches. The drive shaft that came with it was to short so i bought a new slip clutch shaft , it tills great now.

 

[shovelrider]

Don't know yet rather the driveshaft is too long or short yet, been raining like a cow pissin on a flat rock around here. But i think w/ a old top link i have and some channel iron, i can make it work. The most important thing to me is that all bearings,seals, etc are all either new or great shape. Thanx again and i say a prayer for our soldiers and children today.

 

[shovelrider]

Filled both side and top gear boxes, and checked bearing at the end of shaft. Can see where a new race/ bearing had been installed. The seller had it hooked up to his M.F., and it didn't make a sound and seamed to turn ok. But i think i spent about 400$ too much. The flange on the shaft closes to side gear box, is screwed up. Didn't take side cover off yet, thought i'd try an fit it up to tractor 1st. But have to fix flange now. Not going to weld flanges bc of, if it hits a root or something, it won't be pretty. And thanx for all the links for parts etc..

 

[California]

You could laminate a second layer onto that flange, use longer bolts, and be back in business.

You might want to add a slip clutch in the driveshaft, too.

 

[careyo63]

Your going to need tines. New ones are only like 7.00$ each at Hoye. They actually have an angle at the ends L.and R.. When they're straight and pointed the tiller has a Bunch of time on it. But it's all there intact so get the flange taken care of and new tines and your looking to be in good shape. Fredricks has the tines also TT-510 and TT-520. Hoye shows a picture of one and your see just how much is worn off. But Fredricks gives you a better Dia. of the shape. Then your see how much is worn off. Huge amount!!! But Man they work really good when you get it setup correctly.:thumbsup:

 

[shovelrider]

yes sir, thought about that after post. And i do have slip clutch on tractor already. Easy to get to in order to tack/weld a thicker pc w/ right size hole for bolt and thin nut, so it don't hit the bearing side of gear box(as seen in pix, they stuck a lug nut on as reg. nut) Will check Hoye later today. Thank guys.

 

[shovelrider]

Installed tiller, just to see how far back i need to make lower arms brackets(tiller side). As is, when lowered, it's about 2-3" from tire. Raised, it's about 2" from tire.

 

[duanew1]

It looks to me that the special top link is more for keeping the driveshaft aligned than touching the tires.