1500D 4wd was skipping and now not working at all

[rbeitz]

I have a 1500D with a Koyker 110 loader.

Last week I rented a heavy duty pull behind aerator and was pulling it around my 2 acre yard for a few hours with my 1500D. Every now and then the tractor felt like it 'skipped' a gear in the front end. I noticed that I had it in 4wd so I put the lever in 2wd and the 'skipping' stopped. SO I am pretty sure the 'skipping' was something in the front end.

A couple of days ago I was moving some mulch around and I had to put it back in 4wd to climb my trailer ramp to scoop the mulch and I noticed that it was skipping gears again. At one point I was rolling backwards down the ramp and I popped the clutch a little too hard and I believe that is the point that finally did the 4wd in.

I had my wife watch under the tractor as I attempted to drive up the trailer ramp. She tells me that the shaft is turning. But, I have no traction from the front wheels. The rear wheels begin to spin and I couldn't get up the ramp.

I have searched the forum and I found this thread:
4wd not working
that describes the ball bearings moving out of place on the drive shaft coupler going into the front differential. Do you think this could be my problem? Or is it likely to be something worse?

How do I get the drive shaft disconnected from the coupler on the front diff? Do I just pull on it towards the rear of the tractor or is there some other trick to it?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[MichiganBilly]

Unfortunately, it sounds like you've got some damage in one of the front outer drive housings. Probably broken king pin spindle gear teeth. This is somewhat of a known problem with the 1500Ds. Especially the 'old' green style 1500D units.

I've rebuilt the front outer drive housings on my old style 'green' 1500D twice. The main difference between new style and old style is that the large double bevel gear that spins on the front kingpin spindle shafts is: a 1-piece gear (w/ two bevels top/bottom) on an 'old style green' 1500D - or - a 2-piece gear top/bottom bevels on a new style 1500D unit.

I've only been able to find one of the old style gears once. That was used...and since then they've not been available. I've heard rumors of a production run somewhere in the SE part of the World this fall....but Lord only knows for sure. The second time we welded high tensile 'tips' on the broken off teeth and used a wire EDM & die grinder to cut back to OEM teeth. Couldn't find the kingpin spindle shafts at all. Had to turn the rough edges w/ a lathe and install a high tensile bronze (Concast 660) bushing instead of the needle bearings.

The single bevel gear for the wheel axle (w/ splined I.D.) Was readily available.

I think the bushings worked well and should hold up -assuming you're not running your tractor at 45 MPH!-)

I used .0025" press fit on the O.D. of the busing to I.D. of large gear; and used .002" slip fit (for lube) between the I.D. of the bushing and the kingpin shaft.

Here are some contacts for you:

Parts Dept.
Homestead Tractor
760-240-1062

LOWE'S TRACTOR COMPANY
812 663 8928

Tullahoma Tractor
931-455-6999

Town & Country Tractors,inc
815-284-3226

Southern Global Tractor
Toll-Free: (866) 742-5748

Good luck.

-One more thing...be sure to buy new seals for the entire outer drive housing(s).

BillyBob

 

[rbeitz]

Thanks for the response. I quess on the positive side I have the 'newer' red model. I believe it is a 1979 model but I am not 100% certain. ( I bought it from a private party and he had paperwork from the dealer he bought it from that stated it was a 1979 model but who really knows??)

I think I'll start by disconnecting the shaft and checking that connection. If that's not it then I'll start to dig deeper. If you click the link below you'll see a picture of what my shaft coupler looks like. I borrowed this link from the above linked thread and it looks exactly like my shaft. Should I pull the cottor pin to allow the spring and coupler to move backwards or do I just pull the coupler back against the force of the spring?

Picture of shaft coupler

Thanks....

 

[lens12]

To remove the driveshaft. Pull the cotter key that holds the spring tight, then slide back the coupler. There are 6 ball bearings in it. This usually is not the problem unless a weaker spring has been installed

 

[rbeitz]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( To remove the driveshaft. Pull the cotter key that holds the spring tight, then slide back the coupler. There are 6 ball bearings in it. This usually is not the problem unless a weaker spring has been installed )</font>

Well I finally found some time to start looking at this problem. I pulled the shaft apart this morning and I only found 5 ball bearings in there. Maybe that is my problem with it skipping???? Should it definetly have 6 balls? I don't want to tear anything else apart if I don't have too.

Thanks.

 

[rbeitz]

Well after closely examining the coupler I came to the conclusion that it does need 6 balls. I only found 5 when I took it apart. So I ran over to my local ball bearing store this morning and picked up 6 shiney new 5/16" balls. This afternoon I wrestled it back together and I am happy to report that it seems to have fixed my problem. I only ran it around the gravel lane for a while but it is not skipping like it once and the front tires seem to be digging in. I'll give it a the real test in a couple of weeks when I start tilling up my garden.