1500D Modifications

[damammel]

Here are the pics of the light assemblies with the 100w bulbs. I was right the first time when I said they were 100w :confused2:


The relay is from NAPA and has dual 87 poles. Made it easier to power each light. It is controlled by the factory headlight switch, using the original wiring. Power for the lights is supplied by the wire running from the battery with an inline blade fuse.

The washer sits snugly in the housing. The only downside is that the wire passes through the socket where it is spring loaded. If your are easy with it the wire is fine and once the socket is installed the socket is pushed back off the wire.

 

[kenmac]

Looks like a nice clean upgrade. :thumbsup:

 

[damammel]

Looks like a nice clean upgrade. :thumbsup:

Thank you.

 

[Neat 1500]

Here are the pics of the light assemblies with the 100w bulbs. I was right the first time when I said they were 100w :confused2:
View attachment 217774View attachment 217775 View attachment 217776

The relay is from NAPA and has dual 87 poles. Made it easier to power each light. It is controlled by the factory headlight switch, using the original wiring. Power for the lights is supplied by the wire running from the battery with an inline blade fuse.

The washer sits snugly in the housing. The only downside is that the wire passes through the socket where it is spring loaded. If your are easy with it the wire is fine and once the socket is installed the socket is pushed back off the wire.

just be careful they dont burn the reflectors in the OEM lights as they are small and dont have much airspace in them.

 

[Scotty Dive]

Might be a dumb question. But is it possible to keep the dynamo hooked up and charging and add a one wire alternator wired to the battery?

 

[damammel]

Hi Scotty. Not a dumb question. I don't think you'd be able to. I don't think you could even set it up like a truck with dual alternators since the output is not equal. I could be wrong though. Is there a reason why you were considering leaving it hooked up?

 

[Scotty Dive]

My thinking was .....if the dynamo was still in place, that it might sense a problem and kick on the idiot light on my dash. Am I right that the lights lit when voltage drops? Or is it a warning of when the dynamo or regulator is having problems? Otherwise, I would need to remove the dynamo and install either a one wire or a three wire. But I am electrically challenged and do not think I would be able to add a three wire and hook it up with a new regulator and still light the light. However I do plan on installing an after market voltage gauge which would tell me if there is a problem. The worst that could happen is I have jump the tractor if the alternator fails. I thought a one wire ran directly to the battery.....????

 

[Car Doc]

Delco High Amp Alternator


May have to cut and paste I see it didn't change into a link. (edit: well guess it did once I posted it)

 

[Scotty Dive]

Thanks Car Doc...I was hoping you would chime in.

If I removed the dynamo and regulator, do you think I could take a three wire alternator or one wire with sesning wire (see below) and connect from the alternator to the wire that lights the idiot light and have it work?

I found this at FAQ-Alternators


Question: How do I hookup a one wire alternator if my stock alternator was an externally regulated alternator? What do I do with the regulator and wiring harness?


Answer: The only thing required to electronically hookup a one wire alternator is to run a charge wire from the battery terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery (or any positive battery source). The external regulator can be either totally removed from the firewall or left in place. If left in place, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness from the regulator. The wiring harness has to be disconnected from the regulator or the indicator light on the dash will remain on. NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with an indicator light, the light will no longer be operative. Please see the following question.


Question: My dash light does not work after I installed my one wire alternator. How do I get my dash light to work?


Answer: Some Powermaster alternators have an indicator light drive. The indicator light wire from the stock wiring harness has to be connected to this terminal of the one wire alternator. If the you had an OE externally regulated alternator, then use a conversion wiring harness (part # 150). If you had an internally regulated alternator with the two spade wiring harness connector, simply remove the black rubber cover on the side of the Powermaster alternator and plug the harness in. (PLEASE NOTE: This applies only to part #s 17294, 37294, etc. and not to part # 178021, etc.)

 

[Car Doc]

Scotty welcome and here is my simple solution.

We used to in the "old" days put 10or 12SI GM alternators on everything I mean everything from 6v conversion cars tractors boats old trucks with generator systems you name it.

They are cheap the 10 and 12SI are bigger than the 100 amp CS like the OP used but you just may need a CS from a junk yard to get the pigtail I dont know about that they may sell them to for all I know?

The SI you can get at the zone or oreileys and they sell the pigtail also.

Take the brown 14ga wire run it thru a bulb and then to the run term on ign switch and the 2 terminal 12 ga red wire goes back onto the output term of the alt with an eyelet they work nice and simple. hth

Your bulb circuit is simply a ground in the regulator (I think) but it would be easy to wire the existing bulb right into this add on GM alt pigtail etc and have it just like it is on the dash etc.