1540/boxblade woes...

[JerryG]

Wouldn't using the bottom hole on the mount for the top link actually give you less forward tilt then it would when using the top hole? I might be wrong but it seems to me that using the bottom hole puts the top link closer to the tractor thus tilting the blade further back then it would when using the top hole? John

With a plow you would be right but a box is different. The box has to be tilted forward to make the rippers go down more or expose them more. If the arm is in the top, then the box would tilt backward and the rippers would be less exposed.

 

[ratter]

I've just been out working that area for a while. I've made progress. By ripping forward and then pushing backwards. Over and over and over again. I still think I'm being hampered by the tilt though. At maximum "tiltage" and with the rippers as low as they'll go, they only hit the dirt maybe an inch more than the blade. I seem to remember others here getting 3-4" or more...so I think that even with more weight, that wouldn't solve the scarifier penetration problem. I still wouldn't be able to rip up the turf without the back blade making deep contact too...

 

[JerryG]

This may seem like a dumb question, but are the rippers down as far as they will go on the box? Most BB have two different positions for the rippers with the most shallow position being an inch or two below the box. The deep position is usually four or five inches. Some BB have a pin that goes through the ripper and others have slots in the ripper and a pin that jams it against the beam.

 

[ratter]

This may seem like a dumb question, but are the rippers down as far as they will go on the box? Most BB have two different positions for the rippers with the most shallow position being an inch or two below the box. The deep position is usually four or five inches. Some BB have a pin that goes through the ripper and others have slots in the ripper and a pin that jams it against the beam.

No such thing as a dumb question when it comes to me and tractors! But yes, they're as far down as they will go. They're the slotted/notched type, with two positions. Getting longer ones might be an easier option than getting a different toplink.

First pic shows the max. tilt I can get and the rippers at their max depth.

Second pic is a "before" and the third is "after". So it did kinda sorta work, but not very efficiently at all. I probably spent two hours or more on this spot that's about 400 sq ft...

 

[JerryG]

Measure the top link at its shortest length and let us know the length.

 

[jeepcj7]

Saw your picture. Your box blade angle is fine. You need to add weight to the box blade.

 

[ratter]

Okey doke. I'll see what I can work out. I might also go get a cheap middlebuster to bust things up before using the rippers. This little area is all real thick matted weeds that I couldn't mow very well because of all humps, rocks, and holes...

 

[philbuilt]

Have you considered useing a tiller prior to dragging the box? Your tilt looks the same as mine and I don't have any problems. The ground does how ever seem to be very dry and grassy. The other option besides weight is to wet the ground or wait for rain as previously stated. Try a gravel driveway and I think you will find your angle might be to tilted.
Just my 5 cents.

 

[browns40]

Hi ratter,

That grass is awful hard for the blade on the back of the box to get under & stay under... once your under it, keeping an eye on staying under it (backing up slightly, then the blade digs a bit deeper as you go forward), or more & more passes will do it... The angle on the blade doesn't look bad...

Can the MF lower arms be screwed out any? I gain a bit more depth & angle on the JD by screwing them out flush with the end of the threaded rod...

Other thing is extra weight will help a lot... my boxblade is a whole different animal with extra weight put on it. My solution was the old free weights (attached).

A little lower arms, and a lot more weight will get you into that grass faster