1630 with broke block/loader

[Soundguy]

I'll have to get the model number.. but it is a blue loader.. so i assume it is a nh unit, as far as i recall, they were bought, with loaders, from the dealer,.. IE.. pre-installed and plumbed..

Yes.. there were other mounts farther back.. only the ones at the front o fthe engine block failed.

tuesday I'll take pics of the failure, and get the loader numbers.

Do NH loaders still have ID tags like old ford loaders.. there aren't many decals left on the loader or the tractor..e tc.

soundguy

 

[Eagleview]

I would plug the holes with brass tappered plugs and use a two part epoxy ribbon to repair the sump rail .

 

[RickB]

Yes, there should be a metal tag. if it is a NH loader, it should be a 7308 to fit a 1630.

 

[Soundguy]

Will let you guys know tomorrow.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Ok, the loader is already gone out to the job to be installed on another tractor. I sent word to the mechanic to get me the model number ont he tag.. but he said it was a NH loader.. so it must be the 7308, etc.

Here is a pic. This is the 'worst' side, as there is a superficial chip of about 2 threads plus the lip brok out of one lower hole, next the other lower hole that completely broke out. Ont he other side, one about 1 thread on 3 of the holes pulled / broke out, and again.. that one bolt hole that really broke out. You can see the rtv thy shot up in there on the job to staunch the oil flow till thay could get her loaded and back to the shop.

soundguy

 

[JC-jetro]

Ok, the loader is already gone out to the job to be installed on another tractor. I sent word to the mechanic to get me the model number ont he tag.. but he said it was a NH loader.. so it must be the 7308, etc.

Here is a pic. This is the 'worst' side, as there is a superficial chip of about 2 threads plus the lip brok out of one lower hole, next the other lower hole that completely broke out. Ont he other side, one about 1 thread on 3 of the holes pulled / broke out, and again.. that one bolt hole that really broke out. You can see the rtv thy shot up in there on the job to staunch the oil flow till thay could get her loaded and back to the shop.

soundguy

Hi Chris. Wow, they sure boogered that one up good. It looks to me the crack is deep and wide and probably pretty deep. I'm afraid the it is difficult to get adequate weld penetration in so at best may be a cosmetic weld. I wondered if that piece breaks off if you drop the oil pan. I guess I don't attempt welding before I drop th oil pan and take a look. It may require a bead of weld on the bottom side as well to secure the broken piece. If oil splashing out is my concern, I flatten the pan and sandwich a thick enough Neoprene or epdm in between with a bit if RTV blue after I completely degrease the area to close things up. By the way the holes are way too close to the edge, that is not a good design.


JC,

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. that long broke out piece, which is virtually identical on the other side falls ( fell ) right out when the pan came down. That one hole on each side is the only hole that actually broke thru the middle. the top 2 hole sjust ahad maybee a single thread pulle dout, and one hole actually had a chip/ portion o the lip pulle dout, but it did npt break the threaded hole all the way thru like that one. There is about 3.5" of 'missing' gasket surface on each side where the oil pan mates up.. that is where the oil is 'sloshing' out from.

Plan is to clean it up with carb spray, and *try* to build it up with a lump of brass, and then plane down level with the rest of the lower deck. Obviously that one threaded hole on each side is no longer 'blind' and will have to have a blip of braze in there to prevent oil from coming out the half threaded hole.

this machine will not have a loader any more.. only reapir concern is to keep oil in the engine now. After damage was found, laoder was removed,a dn they goope dit up with rtc and used the tractor on the job for a couple weeks. during that time, it did 'slobber' out the rtv patch.. but no oil/water was found mixed in the cooling system.. and no evidence of water was found in the oil... we really looked for that when the pan came off. I thik we dodged the bullet and there were no oil/water passages int he block at that low flange break.

And yes.. i think that lower flange with the boss and bolt holes is WAY to close to the lower lip to be 'structural' for a loader. my opinion anyway.



soundguy

 

[Eagleview]

Yikes what a mess , i take back my comments on tapered plugs and epoxy . What you may be able to do is utilise the top two holes , by making a square plate out of 3/8" steel and using it to hold back whatever ectoplasm you are going to trowel onto it . It could even have a piece of 1"x1" square steel bar welded to the bottom of it on the inside to make a new sump rail and get rid of most of the cracks and damage after squaring it up with the cut off wheel .