1700 Freeze plug delimma, need opinion.

TCBoomer · Sep 30, 2009

Ray...take a look here It appears that 3/8 plate is in fact a separate piece that is bolted to the back of the block

Texas Blues · Sep 30, 2009

Poor placement of the plug. There is no real alternative, your going to have to split the tractor. It's not going to be that bad on that tractor. Good Luck, TB

Hooked_on_HP · Sep 30, 2009

If it is a core plug, it is cuped facing out. You may be able to dimple it a little more to get it to seal. I would give it a try before splitting the tractor.
Bill

rayikeo2 · Sep 30, 2009

OK, maybe I got carried away when I said the plate doesn't come off. I had to wipe off some old dirt and grime and it does look like the plate will come off but there are no external bolts visible to remove the plate from the front half of the tractor. The back half of the tractor is bolted directly to this plate. It may be possible to find internal bolts to remove the plate after splitting. I don't think I am up to splitting a tractor. I don't think I have the equipment to handle that big a job. Also I don't have the slightest idea how to do it. So I am going to give the old plug a few taps with a broad flat punch to tighten it up and try the stop leak trick as mentioned by JC and others. Meanwhile if anyone comes up with other ideas feel free to jump into this conversation. Ray

JFS2295 · Oct 1, 2009

That plate is an engine adapter plate. This way the engine can be used in different belhousing configurations and only a different plate is needed rather then a different engine block casting. In order to remove it you may need to remove the clutch and flywheel as chances are some of the bolts are behind the flywheel or at least around it. The flywheel would have to come off to move the plate backwards anyway, unless somehow rotating it once it was unbolted from the block. A lot of variables here. Often the rear main seal is part of an adapter plate, too. So you run the risk of needing to change the rear seal once it's disturbed in this manner or risk a later oil leak.

Me, I'd try the stop-leak way before I go hammering on that plug ........

JC-jetro · Oct 1, 2009

Ditto on what jack said. The adapter plate has to come off and it can not be done before pressure plate/flywheel is out of the way. All of that for a plug... That's just criminal

JC,

Pic below is courtesy of Russell, does not show the plug but clearly see the adapter plate and what it take to expose the plug.

Soundguy · Oct 1, 2009

imho.. if the plug is leaking from a pinhole.. it is likely rotted out and ready to give way.. if it is leaking on a flange seal.. then I might be tempted to try the stop leak.

soundguy

rayikeo2 · Oct 1, 2009

The leakage is coming from around the edge (outer circumference) of the plug with no signs of a hole or rust so if the seepage can be stopped the plug looks good to stay.

jones6780 · Oct 2, 2009

I have just completed a complete engine rebuild on my 1700 and it is not that hard to split this tractor. The plug that is leaking is a core plug. The only way to replace it is to split the tractor, remove the flywheel which has a 2 1/2" nut torqued to 325 ft-lb痴, and remove the 3/8 adapter plate. Removing the flywheel and then torguing is the most difficult part. If you are not comfortable doing those tasks then you will have to hire some one or take a chance on a shortcut. You could try to dimple it more and use the stop leak as JC recommended. That could buy you a couple of years before it starts leaking again. The choice is yours but I would lean toward the shortcut.

Russell

rayikeo2 · Oct 2, 2009

jones6780 said:
I have just completed a complete engine rebuild on my 1700 and it is not that hard to split this tractor. The plug that is leaking is a core plug. The only way to replace it is to split the tractor, remove the flywheel which has a 2 1/2" nut torqued to 325 ft-lbç—´, and remove the 3/8 adapter plate. Removing the flywheel and then torguing is the most difficult part. If you are not comfortable doing those tasks then you will have to hire some one or take a chance on a shortcut. You could try to dimple it more and use the stop leak as JC recommended. That could buy you a couple of years before it starts leaking again. The choice is yours but I would lean toward the shortcut.

Russell

Thanks Russell, I am leaning toward the shortcut too. However,this thought has passed through my head, take out the old plug without splitting, use a grinder to round off the top of the plate (bevel it), slide in a new plug and re-demple it. Do you think that would work? It sure would be a lot easier than splitting. There is no reason why the top of the plate can't be altered to allow room to insert the plug.