1700 REAR LIGHT MODIFICATION

[fig]

Eddie,

This light idea just popped into my head last night while trying to disconnect my finish mower and put the 3pt trailer hitch on to park my boat. Would have been nice to see where I was going while backing up. I will have to look it over this weekend and see what I have to work with. I wouldn't mind having the rear light on when the head lights are on, but I will investigate.

Fig

 

[Soundguy]

Like the others said.. make sure the circuit is fused, and the switch is rated for the amperage of the load. Locate the blinker element.. should be easy. remove it. wire those wires together. relocate the blinker to AFTER the switch on the side of the turn signals.. then run the other side of the switch to your light. The only problem with this is that you can't have blinkers AND rear light at the same time.

Soundguy

 

[Jagmandave]

Here's mine - Walmart special @ $9.95. I also had a wire from the fuse panel that was hot when the switch was on, so I put a switch inline with that, and it works anytime the key is on and I flip the switch. Running one out of the turn signal switch is a bit more complicated, as the power goes thru the flasher and then thru the T/s switch. I think a simple on/off switch is easier.

 

[Jagmandave]

Another pic, closer. The switch is the little grey nub ahead of the light

 

[elarson]

Another thought.....the wire that feeds the turn signals is awfully small. Just from memory it seems that the wire is 18 guage, maybe 16 though. If you hook up a nice bright halogen spot that draws 10+amps it could turn into a 5 foot long heating element. Just start at the feed wire and go through the components and make sure that the fuse is the weak link. I ended up turning both blinkers so that red lenses face rearward and connected them together for hazard flashers for road travel. Now I have an empty side of the switch. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you hook up a nice bright halogen spot that draws 10+amps it could turn into a 5 foot long heating element )</font>

Just curious.. where you getting those 120+ watt spotlamps for tractors?? Most 12v lamps I see are the 55 watt variety... I.E. .. 4.5amps..

Soundguy

 

[fig]

Thanks guys! Like I said in an earlier post; this idea popped into my head without thinking too much about it first. You all have given good advice (as always) and things to check out.

Fig

 

[elarson]

You're right, 55 watts is the standard H-3 bulb commonly used in aftermarket lighting. I had a neighbor who made a pretty good mess of the wiring in his pickup after he got a pair of 150 watt h-3 's and put them in the factory foglamps. (didn't help things much when he solved the blowing fuse problem with a bigger fuse) He picked up the bulbs from a local auto parts store in a blister pack card. Just trying to help avoid trouble.

 

[Jagmandave]

I really don't think you're after a halogen light for that loccation anyway, just a regular 12V lamp will provide enough illumination to do what he's trying to do, ie: unhook implements or back up in the dark, at least that was the reasoning behind the light I bought.

 

[sirgknight]

may be he's after a dual purpose light - like spotting deer at night......