1710 engine stalls, I really need your assistance

[yorT]

I don’t want to be doom and gloom, but you said it overheated. How bad? Bad enough to cause engine damage.

Hey Dodge man
I’m really glad you asked, as this was my next shout out for help….

I don’t think the engine got damaged. There are no leaks, cracks or unusual sounds. I’ve replaced the engine oil and hydraulic fluid and filters; both were clean of water or coolant or contamination. I also flushed the radiator, replaced all the coolant and hoses cause they were old delaminating. I also replaced the thermostat.
Everything seems to be working as usual except for the temp gauge on the dash. It used to work but now it doesn’t. It says cold when the key is off and hot when the key is on, even before you start the engine. I checked all the wire connections when I had the fuel tank off, no obvious problems. My only guess is the thermostat sensor which sits just behind the thermostat and has a wire running to a harness of wires going to the dash, got damaged in the overheating. Do you. Have any idea if this sounds possible? If not can you direct me what to look for so I can get the temp gauge operating again?

Thanks,
Troy

 

[Fxfymn413]

Taking the tank off, cleaning it and cleaning the fuel valve hose was way easier than expected.

Gotta love those old simple machines! When I had my 1710 I disassembled a lot of it, painted it, and put it back together in one day. They are a good tractor and I did a lot of work with that machine.

That is a cousin of the bug that clogged mine up! Glad it worked out and now you should put a strainer in the fuel fill to prevent clogs. I really like the idea of trying the cold coffee screens an earlier poster mentioned.

I made mine by wrapping a heavy wire around a piece of pipe that was the correct size and welding the ends together. Weld another ring on the top that is large enough to keep it from passing through the tank opening and connect the rings together with a couple of pieces of straight wire. Line it with screen to prevent stuff from getting into the tank.

 

[yorT]

Congratulations for your repair. From the the looks of that clog I'll advise you to add a fuel conditioner that contains Biocide. This Biocide will kill any fungus if present in fuel tank.

I’ve never heard of Biocide or a fungal problem in a fuel tank or else where, but I’ll do it. Better to be safe then sorry, that for sure. I will be adding a can of Seafoam (proportioned) properly for the amount of fuel. I’ve felt and noticed good results from past use. It might just be me; wash and detail your car, change the oil and filters, it feels like it drives better…..

Anyway, I’m on it, Biocide it is

 

[Fxfymn413]

Do you. Have any idea if this sounds possible? If not can you direct me what to look for so I can get the temp gauge operating again?

The sensor works by creating a variable path to ground. My guess is it is bad, but you can test it by removing the wire from it and turning the key on. The heat gauge should not move. If it does go to full hot than you have a short to ground somewhere in the wire. If it doesn't move touch the wire to the sensor connection and if it goes to full hot the sensor is bad.

 

[woody]

I hate being late to the party but I do like a happy ending. While you are picking the biocide pick up that thermostat sensor and you will be good to go.

 

[yorT]

Gotta love those old simple machines! When I had my 1710 I disassembled a lot of it, painted it, and put it back together in one day. They are a good tractor and I did a lot of work with that machine.

That is a cousin of the bug that clogged mine up! Glad it worked out and now you should put a strainer in the fuel fill to prevent clogs. I really like the idea of trying the cold coffee screens an earlier poster mentioned.

I made mine by wrapping a heavy wire around a piece of pipe that was the correct size and welding the ends together. Weld another ring on the top that is large enough to keep it from passing through the tank opening and connect the rings together with a couple of pieces of straight wire. Line it with screen to prevent stuff from getting into the tank.

A screen/ filter was on my shopping list today preventing future problems. If I can’t find one, I’ll do as you have suggested and make one that the fuel is poured through and I can pullout to clean on a regular basis. Not every tank fill but often enough to feel confident that this won’t happen again.

 

[yorT]

The sensor works by creating a variable path to ground. My guess is it is bad, but you can test it by removing the wire from it and turning the key on. The heat gauge should not move. If it does go to full hot than you have a short to ground somewhere in the wire. If it doesn't move touch the wire to the sensor connection and if it goes to full hot the sensor is bad.

AWSOME information…. I’ll be trying that and irregardless I think I’ll replace the sensor so I know it’s reading correctly.
Thanks again for that information. It’s that type of knowledge I’m lacking and very appreciative for the advice and steps to complete.

 

[yorT]

If engine will operate 15-20 minutes without pushing coolant out of radiator overflow tube I doubt engine is damaged from getting over heated. My guess is fuel flow from tank to inj pump is restricted. A couple of bursts of compressed air blown into fuel supply line that is attached to inj pump that goes to fuel tank will probably temporarily solve the fuel problem.

Howdy Jim
I don’t have any coolant coming from the overflow after operating. As a matter of fact, yesterday after fixing the fuel issue I ran a harrow for a couple of hours and plowed around a slash pile, prepping to burn. With that amount of use and strain there were no leaks or problems identified.
I did get the fuel problem fixed. Thanks for the information on that one

 

[dirttoys]

To all those that assisted THANK YOU !!!
I removed the gas tank, shutoff valve and fuel hose to the fuel filter and what did I find ……. THE CULPRIT

Taking the tank off, cleaning it and cleaning the fuel valve hose was way easier than expected. Overall it took me about 2½ hours to remove, clean and reassemble. A quick bleed of the system and prime;was up and running.

The tractor sounds better, more responsive at the throttle and feels more powerful since it’s getting the fuel it needs.

Thanks again!!!

Cheers,
Troy

no wonder it was stalling and starving for fuel View attachment 738173View attachment 738176

Very Good thanks for letting us know.

Best,

ed

 

[Williy]

you could trace the sensor wire to check
for any bare spots that could be shorting
out before you put in the new one just to
be sure.

willy