180 questions
- Thread starter tnjind
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pmsmechanic
Elite Member
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- Dec 6, 2013
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- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
So I looked closer and came to the same conclusion you did. Next I googled for cross reference charts which let you look up a seal number and see what the equivalent seal number is from a different manufacturer. NOK/AE2074E crosses over to SKF/13951 which in turn crosses over to Timken/223535. The SKF number will easily get you the right seal just about anywhere. I couldn't find a National number for the NOK/AE2074E.
If the above doesn't give you the right part then take the old seal along with you when you get bearings, The store should be able to measure the inside diameter (id), the outside diameter (od) and the width and come up with a seal that works. If you want to measure for the seal yourself then measure the id of the hole where the seal goes. That is the od of the seal. Measure the shaft where the seal rides (seals) on and that is the id of the seal. If there is room the width of the seal doesn't matter too much as long as it does the job. Store have seal measurement cross reference charts too.
Well,
I got it back together, I didn't have enough gear lube. I will get more tomorrow. I checked the top bearing on the right side. It appears fine.
We will see. I have plenty of leaves to mow with my MMM I turned into a 3 pt mower.
I got it back together, I didn't have enough gear lube. I will get more tomorrow. I checked the top bearing on the right side. It appears fine.
We will see. I have plenty of leaves to mow with my MMM I turned into a 3 pt mower.
Final drive works great, I do however have a leak. I suspected it would leak lube from around the final drive "pivot". The seal was extremely hard. The shop manual does not provide a part number and the seal is extremely thin. I will destroy it when I remove it and doubt there would be any readable number on it.
My question, does anyone have the seal part number?
This thing is giving me a work out. The steering is back to have a half of turn of play again. I suspect the worm gear is worn enough to allow the balls to fall out.
My question, does anyone have the seal part number?
This thing is giving me a work out. The steering is back to have a half of turn of play again. I suspect the worm gear is worn enough to allow the balls to fall out.
Over 1,500 views and only three good people responded, which is VERY much appreciated
Either I am not good at this (which is likely), or what I am asking is too specific, or that my stuff is junk and people is hoping I will report back that it blew up and disappeared from the earth and I will soon follow, lol...
I would have at least expected a "you suck" or something.
Either I am not good at this (which is likely), or what I am asking is too specific, or that my stuff is junk and people is hoping I will report back that it blew up and disappeared from the earth and I will soon follow, lol...
I would have at least expected a "you suck" or something.
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,225
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
Well I could tel you that you suck but that wouldn't solve the problem. 
Now lets get back to the seal. I looked online for parts diagrams but didn't come up with anything. Is the seal built just like a regular seal? With a metal flange and rubber bonded to it? If it is then you can get it out without damaging it. what you do is drill a small hole into the metal flange and screw in a self tapping screw. You might need to do this in about three equally spaced places around the seal. Screw in the self tapping screw firmly and then gently pry on each one till the seal comes out.
Take the seal and see if you can get one matched up. If you can't match one up all is not lost. If your careful drilling holes and the seal has a garter spring inside that didn't get damaged during the removal process then take the garter spring out and look at it carefully. you will see a place where the end of the spring turns into itself. Unscrew the spring to separate it and shorten it by 3-4 coils of spring on the larger end. To get the spring back together is a bit of a trick. You need to pre-uncoil the spring several turns between your fingers before you touch the two ends together and let them screw back into each other. Reinstall the shortened garter spring into the seal and install the seal. Close up the holes you drilled with some oil resistant silicone and with a bit of luck you should be back in business. If the garter spring gets damaged just buy another seal close to the same size and use the garter spring out of it.
Once you get the seal out you may just find the number on it. I've found numbers inside the steel flange at times. I'm pretty sure that the place where you ordered the previous seal should be able to match one up.
As far as he steering goes maybe someone else can reply as I have no experience with Mitsubishi's.
Now lets get back to the seal. I looked online for parts diagrams but didn't come up with anything. Is the seal built just like a regular seal? With a metal flange and rubber bonded to it? If it is then you can get it out without damaging it. what you do is drill a small hole into the metal flange and screw in a self tapping screw. You might need to do this in about three equally spaced places around the seal. Screw in the self tapping screw firmly and then gently pry on each one till the seal comes out.
Take the seal and see if you can get one matched up. If you can't match one up all is not lost. If your careful drilling holes and the seal has a garter spring inside that didn't get damaged during the removal process then take the garter spring out and look at it carefully. you will see a place where the end of the spring turns into itself. Unscrew the spring to separate it and shorten it by 3-4 coils of spring on the larger end. To get the spring back together is a bit of a trick. You need to pre-uncoil the spring several turns between your fingers before you touch the two ends together and let them screw back into each other. Reinstall the shortened garter spring into the seal and install the seal. Close up the holes you drilled with some oil resistant silicone and with a bit of luck you should be back in business. If the garter spring gets damaged just buy another seal close to the same size and use the garter spring out of it.
Once you get the seal out you may just find the number on it. I've found numbers inside the steel flange at times. I'm pretty sure that the place where you ordered the previous seal should be able to match one up.
As far as he steering goes maybe someone else can reply as I have no experience with Mitsubishi's.
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,225
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
Just had another idea in the shower!! Take the part where the seal rides on to the store where you got your other seal. They should be able to fit you up with a ready-sleeve or equivalent. This fits over the shaft where the seal rides on and makes it a bit larger. that will probably be enough to stop the leaking.
oliver28472
Veteran Member
I bought new seals and bushings for my 470 Buck many years back. I had a machine shop press them in. My parts book calls for 2 seal per side. The part number in the book is 1007 0641 000.
Thanks for all of the help and ideas.
The seal is really thin, not like a normal seal. I at first didn't realize there was a seal. I looked at the manual some good guy posted, It talked about the steel on the seal being so thin that it easily distorts.
I was hoping I could get one before I tore this one out. My luck would that it is no longer available. It is not leaking too bad yet, but will only get worse.
As far as the steering box, if I can not correctly repair this one I might try to adapt on from an Economy tractor. looks like it might work.
The seal is really thin, not like a normal seal. I at first didn't realize there was a seal. I looked at the manual some good guy posted, It talked about the steel on the seal being so thin that it easily distorts.
I was hoping I could get one before I tore this one out. My luck would that it is no longer available. It is not leaking too bad yet, but will only get worse.
As far as the steering box, if I can not correctly repair this one I might try to adapt on from an Economy tractor. looks like it might work.
