1900 Ford tractor split for clutch replacement

[jones6780]

I know a 1900 is not a 1700 but when I split my 1700 I did not have to remove that drop box. I removed the bolts in the collar at each end of the driveshaft and was able to remove the drive shaft.

 

[1900freddy]

I know a 1900 is not a 1700 but when I split my 1700 I did not have to remove that drop box. I removed the bolts in the collar at each end of the driveshaft and was able to remove the drive shaft.

Hi I don't know what a 1700 looks like but they just might be different. My front diff has a rather long flange that the driveshaft pipe goes into and is attached by 4 bolts. The rear where the drop box is located has a flange/ coupler attached by one bolt and the driveshaft pipe goes into it. I have added another picture of this flange which I would like to remove but can't. I'd like to replace the the O ring and seal while I wait for my clutch.

 

[jones6780]

I looked back at my photos and I am not sure about the drive shaft removal as I had the front axle pivot loose as well. Here are photos of each end of the drive shaft. The end in the drop box should just slide out with only an O ring holding it.



Russell

 

[1900freddy]

I looked back at my photos and I am not sure about the drive shaft removal as I had the front axle pivot loose as well. Here are photos of each end of the drive shaft. The end in the drop box should just slide out with only an O ring holding it.

View attachment 352037View attachment 352038

Russell

Hi Russell,
Thank you for the response. I see where you removed the coupler from the drop box which is something in a previous post I was asking about so I could replace o rings. It seems like the o ring is what is making mine so hard to remove. I don't see a "c" clip so I guess that part just pulls out.

I got the clutch today, installed the dual clutch, now I am trying to put the 2 pieces back together. I've got the bell housing and engine about 2" from each other but not able to get it any further. Any HELP or know how would be appreciated. I'm getting exasperated and exhausted.

 

[jimmysisson]

Is this a clutch alignment problem? Did you have a good-fitting alignment tool?
Jim

 

[jimmysisson]

And best leave it be if you're tired: don't want to break a casting or bolt.
Jim

 

[1900freddy]

And best leave it be if you're tired: don't want to break a casting or bolt.
Jim

Hi Jimmy,
Thank you for your thoughts. Yesterday, I took the clutch assembly totally back off. I could not get it to move any closer than about 1 1/2". I had made alignment pins from long treaded bolts(Cut heads off, grounded round) and screwed them into the clutch bell housings threaded holes. I had a washer and nut on the threaded part coming through engine holes which I used to help pull engine while I moved the pto shaft through the inspection hole. I just could not get it pulled together. Once the clutch assembly was off and back on the bench, I noticed the pto clutch disc was not centered properly. I was told the assembly was ready to install so did not bother looking when I brought it back from clutch dealer. I do have an alignment tool for the drive clutch disc and that was dead nuts. There are rivets that go around the pto disc. One of the rivets were touching the pressure plate and some were 1/4" away. Not alined very well by clutch builder. I think I had the drive shaft through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing from how close it was before it took it back out.

I also had some concern about the alignment of the clutch housing to the flywheel, I did not like just using the attachment bolts
holding it for I was concerned about the reveal and did not feel it was going to be balanced properly. In looking at the clutch housing there are two places that use longer bolts and have a recess that is about 1/2" and about 1/4 deep. The same on the flywheel. I looked at a dealers website in Wellington Ohio for my concern and it said pin. I looked at Messinks website and it said knock. A knock is like a bushing (has hole in it). Now I understand I need 2 knocks to get my clutch housing and flywheel aligned properly and the longer bolts will go through the knock into the flywheel. My clutch was replaced before I bought it and there were no alignment knocks that fell out.

Today I cleaned the oil bath air filter, change the oil in the injection pump, cleaned the fuel filter bowl and installed new filter, removed the hydraulic filter and cleaned it. I then took the loader valve apart, cleaned it, installed new o rings, reinstalled. Once I get the tractor back together I'll drain oil and then put some RotellaT 15-40 oil and new filter on.

I am running out of things to do till I get my clutch situation remedied, hopefully tomorrow.

I will take some pictures of my fabrication pins that may help someone else down the road.

I am hopefully going to be able to do this without help just to see if I can do it a lone.

 

[1900freddy]

Well finally got the tractor back together and running with loader attached. Went out and moved some snow around. I am not going to put the backhoe back on until spring. I'm going to use 3 point and put my box grader on to give me some weight off the back. I took the clutch to dealer and showed him the pto disc alignment. He said he could get it aligned, took it into his shop area. He moved pto disc to get it centered. Used my alignment tool to center drive clutch. My flywheel had 2 areas for alignment pins. Messicks did not have any. My old clutch was still at dealers so they took some out of the pto area of my old clutch and gave them to me. I made 2 studs which I screwed into flywheel to hold clutch assembly while bolting up then removed them after I had 4 bolts holding it into place. I torqued the bolts to 23 ft/lbs each. I had no torque specs other than ranges of torque for that size bolt. Next was installing alignment studs I made into the bell housing. I pushed the front part to the back part slowly. Once I got parts close together I used the studs and put washers and nuts on them. Slowly I tightened the nuts pulling it back together. I used a long screwdriver to turn flywheel to get drive shafts aligned to clutch discs. finally after about 1 hour of tightening nuts and turning flywheel,
pushing rear wheels while in high gears it went together. What a relief that was. Next was putting my 4 wheel drive shaft back into place with drop box. There were 2 studs on the drop box which I replaced with 10.9 bolts and it made the job much easier to reinstall. Torqued all bolts to drop box to 38 ft/lbs. Why they used studs in the first place is questionable. I connected all the wiring and cleaned all connections before reinstalling. That starter motor was a real bastard to get back into place. I changed the fuel filter, bled the filter of air, bled the injector pump and then bled the injectors. Make sure you have full fuel in tank. it makes bleading air from system easier. I turned the engine over and bled injectors further. I installed the loader attachment bracket and then pushed tractor to where I had loader suspend from I beam in building 5' away. Reattached hydraulic lines and installed bucket to loader which I wheeled around on a furniture dolly. I put in 5 gallons of new hydraulic oil. I have an additional 1 1/4 gallons to put in tomorrow. Once eveything was installed I started it up and worked the air out of loader lines. I drove out of the garage and started moving some 2 to 3' snowdrifts which have accumulated in the past 3 days. Worked great!
I included some pics of studs, alignment tool that worked for me and a picture of my loader hydraulic valve which needs a new detent, balls, springs. Anybody knw where to get these parts? New holland sells valves for like $1200. Stupid to spend that kind of money for a float on the loader, when I want it to float I'll put a bungee cord on the handle to hold it in place. Thanks to all that responded. Good luck with your tractor problems and thanks to the internet for all the information.

 

[nanuk]

....That pilot bearing was a bugger to get out. No pullers I had would fit that tiny hole. I finally torched .. a screw driver to a 90 and attached a slider hammer with a vice grip attached. About 30 minutes later it poped out.

for a pilot bearing in a blind hole, take a grease gun and fill it full of grease behind the bearing.
then take a dowel/rod/whatever fits (I used a drill bit shank) and use a 2x4 and pound the rod into the grease through the hole... when the bearing moves a bit, fill in more grease, pound some more etc...

you'll eventually hydraulically push the bearing out.

works far easier to do than to describe

 

[1900freddy]

for a pilot bearing in a blind hole, take a grease gun and fill it full of grease behind the bearing.
then take a dowel/rod/whatever fits (I used a drill bit shank) and use a 2x4 and pound the rod into the grease through the hole... when the bearing moves a bit, fill in more grease, pound some more etc...

you'll eventually hydraulically push the bearing out.

works far easier to do than to describe

I sure hope many people read your post for it sure would have been alot easier to get that pilot bearing to pop out.

Regards,
David