m1garand762
Gold Member
Put in an 8 volt battery and call it go. You can get an 8 volt battery tender and call it a day. I have had the same tsc 8 volt battery for 5 years on one of my farmalls
1938 Oliver change to 8 volt
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DJ54
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I'd have to ask what gauge your battery cables are. If they aren't at least 1/0 gauge and are the 4 gauge automotive size that may be the problem. Where I buy mine, for the price difference, I get the 2/0 gauge. You'd think there was a 12V battery hooked to it even though they are just 4 cylinders, and not 6 like yours.
In case you or others are interested, here is a link to where I get mine. These are very nice flexible Marine grade cables. You can choose color of sheath, ends, etc. They are in Louisville, KY. and ship priority mail (very reasonable) and I usually get the in 3 days. 2/0 Gauge Battery Cables - Custom Made 00 AWG Battery Cables
In case you or others are interested, here is a link to where I get mine. These are very nice flexible Marine grade cables. You can choose color of sheath, ends, etc. They are in Louisville, KY. and ship priority mail (very reasonable) and I usually get the in 3 days. 2/0 Gauge Battery Cables - Custom Made 00 AWG Battery Cables
There is 8 volt batteries and have been for a lot of years. our local Tractor supply sell them. Nothing is needed to put one on a 6 volt tractor. the generator will work just like it should. I have on on a farmall H. Then I figured out My cables were maade for a 12 volt system and when I changed them to install the heavier cables needed for 6 volt it worked a lot better.
rScotty
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I like a repair that is also an upgrade, has options, and I especially like understanding the "why" it is done that way. Thanks, all.
rScotty
rScotty
JDAOWNER
Silver Member
I JUST PUT A 12V BATTERY IN MY 6V JD A. IF IT STARTS EASILY, IT WILL LAST ALONG TIME. THE 12 WILL REALLY SPIN THE 6V STARTER. NEVER HAD ANY TROUBLE.
rScotty
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How does the tractor charge it? Did you change anything else besides the battery?
rScotty
rScotty
Dennis59
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ultrarunner
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With the Model A Ford's no changes other than adjusting the third brush in the generator for more output.
In a Model A no tools required to slide the third brush up or down.
Some have gone 12volt changing to 12 volt generator/alternator as well as light bulbs...
The weak link is the starter Bendix spring... it takes more force getting slammed by 12 volts to the starter...
mhiplus
New member
Why don’t you try to add a second 6 volt battery hooked in parallel like diesel pickups use 12 volt parallel batteries. Would save a lot if you can add another battery hold down.
rScotty
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Do you know if this generator uses the 3 brush type of voltage regulation? The 3 brush system wasn't the most common - or most efficient generator design. I don't know myself; maybe the old Olivers also used that type generator.
rScotty
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Adding a second 6 volt would add more amp hours to the system so that it would crank longer.... but it wouldn't help it crank any faster than a single 6 volt battery.
ultrarunner
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I don't and early Ford's sometimes have unique attributes.
The original regulator was nothing more than a Cutout that let generator current flow to the battery only if it was higher than battery voltage...
If it was not there the generator would try to "Motor" and drain the battery.
I swap out a lot of mechanical innards of Cutouts with a 35 Amp Diode concealed inside the old Cutout.
Little Red Tractor
Platinum Member
The 1953 Farmall Cub (in my picture) was a bear to start. I had both starter and generator rebuilt--by a pro--and that helped some. Adding an 8 volt battery took care of the problems for as long as I kept it.
Since it sounds like you're looking to keep the tractor looking like an original, the member who gave you all the advice about the cleaning/polishing of connections probably gave you a TON of great information. My shop teacher, in about 1965 was prone to harp on the need for good mechanical connections to get good electrical connections.
If you add the 8 volt battery, you should be able to adjust the regulator to get 8-9 volts. It should not cook anything off.
BTW, my dad raised a farmily of 4 kids by repairing farm equipment. He put a lot of 8 volt battery into older, 6 volt systems and never cooked one or caused greater problems.
Since it sounds like you're looking to keep the tractor looking like an original, the member who gave you all the advice about the cleaning/polishing of connections probably gave you a TON of great information. My shop teacher, in about 1965 was prone to harp on the need for good mechanical connections to get good electrical connections.
If you add the 8 volt battery, you should be able to adjust the regulator to get 8-9 volts. It should not cook anything off.
BTW, my dad raised a farmily of 4 kids by repairing farm equipment. He put a lot of 8 volt battery into older, 6 volt systems and never cooked one or caused greater problems.
Bentrim
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While some have offered great advise, some indicates no knowledge of OLD equipment. Back in those days Knowledge of electrical systems was minimal.
1. If electric start was on a tractor the starter used either an operator activated starter mounted switch (usually by pushing a pedal or pulling a wire) the other type had a large push button on the dash, often reminded me of the old foot operated headlight dimmer switch. The starter was equipped with an inertia engaged drive, often referred to as the bendix. Later starters were activated by a separately mounted solenoid but were still inertia drive. By late 50's solenoid shift starters became common usage.
2 Generators were often very low output. All were connected or disconnected from the battery by a cutout. Some had output regulated by moving a third brush. Other systems used the light switch to control generator output. The light switch was connected to the field post of the generator. First position, normal or "summer" position the field was grounded thru a resistor on the light switch. Second position winter or limited use position, the switch fully grounds the field for max output from the generator. Third position same as second position, but also turns the lights on.
Yes back in the day 6 volt was what was used, and often as systems aged, wear took its toll starting became more frustrating. Many attempts were presented to "fix" the problem. Starter boosters were one of these, basically it made a starter into a gear reduction starter. There were companies that made different field coils to be installed in the old "weak" starter.
Another adaptation that took root especially with tractor dealers to help the problem was the 8 volt battery. Buy the battery remove 6 volt, install 8 volt, go back to work with an easier starting tractor. Occasionally the generator would need slight adjustment for the higher voltage, often no adjustment needed.
Eventually the voltage regulator replaced the cutout and replaced the three position light switch and eliminated need for the operator to adjust it.
Also be aware most of these systems were usually positive ground.
Some manufactures in the late 40's started using 12 volt systems but still others still used the old 6 volt system.
By the mid 50's most had converted most of their production to the 12 volt system, but there were 6 volt systems still used. Since battery technology was not sufficient to start the higher compression tractor engines often two 6 volt battery were used in series to not only make 12 volt but to greatly increase available amperage, as 12 volt battery amperage was still low.
As for today purist want to retain the originality or keep the as produced appearance of the old iron, often more expensive and more aggravating than throwing in the towel and converting to 12 volt I appreciate this time and effort as nothing destroys the appearance of old iron than a cobbled mount for an alternator hanging off a tractor or batteries hanging off the sides of a tractor because they did not fit in the original location.
Learned from my old iron an my 20 plus years working for a dealer.
If I missed something or need corrected please "do it"
Have a great day!
1. If electric start was on a tractor the starter used either an operator activated starter mounted switch (usually by pushing a pedal or pulling a wire) the other type had a large push button on the dash, often reminded me of the old foot operated headlight dimmer switch. The starter was equipped with an inertia engaged drive, often referred to as the bendix. Later starters were activated by a separately mounted solenoid but were still inertia drive. By late 50's solenoid shift starters became common usage.
2 Generators were often very low output. All were connected or disconnected from the battery by a cutout. Some had output regulated by moving a third brush. Other systems used the light switch to control generator output. The light switch was connected to the field post of the generator. First position, normal or "summer" position the field was grounded thru a resistor on the light switch. Second position winter or limited use position, the switch fully grounds the field for max output from the generator. Third position same as second position, but also turns the lights on.
Yes back in the day 6 volt was what was used, and often as systems aged, wear took its toll starting became more frustrating. Many attempts were presented to "fix" the problem. Starter boosters were one of these, basically it made a starter into a gear reduction starter. There were companies that made different field coils to be installed in the old "weak" starter.
Another adaptation that took root especially with tractor dealers to help the problem was the 8 volt battery. Buy the battery remove 6 volt, install 8 volt, go back to work with an easier starting tractor. Occasionally the generator would need slight adjustment for the higher voltage, often no adjustment needed.
Eventually the voltage regulator replaced the cutout and replaced the three position light switch and eliminated need for the operator to adjust it.
Also be aware most of these systems were usually positive ground.
Some manufactures in the late 40's started using 12 volt systems but still others still used the old 6 volt system.
By the mid 50's most had converted most of their production to the 12 volt system, but there were 6 volt systems still used. Since battery technology was not sufficient to start the higher compression tractor engines often two 6 volt battery were used in series to not only make 12 volt but to greatly increase available amperage, as 12 volt battery amperage was still low.
As for today purist want to retain the originality or keep the as produced appearance of the old iron, often more expensive and more aggravating than throwing in the towel and converting to 12 volt I appreciate this time and effort as nothing destroys the appearance of old iron than a cobbled mount for an alternator hanging off a tractor or batteries hanging off the sides of a tractor because they did not fit in the original location.
Learned from my old iron an my 20 plus years working for a dealer.
If I missed something or need corrected please "do it"
Have a great day!
