1949 Ford 8N

[kvan]

Hi,

Just a quick introduction, my name is Kyle and I just got my first tractor, a 1949 Ford 8n. I included some pictures and I will probably have lots of questions along the way. My first question is when I took off the PTO drive cap about 1/3cup of oil came out, does this mean the PTO seal is shot or is it over filled?

Thanks!

 

[kvan]

Oh and the serial number is 8N247305 off the upper block of the engine

 

[LD1]

Welcome to TBN.

How much do you know about these old 8n's?? Are you familiar or a total rookie??

I have a few questions, suggestions, and tid-bits of info for ya....

First, I believe, based on your serial #, that it is a 1950 and NOT a 1949.

It is obviously a old tractor that does need some attention, but for starters I'll tell you what I like about it.

I like the adjustable 3PH arm that you can reach from the seat. This is a pretty desirable feature. It also has draft control, and appears to have decient rubber. Someone has also converted it to 12v.

Now, the things that need attention, that seal, just keep an eye on it. Because the PTO needed to run for the hydraulics to work. So that PTO could have been left on all the time. And if the tractor was used ALOT, 1/3 cup of oil aint bad. But If you do replace it, it is a quick and easy fix.

You also need to hook the air filter back up. You dont want to suck a bunch of dirt into that carb.

Feel free to ask any questions. But I am curious if it has a sherman (another desirable feature). You didnt give us a pic of the tractor from that side. The sherman will have a "dog-leg" lever that is located on the side roughly between the clutch pedal and starter.

And I didnt see if you mentioned, but I assume this tractor does run??

 

[Soundguy]

i see it has the original pto 1/18 shaft, not a replacement... also see a home made drawbar bracket, as well as a welded manifold.. non of wich are a immediate cause for concern as long as they work.

the pto shaft seal is a 15 minute fix.

if it is overfull, i'd worry more about oil on the brakes vs the pto.. I see the oem oil dipstick for the common sump rear end is gone and something else stuck in there.

with machine off, grab pto shaft and see if it has in / out play or side to side play.

if it has in / out play then it has a possible bad bearing, bad wear ring, slipped or broken circlip, or damaged bearing carrier.. if side to side play, then bad bearing. bad bearings will allow seals to hog out.. pto shafts with in / out play will eventually do 2 things, 1, mushroom the end of the shaft internally and make it hard to remove, 2, walk it out of engagement and eventually damage the pto shaft internal spline, and the sliding dog clutch.

if none of those are an issue and it is just a leaky seal, again.. 15 minute fix, and about 17$ for a new seal and gasket.. drain rear end oil ( 5 gallons - refill with 90wt gl1 / 3 oil, or 80w90 oil meeting the gl4 / 5 / mti spec that states it is yellow metal safe, or any UTF fluid meeting the M2C134 spec. ).. 4 bolts and you snatcht he assy out, rmove rear circlip, tap pto external stub end down on a pice of wood on the ground, bearing carrier and seal fall off the pto shaft and bearing assy, drive old seal out, drive new seal in, ( 2 -5/8 socket makes a great seal driver ), reseat by greasing seal lip and setting pto lone end down on a piece of wood onthe ground, short end with bearing facing up, set bearing carrier and new seal on top, then tap down witht he shaft ontothe wood and the shaft will seat into the seal and carrier.. reinstal circlip, clean flanges up for gasket, slip back in with new gasket, bolt down, add oil.. etc.


soundguy

 

[kvan]

So I am serious rookie when it comes to tractors. I have industrial mechanical experience, but no tractor knowledge. The man I purchased it from gave me the 2 min how to make it go forward and backward lecture and that's where it ends.

Thanks for the advice so far. I tried to move the PTO around but it seemed very solid. If the shaft seal is an easy fix, I might just do it anyways. I am including a picture of the actual PTO output, will this work on new 3 point attachments or are there adapters?

Kyle

 

[whodat526]

So I am serious rookie when it comes to tractors. I have industrial mechanical experience, but no tractor knowledge. The man I purchased it from gave me the 2 min how to make it go forward and backward lecture and that's where it ends.

Thanks for the advice so far. I tried to move the PTO around but it seemed very solid. If the shaft seal is an easy fix, I might just do it anyways. I am including a picture of the actual PTO output, will this work on new 3 point attachments or are there adapters?

Kyle

only way to tell is to messure the end of the pto shaft and see if it is 1 1/8 in or 1 3/8 in but they do make the adapter to go from the little shaft to the big shaft so it will work on all 540 spile equipment

 

[LD1]

only way to tell is to messure the end of the pto shaft and see if it is 1 1/8 in or 1 3/8 in but they do make the adapter to go from the little shaft to the big shaft so it will work on all 540 spile equipment

Correct here:thumbsup:

Another option, while you have it appart, IF it is only the 1-1/8 shaft, you can buy an upgrade shaft that is the 1-3/8 for around $120 and you never have to fool around with adapters. We have broke and twisted off too many adapters on dads 8n to trust them. He upgraded shafts. This was mainly when using the tiller.

 

[trac]

The ID of that pto seal of the 1 1/8" shaft rides on a metal sleeve which is pressed onto the shaft. If their is a groove worn in the sleeve, where the seal rides, a new seal will still leak. I have also seen oil leak between the sleeve and the shaft. A new sleeve is available, but is a shrink fit to the shaft. If the sleeve does not have a groove, I'd replace the seal and bearing, and even the 2 circlips when disturbed. Make sure you add a little RTV on ID of housing for extra sealing when pressing seal into the housing. I like the idea of the 1 3/8" shaft replacement. Well worth the extra money and far less aggravation.

 

[Soundguy]

NO RTV is needed onthe bering carrier.. it has a gasket to seal it's flange to the rear housing.

also.. new style pto shaft seals ride in a different spot than the old ones. so sometimes it is not a problem. seal ring replacement isn't too bad a job, or could even speedi sleave it if you wanted to.. or solder / braze it up and polish down. BTDT all work..

on the adapters.. there is a sheetmetal bushing that only increases the OD, but not the length.. I don't like those. there is a better stub adapter that increases the lenght and OD to that of a standard shaft.. those are much sturdier.

IMHO.. if the wear rin, bearing and seal are bad.. I'd get a new shaft assy.. etc.


soundguy

 

[jonyyuma]

Someone saved you from dragging off the exhaust or buying those tin mufflers for underneith...But do put an air cleaner on the carb, if it hasn't already eaten the piston rings?

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. even if it is only a K&N or a crew-cut sock and zip tie.. get something on the carb intake for sure.

the metal tube and rubber fittings for the oil bath air cleaner are readilly available.

soundguy

 

[jonyyuma]

yep.. even if it is only a K&N or a crew-cut sock and zip tie.. get something on the carb intake for sure.

the metal tube and rubber fittings for the oil bath air cleaner are readilly available.

soundguy

Yes, I cannot believe that you can improve on the oil bath air cleaner that comes on a Ford 8 n. I had wished it had the small precleaner on the hood. One look into the oil tub and neck of the carb will prove the point. I would like to have an oil-bath on my Kubota, as it doen't have a pre-cleaner either. Dirt ruins the inside of a motor, pretty quickly..

 

[Soundguy]

the precleaners for the N are for sale all over so easy to add.

depending on the setup of your kubota, you might be able to get an aftermarket settling cup.

does your unit have an inner and outter filter? if so, it's breathing ok... can also get that filter spray that adds some tack to the filters to help out.

lastly.. anything that can be built.. can be rebuilt... thus you could add on an oil bath after calculating flow needed..


soundguy

 

[kvan]

Another question, is there a PDF manual for the 8n floating around the interweb? The tractor has no indication of which gear is where which would be nice to know.

There is a bottle lid siliconed to the gear shifter to prevent water from going into the GB which should probably be taken care of shortly, but since it works I don't want to take it off until I know what replaces it.

Kyle

 

[Soundguy]

the gear designations and shifter pattern are MOLDED into the metal trans top cover right at the base of the shifter.....

that inverted flower pot you got on there is probably obscuring it.

since the lil rubber boot is only a couple dollar item.. I'd reccomend getting rid of the 6" lid and putting the rubber boot on, and then you could see the gear designations.

I&T fo-4 service manual is about 30$, owners manual about 12$, master parts catalog, about 20$, repop of the oem service manual ( not as good as the I&T ) is about 10$... available widely online or, the service manual at TSC.. etc.

soundguy

 

[kvan]

New question, I was cleaning out the air filter and then it dawned on me, how or where do I put oil in it? and what type of oil do I use?


Kyle

 

[farmersal]

Welcome to TBN.

How much do you know about these old 8n's?? Are you familiar or a total rookie??

I have a few questions, suggestions, and tid-bits of info for ya....

First, I believe, based on your serial #, that it is a 1950 and NOT a 1949.

It is obviously a old tractor that does need some tractor touch up paint, but for starters I'll tell you what I like about it.

I like the adjustable 3PH arm that you can reach from the seat. This is a pretty desirable feature. It also has draft control, and appears to have decient rubber. Someone has also converted it to 12v.

Now, the things that need attention, that seal, just keep an eye on it. Because the PTO needed to run for the hydraulics to work. So that PTO could have been left on all the time. And if the tractor was used ALOT, 1/3 cup of oil aint bad. But If you do replace it, it is a quick and easy fix.

You also need to hook the air filter back up. You dont want to suck a bunch of dirt into that carb.

Feel free to ask any questions. But I am curious if it has a sherman (another desirable feature). You didnt give us a pic of the tractor from that side. The sherman will have a "dog-leg" lever that is located on the side roughly between the clutch pedal and starter.

And I didnt see if you mentioned, but I assume this tractor does run??

I want to re-iterate how important hooking the air filter back up is. I have made that mistake in the past and cleaning carburetors is not fun. at. all.

 

[jonyyuma]

30 wt oil in the oil cup and it has a level mark molded into the side, once you wipe off all the oil and dirt from the outside. Like the top of the transmission, Mine only showed two gears until i kerosened the top cover.?i

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. generically 30wt, or whatever you put in the engine.

in the end.. just about ANY oil would work and be better than nothing if you are low.. even atf, hyd oil.. etc. just regular practice to use the engine oil..

soundguy

 

[mostly_gas]

If you are going to brush hog with it you will need an over-run clutch. I bought an over-run with the 1 3/8 shaft and adapted that way.