1952 8N water leak?

[deerefan]

After planing the 8N head for trueness.You might want to check the headbolts. they are cheap insurance againest pulling one into and stretching, thus another gasket replacement. I went with grade 5 after one of mine felt "soft" on reassembly...It was ready to break..

I will check the ones in place before I do anything. I have heard they can work loose.

 

[Soundguy]

Yea, did a little research last night and I think I was making it more complicated than it needed to be. I am used to more modern engines (OHV, DOHC). My dad went through this engine when he first bought the tractor about 10 years ago and emailed me the tourqe pattern for the headbolts. Now that I know it is easier than I thought, I will pull it down this month and replace the headgasket and check the head and block.

I was wondering why you were so worried about it being a head removal.. it's a 15# slab of cast iron with some water passageds and bolt holes drilled in it essentially.. no oil.. no cam.. no valve train. it's a real easy / fast job. i think the hour I mentioned was an over-exageration.. might do it in half that if none of the studs or bolts give you an issue..

As for modern? ford had an ohv engine out in late 52.. it repalced the N engine we are talking baout.. so the concept of an OHV engine is still 'old' as it is int he same time frame as these flatties.. only head simpler than that N engine head is a lawnmower or air compressor air cooled head..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I will check the ones in place before I do anything. I have heard they can work loose.

biggest problem with the studs or bolts is waisting.

repalce any fasteners if they look less than perfect. gr5 is fine.

also.. keep in mind many holes are thru and wet, and some holes are blind and dry.. don't let water get into the dry blind holes as you can hydraulically crack the block when the fastener tightens down into there. I've seen corners of blocks cracked out like that.

also.. if you snap a bolt off don't panic. pull the hood and gas tank so you can look down onto it to work and go from there.

in many cases they snap even with the head and onc ethe head is off you have a shank to get a stud puller on.. or can lay a nut over the shank and weld to it and remove.. or lastly, drill out and extract.

if a hole in the block becomes stripped.. again.. there are repair methods.. anything from inserts ( not my favorite ), to drilling oversize for a cast iron plug, then drilling the plug for oem hole size and tapping ( my favorite ).

on the dry blind holes.. no thread pucky needed on the head fasteners.. on the wet holes.. use a thread pucky to seal them.. harvey's or gasoila or something similar...

soundguy