1970 2520 loader

Tx Jim · Oct 1, 2017

Ditto what jd110 stated. I'm glad your HD starter corrected slow starting rpm's.

jd110 · Oct 1, 2017

cantbeatadeere said:
Your exactly on track to what I am doing now JD110. I have a second set of side frames with similar extensions to the ones you posted, along with the lower support by the oil pan -- and, this morning I test fitted and drilled the side frames for the bottom support (#14). lifting these dam frames on and off the drill press along with jigging them in place is going to be the end of me!!! . I have removed the front weights and plan on cutting the forward arms on the second set of side frames off and welding them on the 620 loader mounts.......any thoughts on making frame width 1/4" plate steel 3x3 washers to have on the inside of the frame as well ???

Actually the JD48 loader used a version of that. They used a plate approx. 3" wide and maybe 12 or 14' Long with 3 or 4 holes in it that aligned with the holes in the frame. It slid up behind the frame and added a lot of strength when bolted up tight with the mounting frame and tractor frame.

Tx Jim · Oct 2, 2017

Ditto what jd110 stated about JD 48 loader mounting bracket BUT loader mounting points on 48 bracket were a lot closer to side frames IE didn't protrude as far from tractor side frames than the 6000 series loader mounting points.

cantbeatadeere · Oct 3, 2017

Getting closer, all 4 of the hoses that feed the loader are cut to length. I found a power beyond block that my father is picking up today -- install that, then cut the joystick feed lines to length, all that's left is figuring out the extensions going to the front of the tractor. I am going to cringe when cutting my rockshaft cover to fit the scv after installing the power beyond:smiley_aafz: also ordered the closed center plug for the joystick.

Tx Jim · Oct 3, 2017

I think before I altered the rockshaft cover to accept the scv that is further back due to PBY block I'd leave the this RS cover hanging on the wall in the tractor barn or shop.

cantbeatadeere · Oct 7, 2017

O.k. Tx Jim(or anyone else) I installed he power beyond manifold, ran new hoses to the joy stick, hooked the loader back up and for some reason it labors the tractor a lot, it will not idle and when you shut it off it don't "coast" at all. tried it with and without the o/c and c/c plugs. with the oc plug the 3 pt is slow rising and with the cc it works normal. also the in and out lines at the joy stick get hot fast --- ????

jd110 · Oct 7, 2017

It sounds as if you are still having flow through the valve even with the closed center plug. Can you post a picture of the loader valve and the open and closed center plugs? May be there is an oring missing on the closed center plug causing a high pressure leak.

cantbeatadeere · Oct 8, 2017

I will double check the o-ring on the end of the cc plug....3A.M. and can't sleep - this thing has me baffled but looking at the prince rd5000 loader valve cross section I think the tractor psi is greater than the loader valve relief and is bypassing causing the laboring and heat......I will try turning the valve pressure up to see if this works/stops the bypass.

Tx Jim · Oct 8, 2017

I agree fel control valve for closed center hyd system such as your 2520 has needs closed center plug with a good sealing inner seal & relief valve tightened down to 2500 psi or better yet closed all the way. Many hyd valves built for closed center only hyd 's had no built in relief valves.

cantbeatadeere · Oct 8, 2017

WORKS LIKE A CHARM, tightened the joystick relief valve - no heat and engine runs free again-------now for the forward & inner frame supports -- then should be gooooood to go..............:thumbsup: -------------this site is awesome. will post pics when all is done, cleaned and able to use, I just don't dare lift anything yet.