if it is a screw in valve you can usually rebuild them with 2 orings. if it is a lever vlave, just replace it.
If you don't feel like prying the stop rivit out of the old valve and putting an oring on the stem and then tapping hte small hole for a machine screw to provide a stop for the stem.. then replace the screw on unit too.
Many of us fix them as the price is 25-60$ vs 25 cents of orings.
I&T fo-20 shop manual covers general maint and service. if you want to rebuild the tranny or engine.. i'd get the more spendy ford shop manual. for all else.. the fo-20 suffices if you are slightly handy with a wrench.
there are owners manuals online.. places like
N Tractor Club
Many parts can be had from sites like
301 Moved Permanently
and many many parts are available thru a CNH dealer.
sparex, A&I, tisco are the leading aftermarket makes of most of the parts.
ignition parts can be had at napa and similar stores.
Side-Mount Distributor:
Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128
6 volt coil IC7 ($48)
6 volt coil IC7SB ($23)
12 volt coil IC14SB ( 16$ )
if it uses a spin on oil filter.. then motorcraft fl1-a fram ph8a, supertech st8anapa 1452 or 1515 etc.. or crosses will all fit. if it uses the canister oil fliter, napa 1004 of fran ch6pl fram or whatever crosses to them.
I reccomend 15w40 C/S rated oil for the engine, and UTF fluid for the trans, hyds and rear end ( all seperate sumps...) though you could put 80w90 gl5 gear oil in trans and rear end and hydraulic fluid iso32 or utf in the hyds. Many tiems the seal inside between hyds and rear end leaks and hydro and rear fluid mix.. which is why i don't like plain iso type hyd oils, and do favor utf in all sumps.
if any sumps are wet.. flush with diesel, atf and alcohol mix.
