1981 John Deere 2040 with over heating problem

[Oletrapper]

I have a 1981 2040 JD which has a problem with the hydrolic fluid over heating. The power steering unit below the steering wheel gets so hot you can not touch it without getting burned. I have changed the fluid and replaced the filter and cleaned the screen. I have cleaned the radiator. There is no hydrolic cooler unit on this tractor. Just a large canister in front of the radiator at the top. This tractor was purchased new and only has 1600 hours on it. Any suggestions?

 

[Oletrapper]

Guess I must be the only one that has had this problem. Lots of readers though. Thanks anyway.

 

[Soundguy]

I have a 2240.. but have not seen this problem.

In general super heated oil usually means something is running against relief.. that's one of the faster ways to heat oil in a hyd system.. Might also check for obstructions.. and for the heck of it.. observe flow into a bucket, and use a gauge to check pressure lock to lock.

soundguy

 

[RWolf]

Soundguy has a good point. Place a gauge inline with the output of the pump. If you have pressure then something is obstructing the lines. This question also might be better answered in the hydraulic forum.

good luck.

 

[Oletrapper]

Soundguy has a good point. Place a gauge inline with the output of the pump. If you have pressure then something is obstructing the lines. This question also might be better answered in the hydraulic forum.

good luck.

Thanks RWolf, Didn't know there was a hydrolic forum but will find it and post over there.

 

[Bird]

Thanks RWolf, Didn't know there was a hydrolic forum but will find it and post over there.

No, we'd rather not have the same question posted in multiple forums because it leads to someone replying to one of them, then later seeing the other one without his reply and thinking something is wrong with TBN's computer or that the moderators have removed something for no reason. So since you've already posted the question in the other forum, I'll remove that one so the question and all replies stay together.

Now back to the question . . . exactly what temperature does it reach? You know 100 degrees above ambient temperature is normal. And most of the time in my part of the country, especially right now, that's plenty hot to burn your hand, but not hot enough to harm the tractor.

 

[kennyd]

As I posted in the other thread before it was removed (Where this should be moved to Bird):

If the fluid is overheating without working the tractor hard, then it sounds like the relief valve may be bad or there is another restriction like Soundguy said. Possible a hose or tube has gotten pinched or is deteriorating on the inside. Unfortunately, I do not know where the relief valve is on your machine though...

 

[Bird]

OK, I'll move the whole thread from the general Owning/Operating forum to the Hydraulics forum.

 

[true temper]

The problem is the orings are bad in your steering valve. If I remember right the steering whel shaft goes through a spool that is about 2" or so in dia. This spool presses in the steering colom, with grooves in the steering colom casting. There are tiny grooves in the colom with o ring and backup rings to seal spool. These orings have failed, causing a high pressure leak, thus building heat.

 

[Oletrapper]

The problem is the orings are bad in your steering valve. If I remember right the steering whel shaft goes through a spool that is about 2" or so in dia. This spool presses in the steering colom, with grooves in the steering colom casting. There are tiny grooves in the colom with o ring and backup rings to seal spool. These orings have failed, causing a high pressure leak, thus building heat.

Thanks Bird. Never thought about multiple posts. Anyway, I concur that the problem is more than likely in the steering column. I had it rebuilt last year and it just did not act right after I put back on. When it warms up (not yet hot) it tends to steer to the right. A good comparison would be like the torque on an outboard motor. If you let go of the tiller it wants to steer to one side. Guess I will remove it once again. Will try to repair myself this time. At least I will know it will be done right. Ordered a tech manual yesterday and will probably have to order some special tools to get into the thing but that's okay. Thanks guys for all the help. Will let you all know how things turn out. OT

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Closed center system. Pump only works when there's a demand. Excessive heat usually means pump is pumping constantly.

Internal leak..... As mentioned probably is the steering. Also, remove the hydraulic oil filler cap (at rear of tractor) shine a flashlight in there while it's running. You MAY see an oil mist blowing around. If so, lift cylinder is leaking. Fairly common issue on 2X40 series.

 

[junkergeorge1]

open or closed system ? had a ten twenty doing the same thing. is your front pump a gear or rotary pump?

 

[Tx Jim]

junkergeorge1 :welcome: to TBN
You might get better response to your question if you had started your own thread. 1020 has closed center hyd. Is radiator clean? with engine running,3 pt raised look in hyd filler hole for dripping(spraying) oil which would indicate leaking 3 pt control valve seals. Next cap power steering supply line on RH and operate fora while. Does tractor have a FEL installed on it?

 

[junkergeorge1]

THIS 1020 HAD OPEN CENTER GEAR PUMP, PRIORITY VALVE UNDER PLATFORM WAS THE PROBLEM. IM NOT TRYING TO FIX MY 1020, I WAS REPLING TO A FELLA WITH A 2040 WITH SOMETHING IN RELIEF HEATING THE OIL

 

[Tx Jim]

George
Sorry but I disagree with you as all 1020's were closed center hyd's. Granted earlier 1020's had open center steering with a gear pump mounted to RH frt of engine,a gear trans pump that oiled trans then supplied oil to frt CC pump but 3 pt hitch and all other hyd functions were closed center. Photo of CC pump below. I sold 1020's when they were new plus served as a JD dealer service manager for over 10 yrs so I'm fairly well versed on a model 1020. JD did build some other 3 cyl utility tractors for N American sales that were open center(820,830 & early 2040)
Have a nice day,Jim

 

[kennyd]

IM NOT TRYING TO FIX MY 1020, I WAS REPLING TO A FELLA WITH A 2040 WITH SOMETHING IN RELIEF HEATING THE OIL

And that post is from 2008 George. This whole thread is that old, you dug it up from the grave

 

[junkergeorge1]

No, you cant burst my bubble, been humbled many a time, the 1020 I was working on was a very early one that was using up components from the 820 utility line built in Germany, as my parts man reminded me Deere did this in many model year switches. He does have a parts referral for it in his computer which we searched 10 minutes to find. yeh steering was open center from a piggy backed pump, front half operated brakes and 3 point I believe with a brake priority valve under the right platform. Glad they got away from this. problem turned out to be a weak relief spring in that particular valve heating the oil,.boy, 2008 seems like long ago. have a good day anyhow!

 

[Tx Jim]

SORRY George but the bursted bubble is 1020 utility's with closed center hyd's were according to Tractordata & other sources built 3 yrs before 820 utility's with open center hyd's. TRY AGAIN and you have a good day anyhow!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Jbarr1265]

The problem is the orings are bad in your steering valve. If I remember right the steering whel shaft goes through a spool that is about 2" or so in dia. This spool presses in the steering colom, with grooves in the steering colom casting. There are tiny grooves in the colom with o ring and backup rings to seal spool. These orings have failed, causing a high pressure leak, thus building heat.

Looks like I have the same problem, would it be possible to repair this without removing the entire column?
Thx

 

[leonz]

Please keep in mind that the steering valves spool clearances have become worn
after all this time and the machined surfaces will have worn and replacing the o-rings
just does not solve the problem.