1981 Taishan T-50

[skipp44]

The cast emblem on the left side is a circle with a w and a big T going through both. (sort of)
Mark at Tytan said he was pretty sure it was a old 504 engine, but was not sure what the new engine equal is.

 

[skipp44]

Being new here, I'm now sure if I should start a new thread or continue with the existing problem that I need parts for.
Right now I need a fuel injector pump or rebuild. But I can't figure out the real problem.....High Oil Temperature! It has Good oil pressure, Good water temperature, Good water flow through radiator, and it takes a couple hours on a hot day to creap up above normal.

 

[Bob Rooks]

How do you know your oil temp is high? Oil temp gauge? What is your oil temp, and what oil are you using? What is your "good" coolant temp and oil pressure specifically? Temperature creep is usually due to one of several things, or a combination thereof.

1) Radiator core not allowing proper air flow - blow out core with compressed air from engine side. Check by shining a light through it. Some people, including myself, install furnace filter media in front of the radiator to help prevent clogging. Change as required.

2) Dirty cooling system. A thorough chemical flush, twice (wash, rinse, repeat).

3) Faulty thermostat. Not opening fully.

4) Loose fan belt.

5) Coolant pump impeller eroded causing cavitation due to improper coolant. Air in coolant creates pockets around cylinder liners. Install a coolant recovery system and keep the radiator full of the proper coolant. DO NOT USE PLAIN WATER.

6) Early injector timing / clogged injectors.

7) Dirty air cleaner. Black exhaust smoke.

8) Engine lugging (overloading). Defined as the engine's inability to accelerate under load.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Hey Skipp, that detailed info is necessary to help you isolate your issues and alleviate as much guesswork and wives tales as possible.

 

[skipp44]

Not leaving you bob! Making hay in 95 degs..... half dead.
This has been going on a couple years now. So I have addressed many of your points. It has a oil temp, water temp, and oil pressure gauge. 15w40 winter 20w50 summer ( southern Virginia)

1) Radiator core is kept clean, I use a piece of 1/2 in. copper pipe with 1mm holes drilled to jet spray at 90 deg. attached to a water hose. Slides right in between engine and fan, also great for cleaning all the other nooks and crannies on all the equipment and farm for that matter.

2)Clean and Full flow through system ( see other points)

3)Tried a couple avalable ones that fit and now no thermostat in it.

4) nope

5)Had pump rebuilt by a good shop when this first started. Tried 100% coolant through plain water, no difference so now back at jug reccomended %.
The cooling system seems to be working fine, can see full pipe flow coming into the radiator, and even when hot you can still put your finger in the coolant ( not very long) but it won't scald you.
The actual temperatures on the gauges I'm not sure, they are old and hard to read, but have always worked fine using the middle of the gauge as "normal operating" measurement.
The "lugging" or when she seems to working to hard is when the oil temperature gauge is getting over to the 3/4 side of the gauge. The oil pressure stays in the middle? I thought when the oil heats up it thins and you would have higher pressure. LOL when it is idling hot you can put your finger in the radiator but you don't want to do it from the left side because that puts you near the hot injector pump area!!

I have the side ports off and taking out the oil pump now, I may as well take off the head and check for a clog in the block. If I can't find parts like a fuel injector or oil pump for it, whats the difference not being able to find a head gasket?

Got to go! NEED another beer and SLEEP!

 

[piper184]

Is the oil temperature gauge mechanical or electrical?
Have you been able to confirm the accuracy of the gauge?
Since the engine seems to be functioning just fine it leaves the gauge as suspect although I know of no failure modes that would cause your symptoms without seeing other indications of error.
Perhaps if you have an infrared thermometer (temp gun) you could temp the outside of the oil pan at various gauge readings and see if the oil temp is really changing or if it is just the reading that changes. This won't be 100% accurate but it may provide some more clues about what is going on.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I presume that your temp gauges read in centigrade (C°) and pressure gauges read in kilopascal (kPa). These can easily be converted to Fahrenheit and PSI. Anyway, I see your problem(s).

1) No thermostat. Coolant doesn't spend enough time in residence in the radiator core to transfer heat efficiently, and eventually becomes overwhelmed. Shooting delta T's with a temp gun will prove this. Post a pic of your original thermostat with measurements and I'll try to match it. You REALLY do need one. Seen this scenario many times.

2) Lugging. Exacerbates #1. Yeah, that's asking for it. Just don't do it. Select a lower gear ratio.

You're running different viscosity oils summer and winter. The engine must be really tired to do that. Assuming that you are using a quality motor oil that at least meets API CH-4 standards, it's good for around 220°F before the viscosity begins to drop, and you lose oil pressure. So, if your oil pressure isn't dropping, your oil isn't too hot.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Problem solved!

 

[skipp44]

Nope! Tractor in boxes. Fall is very busy on the farm and when we try to get the pay check to pay for the tractor parts and taxes.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Nope! Tractor in boxes.

Usually not a good sign. What happened?