1986 case 255 tractor won't start

[blueriver]

From front of motor back 525 520 530
gas rag made it seem like it wanted to start.

oiled cyl. With some 30 wgt. with glow plugs out retested 550 525 550

So compression is good didn't check valve adjustments but they should be close.

Keep using the gas rag .... may take a few trys ... just don't let it get sucked in.

 

[Cpjlube]

Is there any evidence of previous work the the engine? Shiny spots on bolts, bathroom caulk used as a valve cover gasket. You know.... Bubba tracks. This may provide you a clue if someone has tinkered with the engine. If I saw any signs of previous "work" then I might pull the valve cover and check real quick. The fact that you say compression is good says this isn't an issue but might be worth a glance.
The solenoid on the injector pump might be the shutoff solenoid, make sure the shut off lever isn't closed.
Get a manual and go through the bleeding procedure again. Make sure there is good flow to the injector pump.
Check for a clogged screen in the bottom of the tank and that the filter bowl is sealed tight.

 

[olllotj]

We have one and there's a few safety things to starting it.Range selector has to be in neutral, pto off, and out of gear. There's a red kill lever on the dash that has to be pushed in. Don't push in the clutch when cranking. Ours likes glow plug when engine is cool.

 

[jimmysisson]

Don't push clutch while cranking? That's a new one.
Jim

 

[Cpjlube]

Don't push clutch while cranking? That's a new one. Jim

If the range selector is in neutral, technically you wouldn't have to disengage the clutch on a gear tractor. The 255 gear tractor does not have a safety on the clutch it is on the range selector, which must be in neutral.
I agree with the previous poster. Get the glow plugs operating. You might try a jumper from the battery to the glow plug contacts. Give them about 20-30 seconds and see if the motor tries to start.
The harness has been a weakness on my 254. The ignition contacts tend to corrode, the glow plug wiring has fallen apart. May have to make a simple starting circuit. If you unplug the safety solenoid on the injector pump this w

 

[Joel at CDI]

My guess is one or more stuck plungers in the injection pump which is then sticking the rack in the shutoff position. If it has truly been 2 years since it 'ran when he parked it' that is more than enough time for it to gum up. Modern fuels don't take long to shellac up and make things stick. Is there a small square/rectangular access cover on the side of the block right below the injection pump? If you pull it off you can see the linkage connecting to the rack. With the shut off solenoid energized out of the way the rack should move side to side with little effort. If it doesn't move don't force it, the pump will need to come apart and be cleaned up.

As far as not starting on ether, I've had some engines that just don't even with good compression and valves properly adjusted. It would be ideal to hear it run before spending money on the pump, but it just may not happen. Your compression numbers look great so it's a fair guess that the engine is in good shape.

 

[CalG]

If the Case set up is anything like the K4F on the Hurlimann, there is a solenoid fuel shut off. Unless that get's opened up (and it might be stuck closed) the engine won't get fuel.

Check for that shut off valve and figure out if it's opening or not before messing with the fuel pump. For that matter, is the lift pump doing anything?


Why it won't start on ether is a mystery with those compression numbers.