1993 Ford 3930 clutch question

/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #1  

LondonDave

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Messages
72
Location
Melbourne, Ontario Canada
Tractor
John Deere 5410 MFWD, Case IH 5230 MFWD
The clutch on my 93 Ford 3930 is to the point where the pedal is almost all the way to the top before it engages. It doesn't seem like it's slipping but I haven't really tried pulling anything that would cause it to. What I have noticed is when I'm starting out in reverse high range it seems to struggle a little and almost stall the engine. Is my clutch shot or almost shot or is there any adjustments that can be made?

Thanks

Dave
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #2  
The clutch on my 93 Ford 3930 is to the point where the pedal is almost all the way to the top before it engages. It doesn't seem like it's slipping but I haven't really tried pulling anything that would cause it to. What I have noticed is when I'm starting out in reverse high range it seems to struggle a little and almost stall the engine. Is my clutch shot or almost shot or is there any adjustments that can be made?

Thanks




Dave
Does your 3930 have a loader?
How many total hours on the tractor?
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #3  
Dave,

Clarify a couple things. The clutch pedal has the proper amount of freeplay?? If so, then your clutch is about gone. If not, adjust the pdeal freeplay and then tell us how the pedal feels in regards to where it engages the clutch.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Dave,

Clarify a couple things. The clutch pedal has the proper amount of freeplay?? If so, then your clutch is about gone. If not, adjust the pdeal freeplay and then tell us how the pedal feels in regards to where it engages the clutch.

I believe the free play is adjusted to it's max. I need it to engage sooner when it comes off the floor board and I can't adjust it to make that happen.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #6  
I believe the free play is adjusted to it's max. I need it to engage sooner when it comes off the floor board and I can't adjust it to make that happen.

Free play adjusted to the max. Are you saying there is no more adjustment on the linkage to gain freeplay?? Are you saying you have no freeplay at the pedal???
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Free play adjusted to the max. Are you saying there is no more adjustment on the linkage to gain freeplay?? Are you saying you have no freeplay at the pedal???

I'd have to look at it again. I think I have too much free play. Instead of the clutch engaging 1.5-2" off the floor board it's not engaging until all the way to the top. I could add more free play which I don't want but I can't adjust it to have less....if that makes sense. I can't turn the linkage out anymore to take free play away but I could tighten it in which would give me more free play....I think. Maybe I've got it all wrong.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #10  
You have a new clutch in your future.


Out of curiosity, I wonder if at 3500 hours that is the original clutch?
On a tractor with a loader, I would think not possible.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Out of curiosity, I wonder if at 3500 hours that is the original clutch?
On a tractor with a loader, I would think not possible.

I've only had the tractor for a couple of years and have only put about 100 hours on it. I know I'm bad for riding the clutch a bit to control the speed. I adjusted the free play last year when I was getting a bit of a clutch smell. Here I thought it was worn out prematurely but from what you're saying it would be surprising if it was still the original clutch?
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #12  
Here's a funny one: My old Ford started making an awful racket when depressing the clutch at 4900 hours. I was certain it was the throwout bearing. Ordered new disc and bearing. Prepared to split the machine, then found that the source of the noise was the starter- still engaged due to a weak spring in the ignition switch. No clue why it only made the "screamin demon" noise when depressing clutch.

edit: 4900 hours and my clutch has never been touched.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #13  
Here's a funny one: My old Ford started making an awful racket when depressing the clutch at 4900 hours. I was certain it was the throwout bearing. Ordered new disc and bearing. Prepared to split the machine, then found that the source of the noise was the starter- still engaged due to a weak spring in the ignition switch. No clue why it only made the "screamin demon" noise when depressing clutch.

edit: 4900 hours and my clutch has never been touched.

Clutch condition is directly related to user technique!
We have no idea of the OP's tractor previous owner (3400 hrs.) clutch technique.
I could probably get at least twice the hours/miles out of a clutch as compared to my wife.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #14  
I partly agree with user technique. I would say an equal contributor is the daily tasks the tractor performs.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I partly agree with user technique. I would say an equal contributor is the daily tasks the tractor performs.

I'm sure I've been a contributing factor. I readily admit to riding the clutch. It's a bad habit I have to get out of.
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #16  
My Ford gets most of the piddly work. It spend a lot of time easing up to something. Can't do that without riding the clutch. Or a chore where the clutch is engaged/disengaged repeatedly within 5 seconds or less of each other. The clutch foot tends to stay on the pedal.....
 
/ 1993 Ford 3930 clutch question #17  
I partly agree with user technique. I would say an equal contributor is the daily tasks the tractor performs.

You wouldn't believe what I (and everyone else who borrowed it) has done to that tiny Ford over these 3 and half decades. Babied it was not. And due to the fact that I use a 5 foot Hico bush hog with no rear wheel the clutch she gets abused every spring and summer. If you are not really quick with the clutch or the lift position control the blades bury themselves in black, asphalt like, clay and stall the motor.

BTW: Figured out why the starter only dragged when the clutch was depressed even as the faulty ignition switch was stuck in the start position the whole time. Clutch pedal safety switch. Clutch pedal up opens the circuit. Another good reason to not bypass that safety switch.
 

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