2 1/2 x 3/4 solid oak "gunstock" t&g question

Richard · Nov 22, 2003

Re: 2 1/2 x 3/4 solid oak \"gunstock\" t&g question

Update and more quesitons...

untold at beginning of this thread was the fact that we were redoing the master bedroom.

Repainting, fixing cracked drywall (caused by almost 2" drop from logs shrinking), swapped door out for french doors, removed 4' x 7' (approx) arched window that was installed improperly, ripped up all carpet & padding, pulled out all staples used for padding (he used a ton of them), modified both closets and added an extra door to each as well as power and lights to the now 4 closets.

We are soooooooooooooooooon to the point now of putting down this flooring (we kept the origonal stuff)

OK... question time, I bought a Bostich floor stapler and as I understand it, I'll need to put the first 5 rows of flooring down BEFORE I can start using the pneumatic stapler. I have a Porter Cable finish nailer that the floor guy said was perfect...however, I prefer to NOT have a bunch of nail holes showing on the first 5 rows before I can start to hide the nails in the tongue/groove by using the stapler.

What is the best way to nail the first 5 rows down such that I can try to HIDE the nails???

I do not mind using my finish nailer on the FIRST row, as I can put them close to wall and cover that with the 1x6 that we'll put down for base.

Any thoughts??

Thanks
Richard

DocHeb · Nov 22, 2003

Re: 2 1/2 x 3/4 solid oak \"gunstock\" t&g question

The nail holes will not show. Oak has natural rays and fleck grain that will camouflage the nail holes. During final sanding you save the sawdust, mix it with a special lacquer based solvent to make wood-filler that will match exactly with your oak floor (since it is made from your oak floor!). There are face nailers that use the same flooring nails as the angle drivers (unless you're using a stapler). These nails have an advantage since they are rectangular in shape (more like the oak grain) and are barbed to hold the nail in better.

By the way, you'll also have problems with the last five rows you put in, since there won't be any room for the nailer as it hits the wall. Use wedges to snug up the flooring strips against the lower plate stock, then drive home the face nails. Make sure the face nails are coutersunk a good 1/4" so the floor can be sanded in the future and not expose the nail heads.

MossRoad · Nov 22, 2003

Re: 2 1/2 x 3/4 solid oak \"gunstock\" t&g question

If you can hide the staples in the tongue and groove, why can't you hide the finish nails the same way?

Richard · Nov 22, 2003

Re: 2 1/2 x 3/4 solid oak \"gunstock\" t&g question

This is prefinished floor, so there will (hopefully) be no need to sand /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Richard · Nov 22, 2003

Re: 2 1/2 x 3/4 solid oak \"gunstock\" t&g question

Mossroad, I've been wondering abotu toenailing the finish nails through the tongue side. I'm not sure I'm THAT good to do that consitently, though even if I AM, I'll still have the same issue on "the other" side of floor as the tongue gets close enough to wall to prevent use of the finish nailer too.

The dude I talked to at a floor store seemed to suggest to just put finish nails verticle through the finished surface.

Though I dont prefer that, I realize it might be necessary at least on one side of room. (unless people also nail some of these by hand???)

I've not really put any thought into this issue because we had so many other large projects to do in the same room. Now that those are done (save for painting), it's starting to sink in to me that I got to figure this out.

Richard