20' Trailer - 7000 or 10,000#?

[meburdick]

I have pretty much decided on a PJ trailer. The weight difference is about 300#. I got the tractor weight from a spreadsheet on the JD web site - includes tractor, loaded tires (calcium solution, so mine will be a little different), front loader and brush hog with iMatch. I need to double check the towing capacity with a WDH.

Standard tires are 15" with an option to upgrade to 16". It has stake pockets with removable side rails. The dealer will not sell a dual axle trailer without brakes on each axle. He thinks it is WV law, but even if it is not, he won't sell it. I also do not need to worry about a CDL in WV as long as my total weight is below 26k or I have air brakes.

I'm going with slide in ramps. The only other decision is whether or not to get a dove tail. I've read all the pros and cons. The only reason I am considering it if the lack of clearance with the 62D MMM. I probably won't haul the MMM often, but if I don't plan on it...

Thanks for all the input. The last thing I want to check is to see if it makes a difference with insurance, and I can't do that on a weekend.

Sounds like your weight estimates may be a little on the "light" side, then. Tractor is 1800, FEL is about 250, bucket is 200 (generalizing here), and the brush hog could be as high as 500 (depends on which one you have). That's 2750 and doesn't account for the loaded tires or the MMM, so your total weight might be closer to 3500 with everything.

Something you need to think about with the dovetail is the approach angle for loading. WITH the dovetail your ramps are length 'x' and provide a certain approach angle for loading (and a specific angle for the crossover angle from the ramps to the deck). If you get a flat deck, and the ramps are the same length, your approach and crossover angles will be higher, making it a little more tricky to load with the mowing deck on. I have an 18' trailer and it works great for me (16' + 2' dovetail), but I don't have any rear implements. For you, with a 20', I feel that the dovetail would work fine for supporting the equipment, allowing for some fore-aft movement of the cargo for proper "balancing", and will give you the best loading angles. This will translate for other items you may want to haul in the future, especially sedans with low ground clearance.

Brakes on both axles in a trailer that size SHOULD be mandatory (IMHO) in all states. I have that setup and am quite impressed at how well my truck stops even with the tractor loaded. A good brake controller (I have a Tekonsha P3) will be invaluable to you.

 

[meburdick]

It was my assumption on the 16" tires, but the OP does not inicate 15" or 16" tires. the trailers in my area with 10k rating have 16" load range E. I have never seen one with 15" tires in the 10 k rating. Why would a 15" load range D be advantagous over the 16" load range E? The 16" is rated heavier and gives more tire for the money. Can be bought at pretty much any local Walmart at night if you have a blow out. Both the tires seem to run in the same price range from 100-150.00 each from a a internet search. I can go to my local trailer dealer and buy the 16" rim/tire combo for 140.00. A 5000-5,200 lb axle should be the 6 lug bolt pattern and both size tires should be an option

15" and 16" tires are available pretty much anywhere... Load Range D isn't advantageous over E (wasn't trying to imply that it was) on a 10k trailer if you're hauling at the max weight. If you're hauling at anything less, you *may* get a little smoother of a ride from the D tires. Ds are rated for 2540 each, so four of them will carry 10160 which is over the rating of the trailer. If you tow heavy, or tow at over 55MPH, the E tires will be better.

 

[meburdick]

One other thing... With regard to insurance... It will make a difference. The value of the trailer is greater, and the liability exposure by being able to carry more weight is greater. However, the difference should be comparatively small.

 

[Fi-Q]

If it was me, i would go for the 10k. And even if it would be a few extra $$ I would want the 16 in tire. But thats just me.

 

[jeffsw6]

I'm going with slide in ramps. The only other decision is whether or not to get a dove tail.

One more thing you may think about is fold-down jacks at the rear. This is helpful when loading. With fold-down ramps there is often something built onto them, but not with the slide-in ramps.

I am glad I got a dove tail. I don't miss the extra ground clearance on 5200# axles. With different axles I might?

If you're hauling at anything less, you *may* get a little smoother of a ride from the D tires. Ds are rated for 2540 each, so four of them will carry 10160 which is over the rating of the trailer. If you tow heavy, or tow at over 55MPH, the E tires will be better.

I have Ds on my 10K and I air them up to just under 65 PSI. My usual load has the trailer weighing around 7K. The tires seem to be wearing okay so far. I can't imagine the trailer tires affecting the ride of the truck much? I tow with two different trucks, 1/2 ton with LT tires and it is actually a little rougher than my 3/4 ton with E tires. Of course the 3/4 ton rides like a 3/4 ton when it's empty too, which is to say, I wouldn't choose to drive it on vacation.

 

[meburdick]

One more thing you may think about is fold-down jacks at the rear. This is helpful when loading. With fold-down ramps there is often something built onto them, but not with the slide-in ramps.

I am glad I got a dove tail. I don't miss the extra ground clearance on 5200# axles. With different axles I might?


I have Ds on my 10K and I air them up to just under 65 PSI. My usual load has the trailer weighing around 7K. The tires seem to be wearing okay so far. I can't imagine the trailer tires affecting the ride of the truck much? I tow with two different trucks, 1/2 ton with LT tires and it is actually a little rougher than my 3/4 ton with E tires. Of course the 3/4 ton rides like a 3/4 ton when it's empty too, which is to say, I wouldn't choose to drive it on vacation.

Poor wording on my part about ride quality... I was referring to the ride quality of the trailer... I would expect it to be less bouncy when not at full capacity.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Around here you do not see 16" tires till a trailer has 6k axles.

Get the 10k trailer.

Chris

 

[deere5105]

Around here you do not see 16" tires till a trailer has 6k axles.

Get the 10k trailer.

Chris

Same around here in south MS and I agree with trailer size recommended.

 

[koamfps]

My experience tells me you need to buy the bigger trailer. I have a 37 foot deck over and I kick myself daily no big enough. I will probably end up buying the bigger one which I should have done in the first place. Just like you I thought I will never need anything that big or rated that high. Boy was I wrong:2cents:

 

[Raspy]

The 10,000 lb trailer is clearly a better choice for the small price difference.

One BIG difference is that 5,200 lb axles have much bigger brakes than the ones on the 3,500 lb axles. I made a mistake and built a trailer with 3,500 lb axles for my tractor. I've seriously regretted not getting 5,200s

And companies that make trailers don't just swap in bigger axles, they build the whole trailer to carry more weight. So you get more steel and a stronger design.

The 16" wheels are the better choice because tires are much more available in load range E in 16". 15" heavy duty trailer tires have been discussed at length. They are more of a problem than 16s. 16" LT load range E tires are so easy to get and so well proven. The heavy duty 16" trailer tires work fine too. I have a set.

Finally, don't buy a trailer because it might have a better resale value! Buy it for yourself and your needs. If you don't want it, don't buy it. If you do buy it, do so or yourself, not for someone you don't know in a distant future you can't predict. And besides, if you like it, someone else will too. Did I mention you should buy it for yourself?