2003 Farmpro 2420

   / 2003 Farmpro 2420 #1  

DadsFarmpro2420

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Sep 9, 2023
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Tractor
Farmpro 2420
I've inherited my dad's Farmpro 2420. It's been a great little tractor for 5 years. I can pick up 1200lb 4x5 round bails with no issues with the 3pt. The only thing ive had to do to it is rebuilt the hydraulic steering. Today while discing deer plots I lost all instruments. I had it happen once before and replaces the switch but this is different than before. I know I can trace through the entire wiring to find it but are there and fuses or relays that can cause this. I wouldn't worry but I can't tell if she's running hot or lost oil pressure. Thanks in advance
 
   / 2003 Farmpro 2420 #2  
Wiring on those tractors is questionable at best. The instrument display area is where I'd look first for corroded or loose connections. The Fuse block is a cheap chinese joke and it too can have problems. Look for fuses blown first and then look for mice chewed up wires 2nd. We had a 2420 and while it was an ok machine for the 15 or so years we had it, I will say it's just a cheap tractor overall. Sure it can do some work and that's what they are for too. Ours had it's share of weird problems. (Sold now) But it was cheap at $3300 bucks brand new.
 
   / 2003 Farmpro 2420 #3  
More than likely that is a re-badged Jinma 200 series tractor. stevenm5215 is right, the wiring is absolutely horrible. In the fuse box the wire ends have female spade connectors crimped on them and they are "snapped" into the back of the fusebox. The spades of the fuses just push into them, not separate connectors like you would expect.
The terminals are crap, they bend, crack and break from vibration.
The box is crap, it barely holds the fuses
The OEM fuses are crap, they corrode internally

When more than one thing fails at a time look for what they have in common. In this case it is probably the power feed from the fusebox to the panel. Power goes from the battery to the amp meter to the key switch to the fusebox to the panel.

Start with the easy one, check the fuses. There should be labels on the cover. If not pull each one and look. Be careful when you put them back in that the fuse actually goes into the wire terminal and that the terminal does not just push out the back of the box. You could use a test light or multi-meter to test for power at each side of each fuse. More time consuming but you don't have to pull the fuse to test it.

Next likely suspect is the key switch. They are know to fail internally at the contacts. Again a test light or meter will quickly diagnose that.

Least likely but in the middle of everything is the amp meter. If it fails, everything downstream goes dark. You can just short across the terminals to bypass it in place.

The other thing that is likely to be in common for all the instruments is the ground. But some of the sensors are the ground for that indicator so if it was a ground problem some instruments are likely to work. Fuel sender for example.

With the engine off and the key in run, do you get the oil and battery idiot lights or are they dead too?
 

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