fieldman12
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2001
- Messages
- 415
- Location
- OHIO
- Tractor
- 2001 New Holland TN70,2003 John Deere 250 Series II skidsteer,1987 John Deere 2155,2013 John Deere 5055E MFWD,2007 Duramax 4x4 truck, 1973 MF 165,Artic Cat 550 Cougar sled
The key is look the machine over from top to bottom good and don't be afraid to run it before buying. When I go look at a machine first thing I look for is it all there such as sheet metal, muffler, gauges, lights, etc. If it's an open station I inspect the seat for cracks, look at the gauges and the steering wheel emblem for signs of sitting out including paint. Do you notice any noticeable repairs and if so does it look to be repaired correctly. This is a good indication on how good they are on maintenance and if they just hack things to get by. Example would be if a tie rod end has fallen off and they used bailing twine to hold it on to get by. Inspect the tires for how much life is left and if they are a matching set. Go around back of machine and look at lift arms to make sure they are there, not damaged, drawbar is in place, and PTO shaft is not broke off. Looks for slop in steering wheel and inspect front axle for damage and wear. If everything is good at this point then inspect hydraulic oil. Is it full of hydraulic oil, does oil look clean, is there drip on bottom side of tractors. If oil is not full it either indicates, a leak, or the person failed to fill it up all the way. In most cases though its a leak. IS there axles that use gear oil? If so look for leaks and check level. Next go to engine & check engine oil. Is the oil level full and clean? If its low, it either burns it, has a leak or they never filled it up. Again most likely a leak or uses it. Next check coolant. Is it clean and full? If not again a leak or was not filled full. Check Power steering reservoir if it has one. Inspect battery and tray for leaks/damage. Looks for over all leaks, check rims for calcium damage around valve stems. Turn on all lights and turn signals and verify they all work. If the tractor passes your inspection so far now fire it up. Does it start easy? Do gauges function? Does alternator show charging, does it have good oil pressure, any warning lights on, does temp gauge come up to operating temp after using tractor a while? Does PTO work and if equipped with a PTO brake does it stop. Does the hour meter work? If so do the hours appear to reflect the hours of the overall condition of the machine? Do you notice wear on pedals or levers? Now drive it. Make sure brakes work, all gears work and no out of the ordinary noises, does differential lock work? Is there any smoke from engine, does it miss, is engine quick to respond? Get tractor up to operating temperature, check for slop again in steering, and raise hydraulics up and down. Is hydraulics quick to respond? Test parking brake. Apply brakes and start letting out clutch while in gear to see if engine pulls down. If access to PTO implements test hydraulics and PTO that they work under load fine. Last but not least ask questions about history of tractor such as what oils and weights used, when serviced & when he greases machine. If it passes this entire test than most likely you got a good machine. Even then its nice to allow $500 to 1,000 for any small unknowns you may have not catched. Take off money accordingly for any repairs or replacement of parts needed if you are happy with your findings.
