Price Check 2006 Jinma TLB

[RobiBX2230]

So I've seen hydro fluid 5 gallon tubs run from $30 and up - I assume all AW32 is created somewhat "equal"? This would be the first major fluid change I've done on a tractor since my last one had its 200 hour service just before I bought it and I sold it before it needed its 300 hour service (which I had filters and was ready to take on the task but never needed to)... Sarcastically "low maitenance"

 

[greg_g]

I assume all AW32 is created somewhat "equal"?

Don't. AW simply designates an "anti-wear" property, 32 represents the viscosity. And that's just the American (SAE) nomenclature. The rest of the world uses international (ISO) nomenclature. You quite possibly have seen some containers marked ISOxxx, and never even realized what was in them.

Anyway, some folks have mistakenly purchased the first container they found that had an AW32 printed on the label - only to end up with erratic hydraulic motion and oily foam running down the backside of their tractors. They bought AW32 machine oil, which typically has no anti-foam additives like AW32 hydraulic fluid. Avoid the R&O oil as well.

So what you're shopping for is a non-foaming AW32 or ISO32 hydraulic fluid. Same thing, different nomenclature. They've got a viscosity equivalency of 10 weight engine oil, and are suitable for cold to moderate year-round environments. Folks in warm to hot locations might step up to the thicker AW/ISO 46 or 68, which is in the 20W window. AW/ISO100 moves into 30W territory, and so on.

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

So I've seen hydro fluid 5 gallon tubs run from $30 and up - I assume all AW32 is created somewhat "equal"? This would be the first major fluid change I've done on a tractor since my last one had its 200 hour service just before I bought it and I sold it before it needed its 300 hour service (which I had filters and was ready to take on the task but never needed to)... Sarcastically "low maitenance"

Your "hydro fluid" will run the gamut in prices, quality, and specifications. You are correct in your assumption that "all AW32 is created somewhat equal" in that they all originate from a base stock and are blended with formulated additive packages to meet standards set forth by the SAE and ISO for the particular grade. "AW" is a generic term that stands for Anti-Wear and is not specific to hydraulic oil. There can be AW Hydraulic Oil, AW Machine Oil, AW Gear Oil, etc. Currently, I tend to favor the multi-grade AW ISO 32/68 hydraulic oil as it seems to perform very satisfactory in all of my equipment under varying temperature conditions. But then I purchase oil more on the specification than the price alone...

Ground glass, sand, gravel, and dirt are also fluid, but they are not oil :thumbsup::laughing:

 

[boxygen]

I'm really not an idiot but I'm no mechanic so I don't want to get killed with maintenance bills the day I pick it up... I'm used to a low maitenance machine

With all due respect sir, may I ask what that machine is

WHOAH WHOAH WHOAH! Lets slow down. If you arent a mechanic and you are used to a low maintenance machine, THIS CHINESE MACHINE IS NOT FOR YOU! I dont want to start a war here guys but lets help this guy out. You NEED to be able to fix things if you are going to own chinese tractor, sometimes relatively complex things. These things sell at a discount for a reason, its a roll of the dice and an almost guarantee that a lot more things are going to break on this tractor than an equivalent "name brand." I know Im going to get resistance on this from some of you but lets be real. You dont have to go far in this forum to figure out what kind of sticky situation you can find yourself in real quick. Im not trying to brand bash here, but everyone just about everyone on TBN that has a chinese tractor go into it knowing they are going to have to turn a wrench from time to time. There are known problems that some people already have mentioned that you know you will have to fix. Do a little research here on TBN before you go any further. Lookup threads by member "3RRL." He has two chinese tractors. I dont think that anyone would accuse him of abusing his machines, in fact he takes better care of things better than anyone, and he is a brilliant mechanic. But the list of things his has fixed or upgraded is astounding. He is the poster child of what a chinese tractor owner should look like, not someone who describes themself as "not a mechanic." I honestly am just trying to help out the original poster. I wouldnt take that tractor if someone gave it to me for free, but that is almost irrelevant.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I'm really not an idiot but I'm no mechanic so I don't want to get killed with maintenance bills the day I pick it up... I'm used to a low maitenance machine




WHOAH WHOAH WHOAH! Lets slow down. If you arent a mechanic and you are used to a low maintenance machine, THIS CHINESE MACHINE IS NOT FOR YOU.

Do not listen to this guy. I have owned a NH tractor and my family has had Case and JD. My Jinma has been just as tough and trouble free as them with proper set-up. The issue with Chinese tractors is they used to sell them to just anyone. You could order it in a crate and put it together yourself. Many were put together improperly and ran on factory fluids. From the get go the tractors need adjustments like Clutches, Valves, ect. This often does not get done.

I am not saying they are perfect, far from it. They are the toughest tractors in a HP class and by far the best buy.

Chris

 

[Bob Rooks]

WHOAH WHOAH WHOAH! Lets slow down. If you arent a mechanic and you are used to a low maintenance machine, THIS CHINESE MACHINE IS NOT FOR YOU.

Not necessarily. With his last tractor, he changed all of the oils, filters, and coolant. Once. Then he sold it before the next changes were due. Now that is truly low maintenance. Not sure how may times in-between she got "Rode hard and put away wet" though. Accurate maintenance records will show (to a degree) how many times it was greased too.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Im not trying to brand bash here, but everyone just about everyone on TBN that has a chinese tractor go into it knowing they are going to have to turn a wrench from time to time.

I have yet to see a tractor owner wearing a pink Izod polo shirt...:thumbsup:
Some things just don't go together.

I have yet to see a tractor owner that didn't own a wrench or two..., or three
Some things go hand in hand.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Do not listen to this guy. They are the toughest tractors in a HP class and by far the best buy.

I totally agree. The loose cannon doesn't get out much to know there are hundreds of forums dedicated to to the repair and maintenance of the "name brands". Having worked in the field for Caterpillar, I can testify that: "It's not a matter of IF it will break, but WHEN."
THEY ALL BREAK! :laughing::laughing:

 

[boxygen]

I knew this would happen. THe chinese tractor denial/fan club would chime in and tell us how tough and reliable their tractor are. You dont have to take my word for it the info is all right here. Go in the Kubota, Deere, NH, Mahindra owning and operation forum and see what they are talking about - Owning and Operating not fixing . Go in the Chinese forum and see what they are talking about - replacing their starters, alternators, guages, fuel sediment bowls, thermostats, driveshafts, clutches, hydraulic valves after a few hundred hours. There are several things that you can plan on replacing. Everybody knows it and but seems to have selective memory about it. These types of repairs with other brands happens so less frequency that its not even funny. Yes other brands break - but not nearly with the severity and frequency of Chinese tractor. ITS A PROVEN FACT! There are several people on this forum that make their living off the consitent and predictable nature of chinese tractors breaking down and there is no one around but the owner to fix them. I'm glad that you like your tractors, I really am. Don't pretend that these tractors are as trouble free as same size DEERE, Kubota, Kioti or Mahindra. Your Straw Man argument doesnt hold up if you do an ounce of research on this board. I wouldnt have said anything if the OP said that he ISNT A MECHANIC. Please OP, do some reading and you will be able to make a more informed decision and choose whatever you want. Have you ever heard the phrase, get what you pay for? How often is it true?:laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[RobiBX2230]

Okay I see the debate has heated up... I said I am no mechanic but I'm also not an idiot. I've worked on cars etc and feel I'm capable of most things. My main concern isn't necessarily having to fix things but the severity and frequency of such repairs. I went this afternoon to see it in the light and clear weather... Here is my verdict and findings.
The overall machine is in good shape, not as nice as I thought but it's appearance doesn't turn you away. The clutch either needs adjustment or some other repair. When in gear you don't move literally until your foot is just barely on it - I kid not here, I couldn't tell the difference of how far it was pressed in from start of motion to my foot totally off it. The main reason I am NOT GOING TO BUY THIS TRACTOR is manueverability. I put it in gear and moved forward but if I cut the wheel any more than about an 1/8th of a turn the front tires basically dragged on their sidewalls and the tractor went straight. It was to the point that on a 2 way street if I tried it wouldn't have been a 3-point turn, it would have been more like 80. I actually gave up and backed it back to where it was parked, I'd seen enough. I have a single wide driveway and refuse to deal with the nightmare of moving around like that. I think the BH on the back counter weighted the tractor in a way that negatively effected the steering but the BH was a main reason for wanting this tractor. So removing it once and a while isn't really an option since I'd keep it on basically 100% of the time.