2007 Jinma 284 (iron horse) will not start

[Affordable]

You have a head gasket problem for sure, I would also give the head a good look over once its off,You have the Quanchai Engine ? Reguardless we have that head gasket and water pump gasket. Also you do not want to run it without a thermostat

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[chris85]

yes it has the Quanchai Engine, I'm the guy who just ordered the glow plugs, and the water pump a couple month back from you. I see in the string of replies there is mention of a valve adjustment, is this a complicated thing? Are there any other parts you may guess I will need besides the two gaskets and thermostat?

 

[Affordable]

We can give you the valve adjustment specs, those 2- gaskets should take care of it unless you need radiator hoses too

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Rich Waugh]

The valve adjustment is not complicated, it just takes a hour or so of careful work with a wrench and a couple of feeler gauges. The procedure has been detailed a few times on this site elsewhere, you can search for it.

 

[chris85]

Started to pull the head yesterday, was surprised to find a "pudding like" goop covering everything.

 

[Rich Waugh]

No surprise there, that's oil and coolant mixed together and cooked. You're going to need to drain the oil and the coolant from the block and radiator and clean them out before you run the engine again. You can start by pulling the drain bung in the oil sump and flushing lots of diesel fuel through there until it runs clean. That isn't going to get all the oil galleys clean though, so you'll have to do the same thing again after the engine is reassembled and pump it through by cranking the engine a long time with the compression release pulled or the glow plugs or injectors removed. I'd add a bit of alcohol to the diesel to help absorb the water. It may take a few of those flushes to get all the crud out of the oil galleys but it is well worth doing. Take the radiator to a shop to have it boiled out.

 

[chris85]

The gasket had no visible sign of blow-by. I'm going to have a local shop test the head for warping or cracking, couldn't see any by eye.

 

[Bob Rooks]

The gasket had no visible sign of blow-by. I'm going to have a local shop test the head for warping or cracking, couldn't see any by eye.

That emulsion is common to coolant leaking into the lube oil system or poor crankcase ventilation. Check to see that your evacuation system isn't plugged. If you find there isn't any problem with the cylinder head then you may have failed cylinder liner O-ring seals, or worse yet, a cracked liner.

 

[BuilderML]

Chris85,
Did you buy this unit off of craigslist? I was going to say that i would send the head off to a local machine shop "napa" and have them look the head over. Its off nows the time to do it. When i use to work in a garage and we did head gaskets on cars/turck the head would always get sent out. Yet when you go to the dealer they just do what we called a lift and tuck. Just lift the head and replace the gasket and put it back together.

 

[chris85]

Chris85,
Did you buy this unit off of craigslist? I was going to say that i would send the head off to a local machine shop "napa" and have them look the head over. Its off nows the time to do it. When i use to work in a garage and we did head gaskets on cars/turck the head would always get sent out. Yet when you go to the dealer they just do what we called a lift and tuck. Just lift the head and replace the gasket and put it back together.

Yes, found on CL a year ago, from a guy in Salisbury just on the NH line.

There is a shop in Southboro Ma that will inspect and conduct a test on it to see if it is warped or damaged.