2010 DK40 SE Won't Start

[TimbourLarry]

Thanks to all for your responses and I'll try to respond. The tractor is gear drive with ROPS and the solenoid has 3 terminals. Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter but I can get one and probably stumble through some electrical checks although I don't know about relays and contacts. Thanks to all.

 

[k0ua]

Thanks to all for your responses and I'll try to respond. The tractor is gear drive with ROPS and the solenoid has 3 terminals. Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter but I can get one and probably stumble through some electrical checks although I don't know about relays and contacts. Thanks to all.

Let us know when you are ready to proceed. I take it you want to try, correct?.. do you have a friend who is experienced that could work with you.?

 

[Coyote machine]

Warranty IS transferable to a subsequent owner, the OP, through Kioti. If the tractor was originally purchased after August 1st, 2010 here is the coverage in brief: *The engine includes the crankcase, cylinder head, front gear case, valve cover pans, and all parts contained therein. Does NOT include fuel, electrical, cooling, intake, and exhaust components.

From: http://www.kioti.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/2010-2012_KIOTI_Warranty_TRACTOR-ENGLISH.pdf

 

[k0ua]

Well we haven't heard back from him..he was going to buy a multimeter. I have been keeping the schematic up on the PC hoping he would return. Unfortunately he has no electronic experience. We shall see.

 

[TimbourLarry]

Well we haven't heard back from him..he was going to buy a multimeter. I have been keeping the schematic up on the PC hoping he would return. Unfortunately he has no electronic experience. We shall see.

I'm sorry for the delay in responding but my regular job has kept me very busy the last couple of days. Yes, I definitely want to work through the problem and will try to find someone who can assist me. I assume I will need to purchase a multimeter so I will do that today and will be ready to start tomorrow PM. Many thanks to all the helpful people on this board.

 

[k0ua]

This one could work.. It does not have to be a digital. There are advantages/disadvantages to both. I have examples of both, and use both. For the simple troubleshooting we are going to do here, it does not take much.

Gardner Bender 5-Function 12-Range Analog Multimeter-GMT-312 at The Home Depot

 

[ritcheyvs]

Just about any cheapie multimeter (often called a voltmeter) will do the job. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they usually have a couple for under $10. Otherwise just about any meter you find at Walmart, a car parts place, Tractor Supply, Radio Shack, etc will do the job. Make sure it has a DC volts scale greater than 12v. Also an ampere capability (200 milliamp and 10 amp scales are typical) is useful for finding small current leaks. You do want a meter with leads (wires) and preferably leads with alligator clips (clip them on to free up a hand).

The main caution using a meter involves the ampere scale. If you were, for example to connect the meter across the battery in current mode (amp scale) you WILL damage the meter. If you are lucky it will only blow an internal fuse inside the meter. So be sure you are in a Volt scale when you try to measure volts.

 

[k0ua]

For that matter a tail light bulb with 2 alligator clips soldered on it and a paper clip for a probe would work for what we need to test. But I am betting he does not have a soldering iron.

 

[k0ua]

Just about any cheapie multimeter (often called a voltmeter) will do the job. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they usually have a couple for under $10. Otherwise just about any meter you find at Walmart, a car parts place, Tractor Supply, Radio Shack, etc will do the job. Make sure it has a DC volts scale greater than 12v. Also an ampere capability (200 milliamp and 10 amp scales are typical) is useful for finding small current leaks. You do want a meter with leads (wires) and preferably leads with alligator clips (clip them on to free up a hand).

The main caution using a meter involves the ampere scale. If you were, for example to connect the meter across the battery in current mode (amp scale) you WILL damage the meter. If you are lucky it will only blow an internal fuse inside the meter. So be sure you are in a Volt scale when you try to measure volts.

Don't forget checking voltage sources when on the resistance scale.... poof!:shocked: You will let out the smoke, and as you know they run on smoke, once you let out the smoke, well they don't work so well after that.

 

[TimbourLarry]

I purchased an analog multimeter over the weekend which I think meets requirements and I will grab a friend to assist me whenever it is convenient for someone to walk us through the system test/check. thanks again for all who have been so helpful.