2155 Overheating Advice Wanted

[SevenCorners]

All,
I am mowing hay with a 2155 with around 5000hrs. Right now we are down.... This is what is happening, Run the tractor for 10-15 minutes, the temp shoots right up to red, not pegged but pretty close, so we shut it down. We changed the thermostat and cleaned the front of rad added new fluid, same problem. The temp goes up but never in green zone. I felt the hoses and the feel cool not really hot and not under full pressure, I can remove reservoir cap and coolant does not explode. Called dealer and they advised it could be a faulty connection in the instrument cluster. Took the connector off cleaned contacts but still the temp problem.
1. Where are the temp wires coming from on the engine? Can I remove the wires, get a temp gauge from the auto parts store and connect it?
2. How can I tell if engine is overheating or gauge is bad?

Any help is greatly appreciated, I need to get this running quickly!!!!

 

[SevenCorners]

All,
I am mowing hay with a 2155 with around 5000hrs. Right now we are down.... This is what is happening, Run the tractor for 10-15 minutes, the temp shoots right up to red, not pegged but pretty close, so we shut it down. We changed the thermostat and cleaned the front of rad added new fluid, same problem. The temp goes up but never in green zone. I felt the hoses and the feel cool not really hot and not under full pressure, I can remove reservoir cap and coolant does not explode. Called dealer and they advised it could be a faulty connection in the instrument cluster. Took the connector off cleaned contacts but still the temp problem.
1. Where are the temp wires coming from on the engine? Can I remove the wires, get a temp gauge from the auto parts store and connect it?
2. How can I tell if engine is overheating or gauge is bad?

Any help is greatly appreciated, I need to get this running quickly!!!!

 

[gunmaker]

Sounds frustrating, here are a couple of thoughts I would check out.
1-Are you sure the thermostat is installed correctly? You can test it's operation in a pot of boiling water with a cooking thermometer, and visibly see that it opens, fully, at the appropriate temperature.
2-Are the hoses in good condition? Hose can collapse inside and still appear normal outside. If they feel spongy, look swollen, have kinks etc., then maybe they should be replaced.
3-Have any coolant system sealants been used, they can promote or cause blockage in the system.
4-Pressure cap in good working condition, if it has an overflow tank, can you tell that the system is working properly?
5-Was the air bled from the system when refilled? Chance of airlock?
6-Are you able to determine that coolant is flowing through the system? With the cap off, you can see it flow as the thermostat opens and closes, esp when starting out with cold engine. The hoses should start off cool, then get progressively hotter when the thermostat opens, as the engine warms up.
I once had an impeller break off the shaft inside the water pump, everything looked fine, but no flow, cool hoses and overheating were symptoms.
Dad always said make a list and work it through, so here's my 2 cents, maybe something helpful. Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[gunmaker]

Sounds frustrating, here are a couple of thoughts I would check out.
1-Are you sure the thermostat is installed correctly? You can test it's operation in a pot of boiling water with a cooking thermometer, and visibly see that it opens, fully, at the appropriate temperature.
2-Are the hoses in good condition? Hose can collapse inside and still appear normal outside. If they feel spongy, look swollen, have kinks etc., then maybe they should be replaced.
3-Have any coolant system sealants been used, they can promote or cause blockage in the system.
4-Pressure cap in good working condition, if it has an overflow tank, can you tell that the system is working properly?
5-Was the air bled from the system when refilled? Chance of airlock?
6-Are you able to determine that coolant is flowing through the system? With the cap off, you can see it flow as the thermostat opens and closes, esp when starting out with cold engine. The hoses should start off cool, then get progressively hotter when the thermostat opens, as the engine warms up.
I once had an impeller break off the shaft inside the water pump, everything looked fine, but no flow, cool hoses and overheating were symptoms.
Dad always said make a list and work it through, so here's my 2 cents, maybe something helpful. Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[plowrup]

Here's some info from Deere:

Problem:



Dealers sometime report difficulty isolating the cause of engine overheating complaints.



Solution:



It is important to isolate which of the following complaints/conditions is actually taking place:

1. Coolant temperature gauge falsely indicates an overheating condition.

2. Loss of coolant while normal operating temperature is being maintained.

3. Coolant is actually getting too hot.



Once the complaint is defined, more specific checks can then be made using the attached checklist. While some service information bulletins and components mentioned are for specific models, the checklist can Aapply to all cooling systems.



Cooling system troubleshooting checklist



Problem:



Coolant temperature gauge falsely indicates an overheating condition.



Things to check for: reference material:

* misinterpretation of temperature R84-20-12 50 series RC & 8850

gauge position. & operator manual



* faulty temperature sender/switch. Refer to appropriate technical

manual for resistance (ohm)

values at operating

temperature range.

* defective coolant temperature gauge, refer to use of gauge tester

wiring circuit, or ccu. Outlined in appropriate

technical manual.



Problem:



Loss of coolant while normal operating temperature is maintained.



Things to check for: reference material:

* faulty coolant overflow valve. R86-20-9 50 series RC

* external leaks - hose connections, R84-20-11 50 series 4WD

defective radiator cap, pressure

leaks, top tank neck leaks.

* internal leaks - cracked cylinder

head or block, defective head gasket

cracked liners, intercooler leak.

* plugged weep hole on gear driven ENG87-60-12

water pumps.

I believe you are on the right track with the gauge being the problem-

 

[plowrup]

Here's some info from Deere:

Problem:



Dealers sometime report difficulty isolating the cause of engine overheating complaints.



Solution:



It is important to isolate which of the following complaints/conditions is actually taking place:

1. Coolant temperature gauge falsely indicates an overheating condition.

2. Loss of coolant while normal operating temperature is being maintained.

3. Coolant is actually getting too hot.



Once the complaint is defined, more specific checks can then be made using the attached checklist. While some service information bulletins and components mentioned are for specific models, the checklist can Aapply to all cooling systems.



Cooling system troubleshooting checklist



Problem:



Coolant temperature gauge falsely indicates an overheating condition.



Things to check for: reference material:

* misinterpretation of temperature R84-20-12 50 series RC & 8850

gauge position. & operator manual



* faulty temperature sender/switch. Refer to appropriate technical

manual for resistance (ohm)

values at operating

temperature range.

* defective coolant temperature gauge, refer to use of gauge tester

wiring circuit, or ccu. Outlined in appropriate

technical manual.



Problem:



Loss of coolant while normal operating temperature is maintained.



Things to check for: reference material:

* faulty coolant overflow valve. R86-20-9 50 series RC

* external leaks - hose connections, R84-20-11 50 series 4WD

defective radiator cap, pressure

leaks, top tank neck leaks.

* internal leaks - cracked cylinder

head or block, defective head gasket

cracked liners, intercooler leak.

* plugged weep hole on gear driven ENG87-60-12

water pumps.

I believe you are on the right track with the gauge being the problem-