220-volt junction box

Junkman · Dec 29, 2003

A friend of mine sprays all his outside electrical connections with a product called PDRP. Basically it it cosmoline. The product that the government sprays all military items with before being put into storage. I have used it also on outside connections and have never had any problem. I did have a problem with a GFI breaker tripping due to moisture and after I sprayed the connections on the outlet, it never happened again. Good stuff, but expensive to buy because it is usually only sold in 12 can cases...

Inspector507 · Dec 29, 2003

elmerinva,
First of all, have him/her relocate the junction box where it will NOT be submerged. Even if that means he has to pull the line back to a NON-submerged location and mount a junction box there. Yes, the ideal situation would be no box at all, but that's "water over the bridge". UF cable/conductors are suitable for submersion. Any type cable with a W in it is suitable for a wet location as well. But you're very limited when it comes to splices that will withstand submersion in salt water.

chim · Dec 29, 2003

"Aluminum" and "soldered" don't go together. Anyhow, since you said the wire is aluminum, be sure he gets the wire clean and uses antioxidant when he makes the connections. If he goes with butt splices, make sure he uses an anti-oxidant paste and splices that are marked suitable for aluminum. Aluminum can be especially troublesome if done improperly............chim

elmerinva · Dec 30, 2003

Insp507,
I'd love to have the electrician relocate the junction box to a non-submerged place; that would be back at the breaker box. He seems unwilling to replace the UF line from the breaker box to the junction box and beyond with a single continuous line to the boat lift from the breaker box. I guess he believes it's cheaper or more effective to continue to try to make the existing lines using the junction box work.

Chim, the Aluminum only goes from the house to the breaker box. From there it's UF copper line to the dock/junction box.

Junkman, Where can I get some of this PDRP? If it's like cosmoline, it will withstand the salt water submersion.

All, thanks again for the help.

chim · Dec 30, 2003

( Chim, the Aluminum only goes from the house to the breaker box. From there it's UF copper line to the dock/junction box.)

The best thing to do would be to replace the wiring. The only thing more finicky than an aluminum splice is a copper/aluminum splice. If they aren't done properly, you won't even need them to get wet in order for them to fail.

It sounds like replacement may not happen. That being the case, I would definitly use a dual rated butt splice marked "copper/aluminum" or "CU/AL" and plenty of anti-oxidant. The dual rated butt splice will keep the copper and aluminum wires from touching each other...................chim

Junkman · Dec 30, 2003

( Junkman, Where can I get some of this PDRP? If it's like cosmoline, it will withstand the salt water submersion.

)

If there is a Ziebart rustproofing dealer near you, possibly you could buy a pint from them. Duro, the company that makes spray cans of paint also offers it in a spray can as "Do It Yourself" rustproofing, but it is very hard to find in the stores. If not, here is a place to buy it by the case. Product 00710, Heavy Duty Rust Inhibitor cost $2.66 at this web page . I have found all the "Spray-On" products to be of high quality and well worth the money. I believe that Granger might also carry it. That is where I purchased it last.... about 3 years ago...

elmerinva · Dec 30, 2003

Thanks for the reference, Junkman. As usual, informative and helpful.

Chim, the Aluminum-Copper junction is at the breaker box, not at the junction box. Your concern about corrosion of the Al-Cu joint is right on, however, especially in a salt-water environment.

SPIKER · Dec 31, 2003

Hi there:

First off; you said he soldered the connections, that is a NEC no-no. what size wire did he use? for 2 motors 1 hp each on 220 that and figureing that the line lenght form breakers to the dock is how far? 100 feet or more? he should have used at least 8 ga wire for that run assuming over 100 foot lenght.

at the splice he should use "SPLIT BOLTS" and over wrap of self sealing tape and then an over wrap of standard tape inside the junction box, (but with that method it could be dirrect burried.) they do make a self sealing compound that phone companies love, it is a silicone base, and you have a baggy full of it and stick the ends in and tie wrap it closed, squeesing the silicone all the way around all the connections.) this stuff stays sofe liquidy, don't dry to a rubber like caulk does.) forget the name of it.)

anyhow hope that helps.
Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Deerlope · Dec 31, 2003

You are getting some good ideals here and can probably make up a splice that will work fine, but if the problem is on going you might want to rent a ditch witch and use sch. 80 pvc conduit. Glue the joints real good and put direct burial wire in side. No splices, continueous,house to the dock. If the wire ever goes bad it is real easy to pull out and replace. This may help you to be done with the problem once and for all. Have a happy new year.