220V electricity and 110V

   / 220V electricity and 110V #21  
Man, I want one of those. It should really light up the shop.
Yes. ... Roughly equivalent to 4KW of incandescent light.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V
  • Thread Starter
#22  
first off, I am no professional and my advice may be only worth nothing. But.... Typical 220V applications such as pumps and table saws etc are only using three wires. The black leg, the red leg and the ground. The white, neutral, is used to make a 120V circuit with one of the hot legs. This is typically seen in stoves and dryers. They have fours wires including ground. The elements are running 220 volts and all the controls are 120 volt. Think of the neutral wire as 0. The red wire as 120 and the black wire as negative 120. Either the red or black connected to the white is 120 volts difference. The red to the black are 240 volts apart

Basically since you have red white and black it is doable. Probably the simplest way would be to install a sub-panel on the wire. The sub panel will have four spots to connect, one for the ground, one for each hot leg and one for the neutral. You will then be able to put In 120V and 220V breakers. Since this will maybe be off of a generator you should try and balance the load, the 240V pump is pulling equally off of each leg. You then should have your softener connected to one leg and your light to the other. If at all unsure please consult with an electrician, as I would hate for anybody to get hurt from misinterpreting advice they read online.....
An electrician will be coaching me standing and looking over my shoulder. I learn by doing. I am just making sure I have all the parts necessary so I am not paying him $100.oo/hr and drinking my beer while I go chasing parts. The transfer switch is already on the wall, mounted securely. The 220V wire is already hooked to the wall and coming from the inlet box outside with a long pigs tail at the Transfer switch but it terminates right now outside the switch. I would rather waste wire than be too short.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V #23  
I'm no electrician but you might be able to just add a subpanel that is fed by your 27.5 amp circuit which would allow you the flexibility to add a breaker sized for your pump as well as additional breakers for the light and water softener. Make sure you use the right sized wire and breakers and keep the grounds and neutrals separated.
This is exactly my first thought on how you would split off one leg. A sub panel would be safe and easy.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V #25  
This is exactly my first thought on how you would split off one leg. A sub panel would be safe and easy.
The easiest would be to split off from the electrical input line at the pressure switch. Just wire in an outlet strip that has its own protective breaker.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V #26  
Yes. ... Roughly equivalent to 4KW of incandescent light.
Maybe that wouldn't be such a good idea. You would have to wear a welding helmet to go in the shop. :laughing:
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V
  • Thread Starter
#28  
The water softener has its' own transformer to step down from 110 to 24V. It plugs right into a 110V outlet.
 
   / 220V electricity and 110V #30  
I would like to see how the generator , transfer switch, well pump, pressure switch and water softener are physically located and how they are to be located .
We so not soften all our water as some people do. Outside water taps, the line to shed and the kitchen sink drinking water tap are hard water.
 

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